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Monte Coglians / Hohe Warte

dm7226. 09. 2013 19:52:35

Torko's tour in beautiful weather to the king of the Carnics Coglians via ferrata Weg der 26-er was a nice new experience for me on such paths. Start at Tolazzi hut, path 144 to Volaia lake, there right to path 403 to Valentin torl. A bit below saddle top we turn right onto path 427 under Coglians ridge, where mentioned ferrata starts. Entry part of ferrata somewhat difficult as steps very small or none. Continuation much easier. Wonderful views from top. Descent via path 143 to Marinelli hut then down valley (path 143) past Moraret pasture back to Tolazzi hut.

Middle section of via ferrata before ridge crossing

The edge along which the via ferrata runs

Towards Coglians from in front of Tolazzi hut

(+7)

vagabund3. 10. 2013 13:38:48

@dm72 nice that you posted such nice pics, so I can see where I was hiking on Saturday 28.09 velik nasmeh

. It was cloudy and foggy up to 2600m and only sunny at the top so I was alone up there .

Edina13. 08. 2015 17:02:12

To the king of the Carnic Alps yesterday in nice weather and good company. For most it was first sight of it, so we chose southern approach. I would recommend helmet in summit part due to falling rocks caused by careless hikers. More
http://stezeinsledi.blogspot.com/2015/08/monte-coglians-2780m.html

Happy trails nasmeh

(+2)

IgorZlodej27. 12. 2016 09:45:28

Somewhere to cross path hut Marinelli wide channel is dry, continuation mostly snow on marked path, even more left on scree.

Obviously no rain here, snow quite crumbly and opposite to that hard one in Julians.

Trodden to the top, poles.

(+3)

mirank14. 08. 2017 11:45:48

Soon above start (Tolazzi) we overtake bus crew (PD Ajdovščina) and so we were mostly alone until ferrata entry. Cables and steps as before, just cable frayed in two spots-obviously from rock hit (both on unimportant sections). Well on top and normal route bit livelier and even on Spinotti descent met some people, but view on descent path from Lambertenghi promised real continuous procession zavijanje z očmi

. Black clouds over lake and behind Capolago drove crowd down before we descended to that path and drank well-deserved beer in Lambertenghi velik nasmeh

(+3)

bagi31. 08. 2017 11:49:10

Weg der 26 …. we met again after eight years nasmeh

. Time's toll shows, especially in the initial vertical part. The entry cable is no longer fixed at all points and is loose. Officially D+ in this part, in my opinion now E. Perhaps intentionally for selection. Who can't climb here, won't make it higher on the smooth slabs where there is no retreat option.

And as I wrote once ... Weg der 26 is much harder than Cjajnik velik nasmeh

More on this report …. http://www.hribi.net/izlet/rifugio_tolazzi_monte_coglians_hohe_warte_weg_der_26er/27/649/2644 ...

Some extra pics here ... https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMndWQ6Bpt4c2ZZZMuynTxQpx9XrshlTvg1pi-aXaYrTTw3Ks4eskU7f8-giF5nWA?key=c1VvVFFCa1RYWXlKRHo1bW0weXZaeEowYlphYzFR

Dawn glow at Marinelli hut. Towards Wolayersee lake and our starting point we head along the Spinotti path

On the Spinotti path ... the saddle where we are heading. There is the Lamberthengi hut

Lamberthengi hut right below Wollayersee lake

Austrian Eduard Pichl hut on the other side of the lake

Towards the saddle. The path to Weg der 26 leads right below under the peak in the middle of the photo

View back. In the middle, slightly more difficult to access Monte Capolago right above the lake

Easily accessible and green Rauchkofel on the opposite side of Hohe Warte

For access to Hohe Warte there are two routes available ... harder Weg der 26 and easier Koban Prunner

The initial walls are vertical. The fixed cables are unusually loose because several anchors have been pulled out

No photo from the vertical entry understandably :) This was taken higher above it, above the break.

The via ferrata from the vertical section transitions to steep, horizontal smooth slabs with very few footholds.

Up to about halfway the steepness does not relent.

Higher in the via ferrata, the steel cables are in better condition than below, but still quite loose.

Occasionally safe stances for resting are available, then new challenges await again...

Up to halfway the exposure is enormous, higher up it is easier.

Besides strength in arms and legs, composure regarding the depths and possible slips is important.

Logbook. From here onwards it is easier.

Weg der 26 merges in its upper half with the Koban Prunner path.

In the final section ridge scrambling comes next.

Passages on the ridge are nice and protected.

We congratulate each other on the path traversed ... :)

Our goal from some other day ... Creta Collinetta, Creta di Collina, Creta della Chianavante.

The summit is spacious, most climbers understandably come from the southern, easily accessible route.

Southern approach means scree grinding. The descent is already awkward, let alone the ascent.

We all agree we would rather descend via Koban Prunner than here. But transport logistics dictate otherwise.

Pic Chiadin on the path to Marinelli hut.

Back at the Marinelli hut. Due to easy access, it was full of day visitors.

Sketch of the Weg der 26 path and difficulty markings from 2004, four years after the via ferrata opening. The lower part is now more difficult.

Right side of the Crete map first day, left side Hohe Warte via Weg der 26 second day

(+10)

funnyboy2. 09. 2017 09:00:31

Lively happenings in the Carnics nasmeh

http://primozgraheljsblog.blogspot.si/2017/09/lepotca-nad-jezerom-wolayer-see-30-in.html

(+2)

mandela28. 09. 2018 10:47:24

Wonderful weekend in the Carnics. Monte Coglians via ferrata Weg der 26er. The ferrata is renovated, cables tight, pegs fixed... so Cjajnik is king again mežikanje

entrance to the via ferrata Weg der 26er

(+3)

haridautovic9. 08. 2020 11:57:26

6.8.2020 Monte Coglians / Hohe Warte is with 2,780 m the highest mountain of the Carnic Alps. It is located in their central part west of the international border crossing Plöckenpass (Monte on the border between Austria and Italy). Normal southern approach leads from Marinelli Hut over grassy Pic Chiadin and then up the south gravel slope to the summit. Very demanding secured climbing path starting at the base of the north wall, accessible from saddle Valentintörl, "Weg der 26er". Unfortunately in the middle of the exhausting scree we realized we had missed the turn for Weg der 26er and continued the ascent up the south slope to the summit. SVK idled in the backpack.

Starting point at Rifugio Tolazzi — to/on Rifugio Tolazzi.

Soon we are already at the cheese hut Casera Morareet

after long ascent on grassy slope we reach the Marinelli hut

We treat ourselves to morning coffee — at/on rifugio Marinelli (2122 m) Carnic Alps.

and we admire the hut, in my opinion one of the most beautiful in magnificent surroundings

curious guardian vigilantly monitors everything happening around the hut

Continuation of the path towards the summit, here we realized we missed the branch for the ferrata Weg der 26er, we didn't regret it at the top due to fog and cloudiness

long and exhausting scree field drains strength and forces you to give everything

when you reach firmer support it goes easier — to/on Monte Coglians.

we were so glad for it/the sky opens only in bits, 10 seconds and end

at the Austrian cross / nice to stand on the highest peak of the Karnics

On descent we turn over Forcello Monumenz and ascend to Pic Chiadin

and along the panoramic grassy ridge towards the Marinelli hut

exceptionally beautiful ridge, full of blueberries

views from the hut are really phenomenal

once again admire the wonderful location of the hut, which is a popular spot also among mountain bikers.. and descent into the valley

(+1)

Cedomedo9. 09. 2020 21:36:21

Hello. This weekend I might go to Wolayersee with my wife. I'm interested if the hut on the pasture Untere Valentinalm mentioned in the route description is the same as the hut marked on Google Maps as Almgasthof Valentinalm and if it's about 2.5 hours from Ljubljana to it? Thanks for the answer velik nasmeh

haridautovic16. 11. 2020 14:42:39

The Obere Valentinalm hut is located on the other side of the hill that MI2 didn't go to, we went from the Italian side from the starting point at Rifugio Tolazzi. LP

mirank16. 11. 2020 15:05:04

Untere = lower; that's the lower pasture, there is a hut or farm tourism. You can get there by car. Obere = upper pasture, I think it's not serviced even in season, at least we never stopped there as the trail goes a bit lower by.

(+1)

turbo16. 11. 2020 16:21:38

At the lower Valentin Alm there's a nice inn:
https://www.valentinalm.at/index.php?language=de&sid=9

(+3)

VanSims24. 07. 2021 13:55:39

Monte Coglians via Koban-Pruner Weg:

https://simsoneblog.wordpress.com/monte-coglians-po-koban-pruner-weg/

mirank25. 07. 2021 22:04:46

Current conditions; both northern approaches are still under snow at the wall entrance. Hard snowfield persists also on Spinotti path in the gully. Ice axe and crampons recommended for all these routes. No obstacles on normal via from south.

They said the weather would be nice, they're heading up.

(+1)

bagi31. 08. 2022 12:26:48

After a long time we visited the neighbors again, this time Carnic Alps with the highest peak Hohe Warte at the forefront. We wanted to hike the Koban-Prunner route which we hadn't known yet. It runs left of the more known ferrata Weg der 26er, higher up both merge into a single summit access.

Early hour, golden hour works great here. The partly shared Karnische 403 already had real processions of visitors early in the morning, but in our route there was no one yet. Nor in Weg der 26er direction. This one is now completely renovated, so no more freely hanging cables in the entry part. Distances between individual anchors are also much shorter, which helps in case of slip.

We continued a bit further left and entered the well-marked Koban-Prunner route. It's characterized by yellow markers visible excellently even in fog. There are plenty everywhere, so no issues with route finding. Overall it's more scrambling than secured path. There are some cables on exposed places, but not everywhere. Even though easier than nearby ferrata, it shouldn't be underestimated.

From junction with Weg der 26er onwards protection is sufficient everywhere and fully renovated here too. So up to the summit where quite some hikers gathered. Except us all came via normal route, which later proved god's path. We descended here and hadn't met so many hikers for long. They ascended in columns, all sorts equipped with various experience. Reminded us most of our Mangart.

Before rest at Rif. Marinelli we treated ourselves to nearby peaks Pilastro and Cima di Mezzo. First more by mistake, but proved excellent viewpoint. Direct neighbor of Hohe Warte and from its summit we admired crowds still ascending it. Path to Pilastro not exactly easy as upper part crosses exposed ledges. Also some scrambling to II, nothing worse. Definitely worth visit if time allows.

Conversely Cima di Mezzo is easily accessible mountain. Comfortable mule track from WWI times leads to it, nowhere too exposed. Masterfully routed in high mountains and panoramic throughout. Summit doesn't lag and offers great views to nearby and distant peaks.

It offered us view to dark clouds and heavy rain veils spreading towards us from above Mokrin. We hurried down to hut where rest finally came. Good mood chased the thunderstorm away too, and we descended to the starting point on a sunny day nasmeh

Parking at the large parking lot by Rifugio Tolazzi hut.

Morning view of Wolayer Pass saddle, our first goal

Italian hut Rif. Lambertenghi right below the pass. This year it is closed for renovation

Austrian hut Wolayerseehütte with beautiful location right by the lake

Monte Capolago, demanding mountain directly above the lake

Part of the path is shared with Karnijsko 403, from here we are alone

The entire area is a mixture of rocks from different geological periods

Still no one anywhere from this side. That suits us fine

In the upper part of the scree we branch off for the Koban-Prunner route

The entry section offers easy scrambling

Higher the wall becomes steeper, marked by well-visible yellow signs

On some exposed passages there is also a fixed cable for help

Markers are frequent, red joins yellow in places

When the terrain levels out, a demanding traverse follows

The scree is steep, slabs strewn with debris in places. No protection

On the opposite side of the scree the Koban-Prunner and Weg der 26er routes merge

From here it only goes upwards to the summit

Protections completely renewed after a long time

And we're already on the well-visited summit. Real columns wind along the normal route.

We descended along it. The helmet is still recommended due to the gully.

We wanted to go to Cima di Mezzo, but by mistake turned to Pilastro earlier :)

Access to this mountain is not entirely easy. It starts with an ascent over scree.

Higher it turns into rocky terrain with some more difficult passages.

But all this is rewarded with beautiful views far around.

Even a four-pawed woof-woof mountaineer came to greet us :)

Originally we wanted to go up here, but we got a bit lost :)

No problem, the batteries will hold for the third ascent above 2700 m.

We're walking on a comfortable military mule track. View into the cirque deep below us.

Kellerspitze opposite us. An attractive mule track leads there too.

In the basin right below it, military markings are visible on the rocks.

Keller Warte, or Cima di Mezzo in Italian.

We're descending as fast as possible, as extensive rain curtains are not far away.

Meanwhile we scare off a huge flock of birds.

View back to Hohe Warte, Pilastro and Cima di Mezzo.

Fortunately the storm took another path, there's already sun in the valley.

Descending in the direction of Pic Chiadin and Rif. Marinelli hut.

The rock here is completely different again.

Rif. Marinelli with a beautiful panoramic view.

We were served quickly, the hut fully occupied judging by the shoe storage.

Way of the Cross in modern style. This happens in the mountains too :)

We close the loop. Already back at the start at Rif. Tolazzi.

GPS track of the route. Recorded 17 km and 2300 m elevation gain.

(+3)

pohodnik33331. 07. 2023 21:39:49

More pics from 23.7.2023.

Rauchkogel massively visited, some views to S part Hohe Warte(pic 1). Snowfields no problem. Up via S route, Weg der 26er, Ferrata D. It's really D, beginning has couple longer D, C-D sections(see board on pic 2), then easier towards summit.

Summit unfortunately in clouds, didn't clear.

Descent S side without issues, technically nothing special.

Regards,

View from Rauchkofel to the S part of Hohe Warte, where there are two ferratas

Board with a more precise breakdown of the ferrata.

The first sections of the ferrata are harder

Summit unfortunately in clouds. What can you do.

(+4)

J.P.1. 10. 2023 19:38:10

September is usually quite generous with weather for mountaineers. So we had last Monday on the way to Coglians. Start and end at Croce Carnico pass. Path without peculiarities, only scree below summit somewhat more strenuous. Recommend return over Pic Chiadin summit. Regards