| Dr.ejči17. 05. 2020 11:24:43 |
If I can comment too, so there won't be, due to "instant" pathlessness, too big a rush to this "route", because Silvestr's description reads quite simply?... Definitely the ledge is much easier to find "up" than "down"... indeed Mihelič describes in Northern approaches that it's no harder than II, but still... when I first explored this end, my partner and I were descending from the saddle... if you don't turn a bit left into the gully, but go straight where the traces lead, you end up above overhanging drops, where there are abseil stations, but without gear it won't go... the gully is quite compact when dry, in snow and, last time I struggled, in ice, quite demanding (with Juš I hammered 2 pegs and rappelled with rope on ice)... below the gully ends in scree and green meadows... here, on descent, the difficulty arises, at least if you follow Mihelič's description, where he states: "...rightmost, by the wall, descends to the right a steep chimney-like gully, where the most demanding climbing of the whole tour awaits..."... searching for that "gully" bore no fruit, because it's actually a ledge, conditionally a shelf... the ledge is equipped with bolts, but narrows greatly in the middle... exposure is huge!... yes, 4 years ago Anita Čopkov fell to her death exactly from that shelf (her memorial plaque is on one of the boulders near the bivouac)... even harder, in my opinion, is the traverse across the grassy ledges, where you absolutely can't protect yourself, so an ice axe is absolutely welcome!!... compared to climbing VKŠ and traversing to KŠ, this is considerably harder... in the opposite direction, i.e. "up", it seemed easier to me... I would advise against this variant for the inexperienced, for the others, with sense! 
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