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North Ridge of Visoka Ponca II-III 400m

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JusAvgustin13. 08. 2016 22:42:47
In a few words among my top 5 ridges. From Vratica to VRP via S ridge is one of the things I'll always remember with pleasure. Total blast on the ridge. Even more crazy company. Beautiful rock and insane exposure.
North Ridge of Visoka Ponca II-III 400m 1
North Ridge of Visoka Ponca II-III 400m 2
North Ridge of Visoka Ponca II-III 400m 3
North Ridge of Visoka Ponca II-III 400m 4
North Ridge of Visoka Ponca II-III 400m 5
North Ridge of Visoka Ponca II-III 400m 6
North Ridge of Visoka Ponca II-III 400m 7
North Ridge of Visoka Ponca II-III 400m 8
(+15)like
dprapr14. 08. 2016 17:11:11
In a few words you're tempting all of us who haven't been to this ridge yet to go for it.nasmeh
Looks like a really nice ridge.




(+1)like
JusAvgustin14. 08. 2016 17:27:18
I think there aren't many who have climbed it. Those who have are undoubtedly thrilled by the knife-edge since it's only 20cm wide in places. You climb quite a bit up to the summit tower. After that it's mostly easy but exposed. I think there won't be much crowd on the ridge especially if you start right at Vratica...
(+1)like
Dr.ejči14. 08. 2016 17:45:56
Nice, knobby ridge, with "manly" II-III if you don't bypass eek...(last year it rejected me, this time it didn't)velik nasmeh
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mailman14. 08. 2016 19:05:06
Everything is nice...and fine and cool. Who knows, knows...but pic 8, I see tools needed on the edge slab...but that red cylindrical thing doesn't make sense to me...where do you need it???jezikjezikmežikanjemežikanje
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Dr.ejči14. 08. 2016 19:14:48
...but similar function as "bohor"...velik nasmeh
(+1)like
dprapr14. 08. 2016 20:04:49
For that red thing I immediately knew what it's used for on ridge climbing.
For "bohor" I had to google it though.
(+5)like
redbull10. 07. 2020 22:19:34
S ridge of Rateška V.Ponca-Strug-Kugy-M.Ponca (10.07.20)

Started in Planica by the ski jump up the forest road and later into the hot forest. At Vratca I turn left where the ridge starts. More or less stick to the ridge, some sections better to climb more to the right (Z). Ropes not really needed at the two descents. To the summit roughly as in the description. Narrow gully and right to the top. From here you can already see the summit crosses on Visoka Ponca, a bit more easy climbing to there. Continued to Strug and descended via Via Kugy route (direct to Strug) down to the scree. Still huge snow around the wall, so caution, ice axe mandatory. Continued past Koča Zacchi upwards and since I was there and hadn't been yet I climbed up to Mala Ponca too. Descent the same way as ascent in the morning. Nice hot day
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dprapr11. 07. 2020 08:31:26
Nice tour.
I'll say the same as Tone last time, pity I'm not 40 anymore. So much nice stuff left...nasmeh
(+2)like
Filip_Culjak30. 10. 2025 21:01:56
On Saturday (25.10.2025.) my friend (Shkaro) and I traversed this ridge. The North Ridge of Visoka Ponca in far from ideal winter conditions was a real test for us. We started just after 7:30 and reached Vratica in less than two and a half hours. Snow started around 1500m with 10cm. To Vratica the snow amount increased a bit, mostly 15-20cm, sometimes sinking almost to knees in more wind-exposed areas. Snow was rather crusty and poorly settled, except low down where I assume rain turned to snow and froze overnight. From Vratica to summit took us almost 6 hours. We had quite some work on this crazy and very beautiful ridge. Start fairly tricky, breaking onto the ridge required some drytooling and crampon scratching on rocks hidden under unsettled snow.

Then followed the narrowest part of the ridge as Juš noted sometimes only 20 cm wide. Luckily on this section the rock is excellent quality with great holds. Followed a tricky descent to the notch/saddle, then breakthrough via some gully back to ridge. Up and down a bit, exposed traverse and we were at the hardest part, steep gully/chimney facing right (friends size 0.75 and up come in handy) leading to fore-summit. From fore-summit short ride on the knife-edge then mostly balancing on loaded larger and smaller rock blocks to the very summit of Visoka Ponca (2274 m).

Descended via marked path to Tamar and then hiking steps back to Planica. After the steep secured with cable section instead of following marked path we climbed directly to fore-summit (??) of Srednja Ponca and rejoined the path, as in these conditions it was much more logical. Descent to Tamar insanely steep, especially the trickiest part was the lower section when darkness caught us with tons of wet leaves on the path. Under leaves mud and wet rocks/stones.

Whole tour took over 13 hours. Secured ourselves at a few spots, anchors mostly with ice axes.
Immediately after the parking in Planica we leave the path to Tamar and start steeply ascending in switchbacks on the PP path.1
In the steep forest we quickly gain 350 elevation meters and the trail levels briefly and crosses a stream. This is the view towards Mala Ponca (1925 m).2
After crossing the stream we follow the forest road briefly then turn left into the woods.3
When winter and autumn meet.4
Here we changed clothes because of the wind and cold and went left up.5
Branch from PP path right to Vratica.6
From Kepe (2143 m) to Škrlatica (2740 m).7
The last ascent to the Vratica saddle.8
On the Vratica saddle we put on crampons.9
From Vratica it gets serious immediately.10
Upon reaching the ridge edge need to immediately downclimb in reverse.11
We quickly realized it won't go without ice axes. This is the breakthrough to the ridge.12
Exposed and inclined traverse right to the chimney which is the only logical route continuation.13
From chimney across mixed terrain to the right-hand spur.14
Crossing from the spur back to the open wall.15
In the direction of scree to the very ridge edge. Scree and grass clumps were the most reliable ice axe targets.16
Rest before the exit to the ridge edge.17
After exiting to the ridge edge the sharpness surprises us right away.18
Dance with the ridge spurs.19
Descent from spur to notch (in photo) then to next spur directly along edge (exposed III with really good holds).20
Winding descent from second more prominent spur to ridge col. No rope needed as holds and steps excellent despite vertical and overhanging ridge before col.21
Narrow gully above col leading back to ridge.22
The ridge becomes wider and less exposed for a short time.23
Mali Koritniški Mangart (2333 m), Mangart (2678), Viš (2666 m) and Montaž (2753 m).24
We continue.25
Here we went straight and a bit to the right. Upon reaching the ridge, we found that the rock was quite crumbly and the only sensible holds and footholds were very suspicious. We decided on a short rappel.26
Rappel from the boulder 10 meters lower.27
If you look at the photo before the rappel, instead of straight and right we went towards the yellow larch.28
After climbing to the ridge, a short exposed descent followed again.29
View back to the corner from which we descended.30
Next, an exposed but initially wide enough traverse to the right awaited us.31
At the end, the traverse narrowed.32
This photo nicely shows the exposure of that traverse.33
From the end of the traverse, it was necessary to descend into the gully. The descent was quite exposed and without proper footholds, so we belayed here.34
When the gully became vertical, we headed towards that little tower.35
Despite looking for the least steep variant around it, we still had to deal with quite some steepness.36
Now the technically most demanding part of the tour in these conditions awaits us.37
Fierce gusts of wind additionally enlivened the already very demanding ascent.38
The most demanding pitch from above.39
The last meters...40
...and we are on the fore summit of Visoka Ponca. From here, some unexpectedly complicated details await us.41
For example, this riding of the ridge.42
And some wedging of ice axes into crevices that were hidden under the snow.43
Still a bit of balancing on snow-laden rock blocks...44
...and we are finally on the summit of Visoka Ponca, where despite the strong wind we enjoy the views at least for a short while.45
From the southwest, it was slowly closing in.46
The two of us on the summit of Visoka Ponca (2274 m). Huge luck after successfully climbing the North Ridge in very demanding conditions.47
Unfortunately there was no time to enjoy and we started the descent relatively quickly.48
The steepest but also the most protected section of the path to Srednja Ponca.49
Last steps to the summit of Srednja Ponca (2228 m). Now only descent, no more ascent.50
View from the top of Srednja Ponca (2228 m) towards the higher sister, Visoka Ponca (2274 m)51
From the summit of Srednja Ponca we descend the marked path which follows a sort of gully until it becomes too steep.52
Slowly darkness overtook us.53
But nothing serious, as with the help of lamps we precisely followed the right path and quite quickly reached the flat in Tamar. Still just a walk to Planica :)54
(+32)like
zokipoki30. 10. 2025 21:33:47
Congratulations on successfully completing the strenuous tour!
Stay safe!
(+5)like
j.31. 10. 2025 00:44:49
Speechless! Congratulations!
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mukica31. 10. 2025 06:41:35
Excellent tour and description of a demanding experience.Congratulationsnasmeh
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Daaam31. 10. 2025 08:17:14
Bravo for the top tour! ..and thanks for the wonderful report nasmeh
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alyas31. 10. 2025 09:03:55
uff, all congratulations for your tour, in cold and snowy conditions it's at least 2x harder velik nasmeh
(+4)like
Filip_Culjak31. 10. 2025 17:32:05
Thanks everyone. I hope again sometime, maybe when snow will be more usable nasmeh
(+3)like
lino31. 10. 2025 18:34:20

That's an extraordinary tour. And photos that take your breath away. Good luck further! nasmeh
(+3)like
geppo31. 10. 2025 18:36:06
Congratulations!!!
(+4)like
Pe pi31. 10. 2025 18:41:09


I also join Zlatko's assessment! velik nasmeh velik nasmeh
(+3)like
dprapr7. 11. 2025 19:25:01
Uh, another demanding traverse of this ridge. Interesting that you tackled it in such conditions. Did you expect better conditions on the ridge?
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Filip_Culjak8. 11. 2025 07:12:15
Actually we were looking for more demanding conditions. Still certain details surprised us a bit. Fortunately we were prepared for that and aware that the tour would drag on and not be easy.
(+4)like
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