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Northwest Ridge of Kočna

Jovan Cukut14. 09. 2015 17:50:08

Long-planned ascent of the NW ridge of Kočna realized today. More about the bold and demanding ascent in pictures and comments.

https://picasaweb.google.com/113805105178377351223/SeverozahodniGrebenKocne13092015

(+16)

dprapr14. 09. 2015 19:25:14

Bravo, Jovan and team!
You were fast. We took 7 hours to the top of Na Križ, maybe due to the great heat. It was 35 degrees in the valley then.
In my opinion, this is also the most demanding ridge of KSA. Mainly due to length and junipers in the lower part. The northern ridge of Kočna also has one very delicate short pitch, but it is significantly shorter than this NW ridge.
Vinko and I left nothing on the ridge, but belayed once and hammered one peg. Where you mentioned one of the harder parts of the ridge.
Regards

lijaneja14. 09. 2015 19:30:27

Alpine Tour. All three of my last KSA unknowns in one go, even in fog. Probably didn't miss much. I dispersed the fog between Kok. and Jez. Kočno just after eleven.
Jovan, as I understand, you didn't use ropes at all, so the route doesn't exceed III?

janezs7314. 09. 2015 22:03:42

Congratulations, Jovan, for the mega tour. My colleague and I also did it last Wednesday (9th) - my report will come a bit after yours, as I submitted it to the editor as a new route description, since it wasn't anywhere (not in conditions, not in descriptions) nasmeh

(+3)

Dr.ejči15. 09. 2015 13:31:13

Anyone capable of such demanding ridge climbing will find its description easily. Since most portal descriptions are based on marked paths, it is understandable that it is not here... like many others.. mežikanje

... and if it must be, I sincerely hope it will be among alpinistic ascents, where it belongs. nasmeh

...(just thinking aloud velik nasmeh

)

(+1)

JusAvgustin15. 09. 2015 13:53:13

http://www.hribi.net/izlet/murijeva_planina_pod_mlinarjevim_sedlom_na_krizu_kokrska_kocna_po_sz_grebenu_na_kocno_oz_vrh_na_krizu/3/2559/5610

mežikanje

dprapr15. 09. 2015 14:03:33

Such an ascent without belay, as done by Jovan and the team, is suitable only for very experienced climbers in demanding pathless climbing or easier routes. The ridge is physically taxing at the start due to pines, later technically demanding (at least two III-degree details).
Can't compare to Zeleniške Špice by any means!

(+2)

lijaneja15. 09. 2015 21:50:14

Drago and Juš, thanks. nasmeh

strikan13. 07. 2016 19:26:30

NW ridge Kočna. Start at Makek at 6.20h. Veliki vrh at 7.40h. Križ at 12.40h. J. Kočna at 14.00h. Arrival in the valley at 18.25h.

(+12)

jax13. 07. 2016 20:47:30

Nice. Very nice nasmeh

(+1)

palček plezalček13. 07. 2016 20:54:46

Nice tour

(+3)

redbull12. 10. 2019 22:43:00

NW ridge/Kočna/Grintovec (12.10.19)

The day was perfect for this, probably the longest pathless ridge in KSA. At seven we were at Veliki vrh and now this interesting ridge started. At first nice path, which soon changed to hopping between dwarf pines. The dwarf pines lasted a long time. Real climbing started, especially on the best passages. According to Vidmar some bypassed the ridge section below on grass, we abseiled here. At Oltarji extra careful, as one part is such that something will break off anytime. Last part mostly walking to summit at Križ. Incredible ridge, especially very long. Visit both Kočnas and Grintovec too. Return via Mlinarsko sedlo and Frischauf path. Nice carpeted path with autumn leaves to Makekovo Kočno.

(+9)

dprapr13. 10. 2019 10:02:35

Interesting that you abseiled before those towers on pic 11. I thought now they abseil there. Before nowhere.
Good tour.

(+1)

redbull13. 10. 2019 10:10:14

Before Kljuka we abseiled, that on pic 11 I don't know why peg there exactly, unnecessary. I think most don't go here, but bypass below on grass the harder part. Per Vidmar probably so. Photo is where nicely done for descent, if going ridge, spot before Kljuka.

nicely made for descent if going along the ridge

dprapr13. 10. 2019 13:48:14

There peg is driven if securing over those towers. Recommended, because descent from towers exposed.

(+1)

Trobec16. 08. 2022 10:30:09

A slightly easier and shortened version of NW ridge - over Mali kup then to ridge. But even here don't underestimate things. Still need to master orientation in pathless terrain, still II and one bit harder detail.

https://trobec.blogspot.com/2022/08/kocne-po-sz-grebenucez-mali-kup-1482022.html

(+5)

dprapr16. 08. 2022 12:05:10

The ridge usually starts at Vratce. It is really short, difficult in the first part, where you need to cross the steep wall past the larch on the left. Interesting how that larch grows there, almost parallel to the wall and good for belay before the hardest part.

Trobec16. 08. 2022 21:14:19

Thanks for the info. Yes, it looks quite short... something like what was done here on this shortened version. But surely one gets to the ridge earlier, over all the small bumps before Vratce.

Trobec23. 09. 2025 08:29:03

"Sooner or later the whole ridge will come up", after that shortened variant 3 years ago...let's agree on "the last summer Saturday". Otherwise just the two of us, most of the "standard" team unfortunately missing.

I tackled this ridge with great respect, in the end it was easier than I thought and I also seriously misjudged the time. Of course better this way than the other way around..."it's not bad", but in the end velik nasmeh

Through the scrub quite fast, we found all passages practically "first time", didn't belay at all, of course all gear was with us. It helped a bit that the upper part was already known nasmeh

Then across both Kočne, Koles, finally towards Zeleni kup...which will wait for next time zadrega