Prisojnik - Kopiščar Path
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| tinky5. 09. 2019 11:16:53 |
Boštjan, weren't you guys on the motorcycle
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| legenda5. 09. 2019 12:57:12 |
No, Vinko. We would have gone by motorcycle, but there were so many on the road that we were faster by car.
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| blue33016. 02. 2020 16:58:06 |
16/2/2020 Goal was winter ascent of Kopiščarjeva through Prisojnik Window. Halfway, precisely at the traverse left just below the known chimney, unstable windblown snow stopped us and we quickly turned back.
For info: right at the start of the route the fixed protections stick out of the snow, after a few meters they disappear under snow and we see them again in the chimney where snow hardly accumulated.
In winter among those walls of Prisojnik it's really unique!
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| redbull16. 02. 2020 17:10:45 |
What kind of snow is it, more or less soft?
Thanks
Good luck
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| blue33016. 02. 2020 17:20:41 |
Snow in the lower part was ok, hard icy snow, on the ledges under the chimney it sank to the waist, soft snow. We'll try again when conditions on northern slopes improve.
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| redbull16. 02. 2020 19:12:02 |
Interesting
Thanks
Good luck
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| matic417. 02. 2020 07:44:27 |
blue count on the exit through the window being completely icy. That'll be tough..
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| Nejc78717. 02. 2020 17:56:39 |
This is how it looked yesterday from the top of the window. Doesn't look too impossible. But the icicle in the window was already dripping nicely around 11am and breaking off from small icicles around. One day the guillotine will crash into the valley...
Otherwise Bravo and good luck!
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| matic417. 02. 2020 19:06:27 |
I see I skipped it. I remember a couple cm of ice on the slab before the exit.
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| Nejc78717. 02. 2020 19:10:39 |
No big deal, conditions change fast with this "summer". Important we exchange useful info. Good luck.
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| janezs7323. 06. 2020 20:43:24 |
Today through Prednje okno on Kopiščar route. Passable, with technical gear (for snow!) of course - details as follows:
Harder parts in lower section are dry of course (some fresh small slides and torn cables - nothing critical). Shortly above exit from ledge larger snowfield to cross (diagonally) - not critical, I still wouldn't cross without one ice tool in hand. Above it first smaller snowfield (can avoid if used to climbing vegetated rock), above it another larger, go straight up first then along edge fissure right to rim. Edge fissure currently less than a meter wide and several meters deep, in a week could be critically wide and less solid. Two tools very helpful and technical boots with stiff sole - approach shoes and similar can be extremely dangerous here. Currently crampons no effect, snow softened to few cm depth.
Below window larger snowfield right under path, its edge still fully icy. Torn cable there too. Higher in window (where lots red soil) another small slide from right. Terrain quite unstable with numerous cracks.
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| j.23. 06. 2020 22:13:51 |
Realistic and useful description, Janez! Contributes to general knowledge of mountain conditions!
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| Nejc78728. 06. 2020 08:04:10 |
Yesterday on Kopiščar quite some traffic. Snowfields already noticeably smaller, second practically gone. Third go straight up briefly along left side then traverse right in slot. With one ice axe no problem. Crampons, if no cooling overnight, not needed. Path yesterday very wet in many places. That's why even nicer on ridge after. Fog and sun play...
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| sdeis30. 06. 2020 13:26:38 |
Nice greeting to all hikers!
I'd ask for advice. This year I really want to summit via Kopiščar, but not sure if up to the route.
This weekend Hanzova to MM - path not difficult for me. Also some ferratas (Bruno Biondi, Hvadnik, Mojstrana) no big issues. Do sport climbing too. Still quite some awe/respect for that route.
Could recommend another tour as good prep for Kopiščar?
Thanks all for answers.
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| bbugari130. 06. 2020 13:52:38 |
Ice axe and crampons (SV?) and that's it. Go on and good luck!
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| funnyboy30. 06. 2020 13:59:03 |
Hello,
if on mentioned climbing routes no big problems, then I think on Kopiščar you shouldn't have either, at least looking at technical difficulty of routes done so far. So technically no problem, if altitude no issue then should do it without major trouble. Just agree with your mind you're capable for this tour given what you've climbed, and it'll be .
Otherwise don't know what prep to recommend, seems you don't even need it - I think the "problem" (such big awe) is in head, not your skills, please don't take wrong.
Unless some "braking" element in background (bad stories about tour etc.) worrying you we don't know....
Still listing some tours for prep: Lojze Rekar route (Vrbanove Špice), Via Italiana (Mangart), or something technically easier like Na Rjavino, Triglav, Krn etc...
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| zora30. 06. 2020 15:11:14 |
Hi, does anyone know the current conditions on the Slovenska path? Can any more snowfields be expected?
Thanks!
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| Nejc78730. 06. 2020 17:12:01 |
I haven't been on Slovenska this time, but there can't be much snow left if it's melting on the S side like crazy. Maybe a patch in the gully. Someone who went there over the weekend will say, I saw quite a few of them.
For Sdeis, to what's already written (I agree with everything), I add this: Kopiščarjeva is very well equipped with protections. Rather a lot than too little. Since it's shorter than e.g. Hanzova, it's more suitable in Prisojnik for someone who isn't often in "feratas". It's great if it's your first time to have someone beside you who knows the path and instills confidence. These are serious mountains, not a climbing crag somewhere by the path. You need to consider the weather, the psyche factor, know how to follow the path (it's well marked) and much more. Go when it's been dry for a while. Then the chimney is dry and there's no feeling in the window like in a car wash. Impressions will be much nicer. Further along the ridge there are no more specialties, nicely airy in a few places. But great views.
As preparation? Maybe both Kočni and Grintovec - all from the Czech hut side, over Žrelo to Storžič (because of scree movement), Slovenska on Mangart, also Italian from the bivouac, which is the airiest of all listed. Much more than Kopiščarjeva. Kopiščarjeva is an old, serious and good mountaineering tour that in moderate form offers everything you seek and find in our mountains.
Prudently, boldly and good luck!
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| sdeis30. 06. 2020 17:52:08 |
Thank you all so much for such careful answers and advice! I'll wait another month or so until the snow melts a bit more, then action
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