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Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička

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geppo23. 10. 2018 22:00:03
Robanova Planšarija / Prodi / Škrbinski gully / Podi / Kopinšek's path / Škrbina / Hunters' path to Krofička / Zadnji Travnik / Črni Hriber
Morning, just after seven, when we park +3°C. When the sun hits the peaks we see whitened S/SE walls. Our aim is to reach from the basin to Škrbina and then continue towards Krofička. When I started planning routes here about 40 years ago I heard stories that Roban's children walk through here. But I haven't met anyone yet who has done the ascent to the marked path leading from Škrbina to Ojstrica (Kopinšek's path).
Milan has done quite a few inspections and thoroughly learned the hunting/chamois variants and done his own variant to Kopinšek's. Today's variant we did with combined strength, ideas. It went pretty well for us!!
As we ascend towards Skok, over which avalanches rush in winter from the SE wall of Ojstrica, we spot a fresh bear track. 20m above us is the entrance to a cave in the wall. We don't have the balls to check it out...rolling eyes
We ascend, search for passages and finally turn into the gully, which we mark as our approach. Gully smoothed by torrents, avalanches, ice. In short smooth, littered with scree and of course full of rock steps. Quite some scrambling awaits us. Milan curses for a moment (doesn't fold the poles of course), I quietly scramble behind him, tense up and whisper a new song to myself (Calvin H. Promises) to calm my nerves...
Finally spot Kopinšek's markings. We sit down and snack in the SW wind. When we descend to Škrbina it's real winter. The meadow on Krofička greets us in the sun and it's warm. We cross to Covnik Meadows. Descent to Črni Hriber was a chapter on its own. Autumn descent in dry grass, leaves, at times almost vertical. We didn't even talk most of the way!! And it was starting to get dark.
Finally after 9 hours of strenuous hike we are at Planšarija.
Very demanding ascent, when you're in the gullies you have no view of what's above you? Maybe there's another variant so you're not in the smoothed gully we took? Plenty of exploration options leftcool Pretty tough stuff!
Ps. Milan forgot his hiking boots at home and did the whole thing in sports sneakers...confused
regards
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička Morning in Kot1
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička Snow-covered cliffs2
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička that's where we're heading up3
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička On the hunting trail4
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička 5
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička still a lot of snow6
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička Bear's footprint7
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička The climbing fun begins8
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička 9
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička Smooth cliffs, wet from melting snow10
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička in the gully11
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička in the gully12
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička in the gully13
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička in the gully14
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička in the gully15
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička Traverse before the gully16
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička Gully behind us17
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička In the gully - above us18
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička In the gully - below us19
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička On Kopinškova20
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička Krofička awaits us in the sun21
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička 22
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička Logarska side23
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička Krofička / Meadow24
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička No end to the scrambling25
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička No end to the scrambling26
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička Covnik meadows27
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička 28
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička Scree.29
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička Klopca / Črni Hribar30
Robanova Planina / Škrbina / Krofička A little more and we are on the level ground31
(+12)like
palček plezalček23. 10. 2018 22:49:16
You two have planned a very interesting path. Congratulations. nasmeh

PS: Good thing you saw only the footprint and not the furry one too.
(+3)like
panoramik23. 10. 2018 23:11:04
Super tour, so it is possible to Kopinškovo from Robanov kot....I would try it toonasmeh
(+1)like
geppo24. 10. 2018 07:29:35
Thanks palček/plezalček
we were very surprised when we saw that big paw print. There is a quite hidden and remote cave nearby and quite possible...

Robi, the upper end of the gully exactly as in the photo I sent you on 13.5.2012 and marked the gully.
(+1)like
Ninđa24. 10. 2018 07:44:11
Imperial. Many times I have looked and wondered if there is some pathless route to Kopinškova.
Thanks for sharing.
Regards, Nino
(+1)like
Gorska planika24. 10. 2018 08:43:21
That's the spirit of exploration! Congratulations on the tour! But I think such a chamois would match even that bear mežikanje
(+2)like
jure197724. 10. 2018 11:16:39
Congratulations from me too, both for the exploration and the courage to continue after seeing the bear's footprintsmile!
(+1)like
sAleska24. 10. 2018 13:33:21
Mmm, it kinda tempted me. Congrats!
(+1)like
dprapr24. 10. 2018 18:26:38
Interesting variant you did.
Is it very loose? Probably better in winter.
(+1)like
rok.si24. 10. 2018 19:34:40
Wow, tough tour! From the valley and from Škrbina that part looks pretty unfriendly even without bears smile
(+1)like
geppo24. 10. 2018 20:17:34
Drago
Not that bad if you find the right passages. No special looseness, you can scramble well even on approach gullies. But once you're in that gully that brings you to Kopinšek's, the problem is smooth, polished rock that's usually wet too.
In winter you have a varied choice of gullies.
I won't pick anybig grin
regards
For me, the part on the photo is the hardest!
1
(+1)like
dprapr24. 10. 2018 20:29:04
Now it's clear to me. As much as I looked at descriptions, it seems you went via Kopinšek route.
I thought you went up the right gully that reaches the col. That one looks very loose. Regards
(+1)like
cico24. 10. 2018 22:12:54
If there had been internet about 35 years ago, I would have
sketched the gully direct to Škrbina for you, at the exit
right an old piton saved me!

Second time with my wife we went direct to the grass under
Kopinšek, only somewhere in the middle we used
rope, otherwise no problem,
some II!!!!
Geppo and others, congrats for wandering the pathless areas and best regards!!

(+4)like
geppo25. 10. 2018 08:40:04
Cico - thanks
Via Škrbina gully and direct exit to Škrbina will interest Milan more (bigger scrambling fan). Looks pretty bad to me thereconfused
In the gully there are quite some II's. One was quite "strong" for me. For someone used to scrambling no problem.
We had rope in the trunk just in casebig grin
But I think the biggest problem is wet, smooth rock!!!
regards
1
(+2)like
dprapr25. 10. 2018 08:51:28
Cico, 35 years ago "internet" was a good slide on the projector, next to it beer that doesn't flow anymore.smile
Anyway, back then the other side of Ojstrica was more interesting.
(+2)like
cico25. 10. 2018 09:28:34
That's true, Drago, the least developed is the Ojstrica part
or wall under Kocbek ridge, because it's in shade a lot
of time and very crumbly, but I know that
inside there are few routes, most winter ones!!!!
Greeting to pathless chamois!big grinbig grin
(+1)like
geppo21. 07. 2019 06:02:52
Yesterday, 20.7.2019, we repeated the route with a larger number of participants.
The biggest difference from the previous trip was the temperature difference. Consequently, we walked about two hours longer. We took more breaks (hot) than the two of us did last year.
In the morning it was pleasantly fresh +12°C in Robanov kot. At least to Planšarija it was, then it started.
The ascent up the first gully was getting hotter and hotter. The rock heated up quickly and the bushes soon started emitting accumulated heat. When we reached the traverse connecting us to the approach gully, I was already pretty beat. The bush belt took its toll, the heat in it and the effort to get my big body through. Rozi, with whom we battled the (so-called greenery) in a duo, did much better. She skillfully maneuvered her slim body between obstacles, while I moved at least a few square meters of branches at once. Already here I'd gladly drink all the water I carried.
The rock in the gully was dry, warm, Vibram gripped well. For the first jump I carried 30m of rope and some of us roped up. Quickly all over without issues.
Progress was still tricky in some places, but we managed. Just momentarily we sought corners of shade. Soon above us we heard voices from Kopinšek path. A little more and we were on Roban's blooming meadow. We descended to Škrbina (marked), eyeing Krofička (sunlit). Hot ascent on hunters' path and every breeze felt good to refresh overheated bodies.
We crossed Zadnja Zelenica (Travnik) and soon more demanding path details started. I just wished there was water at the start of Covnik meadows.
Water there is, but it flows like moonshine. I pulled a PVC tube from the backpack and refilling empty tanks began. I'd gladly charge for using the pumping tool and adding waterbig grin. All impatiently awaited first sips of fresh water and snack time. Still a steep descent to Črni hriber awaited. Whoever has ascended here knows!!!rolling eyes
We descended almost two hours and to Robanova planina we all arrived maximally overheated. Refreshment with fresh "Roban water" followed.
Then "inn goodies" that we all fairly earned...
lp
Approach gully - photo June 20191
Approach gully - photo June 20192
Morning on Robanova Planina3
Skok4
In the right gully5
Photo6
Towards the approach gully7
First jump8
in the gully9
in the gully10
in the gully11
The crumbly sections past the cavity can be avoided a little further right.12
Kopinšek's path is now right above us.13
Hunter's trail to Krofička.14
Some trouble on this rock. It's right above the drop.15
It took quite a while. Probably afraid for the trousers :))16
Covnik's meadows in sight.17
Križevnik's wall.18
There is water.19
A little relaxation before the steep descent20
A little relaxation before the steep descent21
End of the steep part and Robanova planina in view22
(+10)like
dprapr21. 07. 2019 13:03:24
Nice, interesting tour.smile
(+2)like
geppo21. 07. 2019 17:20:00
Drago, you're right, the tour is nice, interestingcool
You face all elements of mountaineering: steep eroded gullies, bushes, smooth washed rocks, rock jumps, demanding descents, searching for abandoned paths, plenty of everything.
It's not intended for "peak conquerors", since you don't ascend any summit. It's quite physically demanding and orientationally difficult. Otherwise, you could continue to Krofička, Ojstrica, Strelovec... there are many options for continuation. But traversing the wall under the Krofička ridge is another charm that perhaps means much more to a true off-trail lover than summiting. And the descent to Črni hriber is really masochisticbig grin - that's what they say!
lp
(+2)like
rozka22. 07. 2019 20:27:57
Krofička, ah Krofička… so many faces it hides, carefully wrapped either in scree or already visible from the valley in impassable gullies, slopes and walls…
And yes, this part was still missing for me, so I can tick off the traverse above, traverse below, traverse left and traverse rightbig grinwink
When we met in Robanov kot, I roughly saw where we would go and where we would exit, since the gully is nicely visible from the starting point, but when you feel the pulse of this path, you know you're somewhere where human feet rarely step and skillful-jumping chamois rule (chocolate bombs give them awaysmile) and walking, scrambling or climbing gains even greater added value.
I won't describe the path, the expert is one post above mecool, but I must add that it's a primal, wild and at times totally crazy tour. Traverses, game trails, scrambling excellent, it really carried me away on excellent rock on boulderssmile, but there are two quite demanding spots, it went without rope, but carefully. Well, steeeep grass, with a hint of scree, pumps adrenaline, looking down is not recommended, but my scree friend took good care of many of my dilemmas, where and especially howwink. Midway you catch your breath when you step on the marked path between Škrbina and Kopinškova, but soon you need to focus again, as the traverse under Krofička follows, which is anything but a walkeek. On Zadnji Travniki narrow trail, sometimes it disappears, dizzying deep views into Robanov kot, scree is not lacking and apparently love is mutual, even on smooth rock (geppo photo 15+16), where it just wouldn't let me out of its embracetongue, so my sliding greatly entertained the co-participants behind me, my huge scared eyes stared into the void under the scree, hehe
Then… Covnikovi travniki, ufff, how beautiful here/there, Križevnik backdrop on the other side, water, shade, chamois family, first snackconfusedbig grin… no more and yes, I'd stay there and although I wanted to descend via Črni hriber, first steps were tough, then to the valley I burned all abs brakes and handbrakes, because slope, man I don't know, at times I froze in splits that I didn't know I could still doconfused and then you save yourself if you know how… tufted grass that you grab doesn't hold weight, ground slides away, me in splits element, you got the picturebig grin, I was my own greatest entertainment and the others looked at me strangely, why am I laughing so muchbig grin. Arrival or rather sprint into Robanov kot was real relief, legs needed a few meters to reach flat ground.
Look back at the traversed... you just can't comprehend where we walked, what we traversed. The tour exceeded everything and is as physically as mentally demanding, it's great if you're accustomed to such terrain and off-trail is your pleasure, likewise heat, scree, length of the tour... I enjoyed it fullysmile
Mitigating circumstance of our exploration was that there were two with us who at least roughly knew wheretonguebig grin, hehhe, otherwise the difficulty gains in rating.

One more experience, one more realization of our smallness and that every moment you successfully traverse, climb is precious and priceless.
Krofička is really a true mountain femme fatale, with huge secrets, wonderful nooks and full of trials... and yes, I'll come againsmile
Morning1
Krofička, V.Travnik, Ute2
Ojstrica ridge and our gully, far right3
at this tree we turn right out of the first gully :)4
View back5
view ahead6
here it was still possible with poles7
we stick to the right side8
hm, here we split... three left, two right9
and soon we two split too, Geppo right, js upwards...10
and higher up, at this spot we two meet again, hehe11
it was time for snapshots too12
at the rocks we all met again and crossed the slope13
entrance into the hardest part14
snapshot15
first jump16
the second one already waiting17
M. already in action18
and she already above the conquered jump:)))19
the hardest part for me20
View back21
View back22
View back23
the first one that day24
Marked path25
over those steep grasses we reached Kopinškova pot26
snapshot27
view to the other side28
Rjavčki Vrh29
already on the hunting trail30
hunting trail to Krofička31
snapshot32
our path already visible33
view of the first part of the traversed path, below Ojstrica34
snapshot35
snapshot36
Covnik meadows37
Geppo was more skilful, hehhe38
a little more39
awkward descent40
some to the right, some to the left41
Robanov kot, with Raduha42
yippee, here we are43
Covnik meadows44
serves as marking, on descent or when searching for the passage to Črni hribar45
snapshot46
Butterfly47
snapshot48
a bit before/under the fork, Ute - Travniki49
Črni hribar and the kingdom of ticks50
very nasty traverse with no bottom51
Robanov kot52
if these aren't real posers... 4 little peaks on a perfect day :)53
(+6)like
coffee14. 08. 2025 20:21:52
I'll describe my today's "exploration" right here.

The goal was to go to the end of Škrbina scree and over Škrbina then continue somehow. But it all ended at the gully head. Although unsuccessful, I'll show the route/direction anyway, if someone wants to repeat.

Around five I headed into Robanov kot. I left the marked path where it crosses the first dry streambed. First some time through sparse forest, then I took the streambed. Orientationally elegant, as it leads directly to the gully, but requires experience for such streambeds where a rock can give way and you dive headfirst.

When the streambed steepens under Krofička walls, the view to the scree opens. Then some easier bouldering is needed. Higher, where blockages are visible on the left (picture 14), it's good to stay right. I didn't, but that wasn't the last problem.

When the gully starts to narrow, it leads to a system of smooth jumps on the left where water rushes. This can be bypassed to the right, but you need to carefully follow when the jumps end and move back from the right to the gully center. Left traverses can be problematic. Nice ramps and grooves on the right tempted me towards Krofička. There I got stuck or wasn't sure anymore what lay ahead. I'd say difficulty was around II-III. Besides steepness, for descent the smooth rock or deposits of stones and sand were problematic, worst of all finding suitable anchors for abseil.

Anyway, I managed to descend and traverse back to the gully. Towards the head it becomes more scree-covered, especially right at the end where I barely held friction. Regarding the exit: right is smooth wall, left is nicely featured, I think no more than 10 meters, and it could be done somehow, but I started to hesitate. Due to scree the approach is hard anyway. Only the initial detail is problematic: steep slab undercut about half a meter below, due to height holds mainly on the right.

Finally my confidence left me and I headed back.
I wanted to get up there.1
some already awake.2
Morning3
those too.4
here I left the marked trail and took a path through the sparse forest.5
then along the streambed.6
Rarely photographed details of the Krofička ridge7
Chamois or human?8
Good trail of locals9
The chamois heads to bed10
Continuation in the scree world11
More and more12
Past the green square13
Before this part it is better to head right14
System of jumps (not all!)15
Here you should stay in the gully16
but the rocks tempted me17
Another local18
Such is the scene towards Krofička19
Okence20
Another one21
I already thought the grass heralds the end of the ordeal22
Some pics of climbing fun23
24
25
26
Back in the gully27
Left variant at the end of the gully; easiest to go right next to it28
A bit closer29
Tooth with a path30
on the descent31
Papa32
(+7)like
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