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Srednji rokav

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Tadej Bolta9. 12. 2019 14:34:00
Evening access to bivouac II. Snow starts at 1500m, to the bivouac it is tracked and frozen until the sun hits it. From the bivouac onwards snow is untracked. The normal route to Middle Rokav is snowed up, only due to the untracked snow are the two jumps harder than in normal conditions.
Srednji rokav 1
Srednji rokav 2
Srednji rokav 3
Srednji rokav 4
Srednji rokav 5
Srednji rokav 6
Srednji rokav 7
Srednji rokav 8
Srednji rokav 9
Srednji rokav 10
Srednji rokav 11
Srednji rokav 12
Srednji rokav 13
Srednji rokav 14
Srednji rokav 15
Srednji rokav 16
(+29)like
jure19779. 12. 2019 14:45:37
Fantastic photos!nasmeh
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ločanka9. 12. 2019 17:29:37
In picture 2 you can see the constellation Orion, below it Sirius, the brightest star in the skynasmeh
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Volk9. 12. 2019 20:15:52
Huh, great!

I admit, it's giving me the itch.

Good luck.
(+1)like
Fikret9. 12. 2019 20:31:36

Ločanka, do you really know stars and constellations so well, or is it just a lit satellite flying around our Earth. If the first option, then congrats and ala ti vera. nasmeh
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sh9. 12. 2019 20:56:43
Ločanka is right, the Orion constellation beautifies the sky view for us on clear winter evenings.
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Nejc7879. 12. 2019 21:09:07
Mega! Good luck!
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rokeg22. 09. 2025 22:05:15
Yesterday I took transports and bus to Mojstrana and without a concrete plan headed towards bivouac 2 and midway the idea hit me to try High Rokav. Over scree I went into Rokav glacier. Now, whether passable or not. For me it was passable in a good half hour. First it's really a collapsed drop, then one loose slope with unstable stones. Best to stay right by the wall, first I went left and dropped some rocks down the glacier when crossing it. Caution must be really maximum. But I advise against it due to really bad collapse. At the notch I didn't even find the entry into the initial chimney and first went to Middle Rokav, which also has one quite vertical drop. At the top quite windy. I looked if possible at all to Rogljati Rokav, but probably not via scree. I descended back to saddle and read descriptions for High Rokav. I found the entry where vertical gully, then on ledge everything got stuck. 1h fiddling and didn't know where to go, all seemed too hard for II-III as some guidebooks say and when comparing to climbed IIIs it seemed at least IV here. Then all possible scenarios ran through my head and I decided the mountain waits and descended. No sense challenging. Already to glacier didn't go best. After glacier it went, but once whole step under foot collapsed and lots of debris rumbled down glacier. Very hard to hit stable steps. Since still lots of time I went also to Dovški križ and Šplevta and to bivouac to sleep. Second day I'll describe in other section.
Cave in Mali Matterhorn. 1
Bivouac 2 at Jezerih. 2
Start of the Rokavski glacier.3
Everything knocked down. 4
Top of the Rokavski glacier.5
Middle Rokav.6
Here to the left is then the hardest part.7
The hardest part of the ascent.8
Last part.9
Škrlatica and Vrh Rokavskega grebena. 10
Middle Rokav.11
High Rokav.12
I take many pictures.13
Spodnji and Rogljati Rokav.14
Back at the saddle.15
And here it gets stuck. Where should we go?16
I don't know where.17
Dovški Križ.18
Rokavi and Oltar.19
Šplevta.20
(+18)like
lijaneja23. 09. 2025 07:57:33
Dry Rokav glacier is 100% a death challenge!!!

Check out High and Middle Rokav from the cirque in the basin
(+3)like
di23. 09. 2025 14:58:02
Can someone roughly determine slope and length in Rokav glacier?
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dprapr23. 09. 2025 15:41:38
Similar to Turski gully (length and slope). But in Turski steeper above, in Rokav below.
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Trobec23. 09. 2025 15:53:48
Well... I won't touch the dry (or half-dry) Rokav glacier anymore... it was this year quite..."interesting" zadrega
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Alpha23. 09. 2025 21:46:04
Everyone decides for themselves based on their abilities and experience, but I'll still comment on the above post.

On Sunday, my colleague and I had already descended from Oltar and watched that descent through the glacier and further over the scree from Šplevta. The descent looked extremely unpleasant; I'd rather not mention the beastly yelling during it.

Since many on this forum, besides information on current conditions, at least for pathless areas or unmarked paths, also seek information on the path itself, I think it's right to emphasize that crossing the glacier in dry conditions is senseless and very dangerous, as my predecessors already wrote.
(+7)like
rokeg23. 09. 2025 22:21:25
First of all, if it had seemed too dangerous to me, I wouldn't have gone into the glacier, but I neither saw nor heard any falling rocks, so I went, and my intention is also to describe what the glacier is like, because there is very little information on the passability of a dry glacier. Over Kotel, unfortunately, it's almost twice as long a path. Especially on foot from Dovje, it's not short. Given that everything was in question, I didn't want to go somewhere where I had no plan B. The path to bivouac 4 also drags terribly, and I would rather take the path over Kriška stena. From the notch, I didn't see a nice way into Kotel; everything is somewhat collapsed.
@di, it should be around 45-50 degrees; at least one guide states so, the distance is about 150 m, with scree about 300 m, at least as I measured.
Alpha, the descent was really unpleasant, but you're exaggerating a bit with the beastly yelling. I yelled reflexively (in fear) because a rock slipped under me, and I badly scratched my arm and hit my back. The rest that was heard was me talking to myself. I would have prevented the fall if I had known how to smuggle the poles on the bus without the driver nagging me to put the backpack in the luggage compartment, and that's how they stole them from me a few years ago. It was nice then to ascend 2500 m without poles... and to this day I walk without them, because I don't know where to get new ones like those good ones, and I don't know how to hide them in the backpack so they wouldn't be seen. I miss them on every descent.
The fact is that I don't like to walk the same path, and I'm also limited by public transport only to Bohinjsko and the "gornjesavsko" valley, as well as to two-day tours. Huts have been fully booked since 2021, so I choose tours with bivouacs, and accordingly the tours, and this is one of the more recent new ones until Mali Oltar, Oltarček, Visoki Rokav, Široka peč, etc., become accessible to me.
I would be glad for information on where to go in picture 16. Along the visible gully or more to the left?
(+4)like
asdf24. 09. 2025 01:11:47
"and don't know how to hide them in backpack so not seen"

Folding poles (like those in the link below) should fit into the backpack.

https://www.leki.com/int/en/Khumbu-Pro-FX.One-TA/65420711125
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bagi24. 09. 2025 06:48:19
@rokeg ... excellent poles for packing in the backpack are the Italian Fizan Compact 4 (here). The pair weighs only 340 g, folds to 51 cm, material aircraft aluminum. Moreover, they are extremely cheap, which made me quite skeptical at first. But no need, I've tested them more than thoroughly velik nasmeh. The price is low due to robotic production, highly valued on American *long distance* trails too.
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lijaneja24. 09. 2025 07:00:28
Rok, from the top of the ozebnik descend approx. 45 meters in length to the distinct narrow gully. From there the gully leads slightly right. After 18 m of elevation it ends at a nice stance. From there it bends slightly left, where the hardest part of the ascent to V.R. is, where 'gravel guys' on descent must use rope... You can go next year with me if you'll carry it.nasmeh
This is a picture of the top of the ozebnik from the viewpoint above the first pitch.1
(+5)like
rokeg24. 09. 2025 08:17:28
Excellent. Thanks for suggestions. I had some really good Leki that didn't fold while hiking, because most others did for me.
Lijaneja, thanks for description. Climbed the mentioned gully and pic 17 taken from stance above it. Top of gully has suspicious jammed stone. From there seemed too hard so turned back rather than risk, but must learn abseil by next season. Rope I carry gladly. cool
(+2)like
lijaneja24. 09. 2025 09:25:50
Aha, so you know up to the rock. Well, that's the hardest part I mentioned above. The jammed rock is proven and very helpful. There I help myself with friction when climbing, above the rock left on the wall, which has some useful holds.
(+1)like
seinfeld24. 09. 2025 10:45:40
Rokeg, you deserve all respect already for traveling by public transport.
Car drivers with every ride as close as possible to start, abuse the environment for own pleasures.
(+6)like
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