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Tičarica, Škrnatarica and Dovški križ

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JusAvgustin3. 08. 2018 22:37:57
Bravo! This is a post as it should be. Awesome! Congratulations.
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skalaš703. 08. 2018 23:27:09
Good tour and of course pics, all congratulations and safe onwardnasmeh!
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dprapr4. 08. 2018 12:02:58
Nice hike!
The nicest approach to Škrnatarica is from Gulc first along the ridge to the plateau (nice view into the Amphitheater), left traverse and almost in the middle between the ridge and the gully up to the summit.
What is the correct name of the hill above Tičarica? Pšenk or Peščenk?zmeden
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jbs4. 08. 2018 17:03:31
I found the name Pšenk on the Dovje parish website, which has interesting descriptions of various paths and off-trails in Vrata:http://www.zupnija-dovje.si/images/prenosi/stezice/vrata.htm
What is more correct, I don't know.

Does the approach to Škrnatarica you mention go roughly like this as shown in the picture?
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dprapr4. 08. 2018 17:36:22
Yes, more or less.
Here too at the "left bend", at the end of the ledges, there is one exposed passage, but much easier than the one back left under the summit.
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ppegan15. 09. 2020 19:37:58
A colleague told me about the off-trail from Gulc, rather quickly, so something isn't quite clear to me. If you tackle Škrnatarica from this side, do you have to climb over that 5-meter jump that everyone writes about? Apparently not, that you avoid it from this side and get quite "comfortably" to the top nasmeh
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dprapr15. 09. 2020 20:14:10
Exactly like that.
If you're returning the same way back, you have to be careful to hit the easiest passage. Up top there's scree and the descent passage is poorly visible.
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ppegan15. 09. 2020 20:25:36
Drago, thanks nasmeh I'll put a big guy there so we don't miss it mežikanje How would you rate the climbing difficulty, if there is any?
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dprapr15. 09. 2020 20:30:11
Only that passage when you turn right upwards smells like a II, the rest is less.
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jax15. 09. 2020 22:01:27
Wait, do you actually get right to the top - so no need to climb even the summit block? That would be good to know. There's no technical difficulties over Tičarica either and you get nicely right under the Škrnatarica summit, but to the very top you still have to climb. The summit block is actually more III than II.
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ppegan16. 09. 2020 07:01:51
@jax, that's right. Drago confirmed my assumptions, so we'll have to try this route mežikanje Drago, thanks once more for the reply nasmeh
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di23. 08. 2021 09:50:40
Higher on the path from the gully to Škrnatarica it's possible to step onto its ridge too. Has anyone tried that - would you also get to the top technically easier (avoiding the last 5 m) with such an approach?
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Trobec2. 07. 2024 19:19:35
The tour doesn't match the title in one detail, since the start is from Črlovec, but still I'd rather not open a new thread about crossing this ridge velik nasmeh

So to the gully without any issues...steep velik nasmeh In Črlovec parking is still the old way for now. The gully is already heavily worn, in the middle section there's a rotten block, so some drytooling. The block to the top seems harder to me than last year, maybe some piece broke off? Although it doesn't look like it. But across that section a new prusik has been set. Left of the corner it's much easier (some II), but also much more exposed.

Ridge...at times heavily damaged. Otherwise nicely scenic. Towards the window we still rappel. Considering we already have the rope with us...feels safer. From Dovški križ down without any issues.

https://trobec.blogspot.com/2024/07/precenje-skrnatarica-dovski-kriz-2962024.html
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LISAC2. 07. 2024 21:51:21
Congrats Trobec nasmeh Great tour.
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Trobec3. 07. 2024 13:10:32
Thanks nasmeh next time also that missing part from the title velik nasmeh
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LISAC4. 07. 2024 18:02:45
Trobec, that one over Tičarica, I'm sure, is a unique feat nasmeh
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dprapr4. 07. 2024 20:47:19
Definitely better in the opposite direction than in the title. To DK via Kopic.
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Trobec5. 07. 2024 09:16:12
Yes, I was thinking the same for next time in reverse direction. At least at the window it's easier in the other direction... same for the most damaged part of the ridge. Only from Škrnatarica it's apparently a bit harder to hit the easiest passage from the top if you're going down there for the first time. I'm talking about Gulce, not the gully.
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jbs5. 07. 2024 11:35:07
@Trobec... descent (or ascent) from Škrnatarica is possible also to the east directly to Tičarica...
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Trobec5. 07. 2024 14:34:00
I just looked at that now, that SE subpeak, so probably one has to go over it... but since I haven't seen any description yet I suspected there might be some trap hidden on the slope... say in the form of nasty broken blocks mežikanje
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