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Tičarica, Škrnatarica and Dovški križ

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jbs3. 08. 2018 22:33:41
For some time, I had planned the ridge between Škrnatarica and Dovški križ, but Bagi's report tempted me to tackle it via the cirque Med plazmi and Tičarica. On Wednesday at 5 a.m., I started from Poldov rovta, still in the dark to the junction of the Rdeči potok, Brinje, and PP paths, then along PP to the cirque Med plazmi. On PP, one needs to watch to climb high enough in the second gully to catch the path on the other side. I went too horizontally, so I hunted up and down for a while to catch it. From the cirque Med plazmi, then directly upward beside and through the gully to the rock wall that closes the cirque halfway. Bypass it on the left and continue ascending to the picturesque rock pile (above it the cirque flattens, then rises toward the Škrnatarica–Dovški križ ridge), from which we ascend scree and gravel to the right toward the wall, where we reach a distinct and wide grassy ledge leading around the hill. On the ledge, we then encounter a few jumps that can be bypassed. On the other side, a steep little valley opens up toward Tičarica and Škrnatarica. The terrain is quite steep and slippery (grasses); if heading to Tičarica, watch not to go up the slope too early (in that case already ascending toward Škrnatarica), but traverse upward toward the middle of the valley and then up the other side, where we steeply ascend to Tičarica. From Tičarica, continue along the ridge toward the mighty rock mass Pšenk, the start of the Škrnatarica ridge. At that point, I did not go left to Škrnatarica, but under Pšenk's walls along comfortable grassy ledges traversed right toward Gulce, as I also planned Kukova špica. The traverse runs almost horizontally at the height of the Gulce saddle, directly under the wall; only one spot is somewhat more exposed, otherwise very comfortable. When reaching the scree under the couloir of the "normal" route to Škrnatarica, cross it to the Gulce saddle. On Kukova špica at 8 a.m. I checked the couloir to Škrnatarica and found it completely dry (no winter gear, as I knew except that couloir the rest of the planned route was dry; if the couloir were still snowed in, I would return under Pšenk and continue to Škrnatarica from there; this is a comfortable variant for anyone not wanting to struggle through the couloir, especially on descent). The couloir was not as loose as expected. The two jumps are not too demanding. A special chapter is, of course, the approach to the Škrnatarica summit. Having descent gear and knowing I could get down anyway, I climbed to the summit (left side of the rock). I myself descended without harness and rope. For descent aid, a thin auxiliary rope is available on the right side, currently in fairly good condition; everyone must judge for themselves. Anyway, ascent to the very summit of Škrnatarica is not mandatory for continuing the ridge. The ridge to Dovški križ can be spiced up according to needs and abilities. The south side is mostly not extremely precipitous, but quite wide; still, some moderately exposed traverses, up-and-down jumps in notches are unavoidable. Not knowing exactly what awaited and how long it would take, I followed the easier southern variant where there are some cairns (next time more directly), then en route climbed intermediate peaks to admire the Amphitheater. Surprised to arrive at Dovški križ after one hour from Škrnatarica at 10 a.m., despite a really slow pace. Having plenty of time, I also did Oltar, spiced with ascent and descent over the slab notch (not the right bypass). On Oltar at 11:30. Descent from it as usual tedious (slower than ascent). Did not go to bivouac, as the scenic descent over Brinje "stuck" with me. Must say the Brinje descent was very comfortable. The lower part over Rdeči potok always drags for me. Over Brinje too, a substantial part descends scree, not as long but in much better condition. Then down a soft grassy pathlet; from Brinova glava, due to steepness, very quickly down. At the car exactly at 14h.
Days above Triglav.1
In the tarn Med plazmi.2
Along and up the gully.3
To the left past the rock barrier.4
To the rocky pile...5
...from where we climb to the wall on the right, where a passage around the hill awaits us.6
On the other side a view to Tičarica opens up...7
...and towards Škrnatarica8
Steeply up to Tičarica9
View from Tičarica towards Škrnatarica, Pšenka, Gulca and Kukova špica. The passage to Gulca goes directly horizontally under Pšenka wall.10
Passage to Gulca.11
The passage is mostly very comfortable.12
We cross the scree under the gully to Škrnatarica.13
And we are at Gulce saddle from where we are quickly at Kukova špica.14
View from Kukova špica to the Amphitheatre. It can be seen that the gully to Škrnatarica is steep.15
In the gully.16
Škrnatarica. Over the notch hangs an auxiliary rope that is about half the length of the notch.17
On Škrnatarica18
Along the southern side of the ridge towards Dovški križ.19
Views into the Amphitheatre from intermediate peaks.20
At the window.21
And here I am at Dovški križ.22
Also on Oltar, which since my last visit two weeks ago has gained quite a few more little men.23
On the Oltar.24
Across Brinje dol, also over scree.25
From Brinova glava such a view accompanies us constantly.26
(+16)like
JusAvgustin3. 08. 2018 22:37:57
Bravo! This is a post as it should be. Awesome! Congratulations.
(+2)like
skalaš703. 08. 2018 23:27:09
Good tour and of course pics, all congratulations and safe onwardnasmeh!
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dprapr4. 08. 2018 12:02:58
Nice hike!
The nicest approach to Škrnatarica is from Gulc first along the ridge to the plateau (nice view into the Amphitheater), left traverse and almost in the middle between the ridge and the gully up to the summit.
What is the correct name of the hill above Tičarica? Pšenk or Peščenk?zmeden
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jbs4. 08. 2018 17:03:31
I found the name Pšenk on the Dovje parish website, which has interesting descriptions of various paths and off-trails in Vrata:http://www.zupnija-dovje.si/images/prenosi/stezice/vrata.htm
What is more correct, I don't know.

Does the approach to Škrnatarica you mention go roughly like this as shown in the picture?
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(+2)like
dprapr4. 08. 2018 17:36:22
Yes, more or less.
Here too at the "left bend", at the end of the ledges, there is one exposed passage, but much easier than the one back left under the summit.
(+1)like
ppegan15. 09. 2020 19:37:58
A colleague told me about the off-trail from Gulc, rather quickly, so something isn't quite clear to me. If you tackle Škrnatarica from this side, do you have to climb over that 5-meter jump that everyone writes about? Apparently not, that you avoid it from this side and get quite "comfortably" to the top nasmeh
(+1)like
dprapr15. 09. 2020 20:14:10
Exactly like that.
If you're returning the same way back, you have to be careful to hit the easiest passage. Up top there's scree and the descent passage is poorly visible.
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ppegan15. 09. 2020 20:25:36
Drago, thanks nasmeh I'll put a big guy there so we don't miss it mežikanje How would you rate the climbing difficulty, if there is any?
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dprapr15. 09. 2020 20:30:11
Only that passage when you turn right upwards smells like a II, the rest is less.
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jax15. 09. 2020 22:01:27
Wait, do you actually get right to the top - so no need to climb even the summit block? That would be good to know. There's no technical difficulties over Tičarica either and you get nicely right under the Škrnatarica summit, but to the very top you still have to climb. The summit block is actually more III than II.
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ppegan16. 09. 2020 07:01:51
@jax, that's right. Drago confirmed my assumptions, so we'll have to try this route mežikanje Drago, thanks once more for the reply nasmeh
(+1)like
di23. 08. 2021 09:50:40
Higher on the path from the gully to Škrnatarica it's possible to step onto its ridge too. Has anyone tried that - would you also get to the top technically easier (avoiding the last 5 m) with such an approach?
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Trobec2. 07. 2024 19:19:35
The tour doesn't match the title in one detail, since the start is from Črlovec, but still I'd rather not open a new thread about crossing this ridge velik nasmeh

So to the gully without any issues...steep velik nasmeh In Črlovec parking is still the old way for now. The gully is already heavily worn, in the middle section there's a rotten block, so some drytooling. The block to the top seems harder to me than last year, maybe some piece broke off? Although it doesn't look like it. But across that section a new prusik has been set. Left of the corner it's much easier (some II), but also much more exposed.

Ridge...at times heavily damaged. Otherwise nicely scenic. Towards the window we still rappel. Considering we already have the rope with us...feels safer. From Dovški križ down without any issues.

https://trobec.blogspot.com/2024/07/precenje-skrnatarica-dovski-kriz-2962024.html
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(+8)like
LISAC2. 07. 2024 21:51:21
Congrats Trobec nasmeh Great tour.
(+2)like
Trobec3. 07. 2024 13:10:32
Thanks nasmeh next time also that missing part from the title velik nasmeh
(+1)like
LISAC4. 07. 2024 18:02:45
Trobec, that one over Tičarica, I'm sure, is a unique feat nasmeh
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dprapr4. 07. 2024 20:47:19
Definitely better in the opposite direction than in the title. To DK via Kopic.
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Trobec5. 07. 2024 09:16:12
Yes, I was thinking the same for next time in reverse direction. At least at the window it's easier in the other direction... same for the most damaged part of the ridge. Only from Škrnatarica it's apparently a bit harder to hit the easiest passage from the top if you're going down there for the first time. I'm talking about Gulce, not the gully.
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jbs5. 07. 2024 11:35:07
@Trobec... descent (or ascent) from Škrnatarica is possible also to the east directly to Tičarica...
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