Neues Lucknerhaus - Großglockner (along the Studlgrat ridge)

Access to starting point:
Through the Karawanks Tunnel, we drive past Spittal towards Lienz. At the end of Lienz, we turn right towards Kals and Matrei. After approximately 20 km in the settlement Huben, a little before Matrei, we again turn right towards Kals. There are then another 13 km to Kals. From Kals to the parking lot at Lucknerhaus (1920 m) we drive on the panoramic road Kalser Grossglocknerstrasse (toll) and park there.

Route description:
We park on one of the two large macadam parking lots at the mountain hut Neues Lucknerhaus at 1918 m by the torrent stream Kodnitzbach. The beginning of the path runs for a short time on the right side of the torrent, then we cross it over a footbridge and on the other side in a gentle ascent continue on the road all the way to the mountain hut Lucknerhütte (2241 m). Further, the path-trail ascends quite steeply towards the mountain hut Studl-Hütte (2802 m).
At the mountain hut there is a junction. To the right is the path to the mountain hut Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (3454 m), we go straight up onto the glacier Teischnitz-Kees and on it along the rocky gentle ridge Luisegrat all the way to the entrance to Studlgrat (3200 m). On the glacier we must pay attention to numerous crevasses. Before the entrance to the ridge we prepare appropriately, as the ascent on Studlgrat belongs among alpinistic routes with a grade UIAA III-IV, mostly II. Therefore, at the entrance to the ridge, one must be aware that such an ascent requires considerable experience and knowledge of belaying, high-altitude climbing, making anchors, belaying the second in the rope team, orientation, fitness, altitude problems, tour planning,... If there is not enough of this, such an ascent can be undertaken only with a mountain guide or experienced alpinist, provided there is sufficient fitness. The beginning of the ridge is climactically still quite easy. During climbing we reach the so-called Frustückplatz-breakfast place (3550 m) and also a warning sign on which it is written that if we have used more than 3h to get here, we should turn back. The most difficult part is still above us. The ridge is also almost never completely snow-free. The most suitable time for the ascent is from May to September. The rock itself is very good for climbing. Above the breakfast place there are some larger smooth slabs and short verticals over which there are aids for us (pitons with rings and without, ropes with knots, steel cables). Finding passages is also orientationally quite demanding at certain points. Once the most difficult and most exposed part Kanzel (pulpit) is behind us, there are no more major problems to the summit.
From the summit we can descend on a much easier path over Kleine Grossglockner, past the mountain hut Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (3454 m) and over the glacier Koednitz-Kees further into the valley on one of the numerous paths that we see below the glacier. Alternatively, we can go right past the mountain hut Studl-Hütte past which we went on the ascent. For this ascent, most descriptions give 8-10h for the ascent and 4-6h for the descent. Due to the large elevation difference, it is sensible to do the tour in two days. First day to the hut Studl-Hütte (2802 m), second day to the summit and descent to the valley. The hut is open from May to September, exactly depending on snow conditions.

Along the route: Lucknerhütte (2241m), Studl-Hütte (2802m)

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