Alpine Expedition China 2011

Today, July 4, 2011, the alpine expedition China 2011 is departing from Brnik airport, also supported by the Alpine Association of Slovenia. The expedition, which will last until August 12, 2011, consists of leader Aleš Holc (Alpine Section PD Kamnik) and members Peter Juvan and Igor Kremser (both Academic Alpine Section).



The expedition is heading to the still largely unexplored alpine area of Xuelian in China's Xinjiang province. The Xuelian mountain group is part of the eastern Tian Shan range, located in NW China. The main peak of the group is Xuelian Feng (6627 m), and around it from the north side there are several independent (five-)six-thousanders whose up to 2500 m high walls are interesting for climbing in alpine style. The area offers objectives of both moderate and great difficulty.



The only ascent to the summit was made in the 1990s from the south by the Japanese. From the north, there have only been two expeditions in this area to date. In 2008, Bruce Normand was the first to explore the mountains from the north with his team. He returned the following year and together with two American climbing partners they climbed some routes, and finally a new route in Xuelian west for which they were awarded the Golden Ice Axe.



DEFINED EXPEDITION OBJECTIVES:

First ascent on Xuelian Northeast (6231 m) and climb at least one of its unclimbed walls.

Carry out the first ascent of Xuelian Feng (6627 m) from the north and the second on the mountain.



More about the expedition members:

Aleš Holc, expedition leader, born in 1975, alpinist and instructor of the Alpine Section Kamnik. So far in 18 years he has completed over 500 quality climbing ascents in rock, ice and alpine ski descents in Slovenia, Europe, South America, Tian Shan and Himalayas.



Peter Juvan, born in 1976, alpinist of the Academic Alpine Section Ljubljana. So far in 5 years he has completed over 250 quality climbing ascents in rock, snow, ice and mixed terrain in Slovenia, Europe, North America, Caucasus and Pakistani Himalayas.



Igor Kremser, born in 1987, alpinist of the Academic Alpine Section Ljubljana. So far in 6 years he has completed over 300 quality climbing ascents in rock, ice and mixed terrain in Slovenia, Europe, South America and Himalayas.



Duration of the China 2011 expedition: from July 4 to August 12, 2011.



Planned expedition itinerary:



1. day Arrival in Urumqi

2. day Urumqi (formalities)

3. day Urumqi – Ili

4. day Ili – Zhaosu – Xiate village

5. day Xiate valley – 1st trekking day to base camp

6. day Trekking to base camp

7.-36. day Base camp – climbing

37. day Base camp – Xiate

38. day Xiate – Urumqi

39. day Urumqi – flight to Slovenia

40. day Arrival in Slovenia



Website link to the expedition: http://kitajska2011.aao.si/cilji-odprave/.



We will also follow the expedition and its progress on our PZS website, where you will be able to read messages from the members and the expedition leader.