rokeg - Recent messages

Is anyone going above 4000m somewhere after 12.8. and would take me along? Since it would be my first, it would be good if it's technically easier.

Thanks for the information. I also read the descriptions, but this gully seems quite crumbly and vertical.

On Tuesday I take the bus to Vrata. Past bivouac 4 I head to the SE ridge of Dolkova špica. I catch the cairns quickly, but on the second grassy section the cairns go quite right. Here I make the first mistake and turn left too soon into a distinct gully and after a chimney and on gravelly ledges return back to the cairn. This alone takes me more than half an hour. Then it is nicely cairned to the scree below the summit of Spodnja Dolkova špica, but there doubt appears. I kept too far right, but at all passages it did not exceed grade two. I think 2532 m is just the edge of the ridge with a cairn, the actual summit of Spodnja Dolkova špica (2541 m) is a bit further. To the summit of Dolkova špica there are no more difficulties, the ridge is quite wide in several places, only one notch is a bit harder to climb. The stamp is still unusable.
Rogljica was again unsuccessful, it seemed too vertical for grade two. Since there is still some time, I decide for Škrlatica. On the descent a short shower catches me, but since the weather is still unpredictable, I abandon the idea of Rakova špica. I descend to bivouac 4, where I sleep. There was nobody. The next day I go to Križ and Gubno, and over Kriška stena to Kranjska Gora to the bus.

Around Kamniška Bistrica?

All correct. You can also see Špičasti vrh, Muzari and Žbevnica.
You can continue.

Very close. The peak has its own name.

Those "little hats" gave away the location, but I couldn't remember where exactly that wooden house is.
Well, if I continue ,
Peak name?
Maybe names of peaks behind?

Somewhere on Paški Kozjak?

All OK. Passing riddle to lijaneja.

I'd say it's Rutarski Vršič?

It seemed to me that we had to go pretty directly up, but I didn't see pegs there and don't know if I'd dare to climb down... The idea was even to go from the top towards the Altar, but it seems even harder.
You're right, lijaneja. With a car I'd rather go abroad somewhere higher; I have plans and projects for several centuries, no trouble.
I checked again and it says around 45 degrees, but the steepness is uneven. In between there's another almost vertical step that's probably iced over in winter. I didn't measure it myself and have no idea how much it is.

Excellent. Thanks for suggestions. I had some really good Leki that didn't fold while hiking, because most others did for me.
Lijaneja, thanks for description. Climbed the mentioned gully and pic 17 taken from stance above it. Top of gully has suspicious jammed stone. From there seemed too hard so turned back rather than risk, but must learn abseil by next season. Rope I carry gladly.

First of all, if it had seemed too dangerous to me, I wouldn't have gone into the glacier, but I neither saw nor heard any falling rocks, so I went, and my intention is also to describe what the glacier is like, because there is very little information on the passability of a dry glacier. Over Kotel, unfortunately, it's almost twice as long a path. Especially on foot from Dovje, it's not short. Given that everything was in question, I didn't want to go somewhere where I had no plan B. The path to bivouac 4 also drags terribly, and I would rather take the path over Kriška stena. From the notch, I didn't see a nice way into Kotel; everything is somewhat collapsed.
@di, it should be around 45-50 degrees; at least one guide states so, the distance is about 150 m, with scree about 300 m, at least as I measured.
Alpha, the descent was really unpleasant, but you're exaggerating a bit with the beastly yelling. I yelled reflexively (in fear) because a rock slipped under me, and I badly scratched my arm and hit my back. The rest that was heard was me talking to myself. I would have prevented the fall if I had known how to smuggle the poles on the bus without the driver nagging me to put the backpack in the luggage compartment, and that's how they stole them from me a few years ago. It was nice then to ascend 2500 m without poles... and to this day I walk without them, because I don't know where to get new ones like those good ones, and I don't know how to hide them in the backpack so they wouldn't be seen. I miss them on every descent.
The fact is that I don't like to walk the same path, and I'm also limited by public transport only to Bohinjsko and the "gornjesavsko" valley, as well as to two-day tours. Huts have been fully booked since 2021, so I choose tours with bivouacs, and accordingly the tours, and this is one of the more recent new ones until Mali Oltar, Oltarček, Visoki Rokav, Široka peč, etc., become accessible to me.
I would be glad for information on where to go in picture 16. Along the visible gully or more to the left?

After spending a long night in the bivouac, I head to Šplevta just as the sun rises. Then I go to the Kopice ridge. To the ridge it goes nicely, as the predecessor describes. One traverses the scree and follows a pathlet across the grassy shoulder, then a slight descent and traverse into a wide gully, where one follows the most logical direction towards the saddle. Let us not be misled by the well-visible ramp in the middle part, because behind it is a small step; if we go directly up, it is only scree. From the saddle onwards black clouds already threaten me and I do not find a good passage and go along a fallen ledge to grassy slopes and up the ridge. On the summit I get a few raindrops and quickly descend and do not go towards Gornja Kopica at all, but soon regret it as it clears up. I want to go back already, but a strong gust of wind dissuades me from the thought and the risk, and clouds gather again. Pity, because it does not look difficult on the predecessor's pictures. Over Brinje I lose the path again, ascend also to Brinova glava and into the valley, where I wander a bit more because I have a good connection only in the afternoon; this time it went smoothly with public transport and transfers.

Yesterday I took transports and bus to Mojstrana and without a concrete plan headed towards bivouac 2 and midway the idea hit me to try High Rokav. Over scree I went into Rokav glacier. Now, whether passable or not. For me it was passable in a good half hour. First it's really a collapsed drop, then one loose slope with unstable stones. Best to stay right by the wall, first I went left and dropped some rocks down the glacier when crossing it. Caution must be really maximum. But I advise against it due to really bad collapse. At the notch I didn't even find the entry into the initial chimney and first went to Middle Rokav, which also has one quite vertical drop. At the top quite windy. I looked if possible at all to Rogljati Rokav, but probably not via scree. I descended back to saddle and read descriptions for High Rokav. I found the entry where vertical gully, then on ledge everything got stuck. 1h fiddling and didn't know where to go, all seemed too hard for II-III as some guidebooks say and when comparing to climbed IIIs it seemed at least IV here. Then all possible scenarios ran through my head and I decided the mountain waits and descended. No sense challenging. Already to glacier didn't go best. After glacier it went, but once whole step under foot collapsed and lots of debris rumbled down glacier. Very hard to hit stable steps. Since still lots of time I went also to Dovški križ and Šplevta and to bivouac to sleep. Second day I'll describe in other section.