keglevich - Recent messages

Yesterday (11.01.) from Zadnjice valley via shorter path (over Komar) via Dolič we summited Triglav. Snow starts at 1600m height, up to there no issues. At exit to Mulatjero at end of Komar path conditions become quite different. On Mulatjero itself under Dolič wind-blown snow in places (frozen), winter gear mandatory there. Passage over Dolič difficult, we searched possible passages on the spot, classic summer (Mulatjero) passage not possible. On slabs no issues, much less snow than around Dolič. Wall entry not hard, pitons out, Bovška Škrbina nicely filled, before Škrbina a few very dangerous meters - steep frozen ground. On south slab to summit conditions mostly ok, two places below summit very exposed passage, ground very hard, icy. For safety descent to Kredarica (whole path nicely trodden, much less snow than Bovec side, cables mostly out, over Mali Triglav all aids out, traverse nicely passable) and descent to Krma valley.
From Zadnjice we were first in the last days, no footprints in snow anywhere, obviously for a reason. Ascent via Dolič in current conditions due to lots of snow very hard in places. Recommend only to very good terrain experts, some places almost require two ice axes, due to wind (yesterday summit -19, Kredarica -15 at 3pm and fairly strong wind) conditions even harder. Definitely recommend path from Krma via Kredarica.

Since descent to Kredarica for safety almost necessary, two pairs of trekking poles left behind us. Left them at ca. 2500m on scree below wall. If someone despite described conditions path takes them by and can pick them up, I promise at least symbolic reward.

Best regards to all and good luck! Tomaž.