Traverse of 103 Peaks of the Central Ridge of the Karawanks from Trbiž to Slovenj Gradec
It's already been 2 weeks since this ultra project that my Carinthian running buddy JanezS and I undertook. Writing about such a royal project can't be done in just a few words, and in these two weeks I simply haven't been able to find enough time or energy, as I'm super busy at work right now due to vacations and consequently super tired, so I couldn't write anything proper at home after work, plus I was without my home computer for a month, and on top of that I've had or still have issues with my sports watch that records such feats.
Why do such a project? Because I've been doing these kinds of things for over 10 years. And the idea had been simmering in me even before, when I wasn't into such stuff yet. Not exactly in this form and timeframe, but something like: one day I'll go (emphasis on go) along the Karawanks from the Triple Border as far as possible. Very undefined. Something similar happened with the Slovenian Mountain Trail, but that one matured much longer. Last year, my Styrian running friend Nino declared that the Karawanks are the most beautiful Slovenian mountain range for him and that he'd like to go in one go from the Triple Border to Koroška. I got hooked instantly, as I'd already been thinking about it beforehand, as mentioned. All last fall and part of winter before so much snow fell that scouting trips were no longer possible, I used for scouting. Just in December I did at least ten, as the weather was nice without precipitation. Of course, I already knew many sections from before, as I've been regularly and deliberately going to the mountains for a long time and it's basically my way of life. Especially, I love ultra trails, competitive ones and even more those I organize myself. And the Karawanks are practically at my doorstep. During this time, Nino and I realized we have very different views on traversing the Karawanks: I advocate the central ridge, direction from west to east and visiting all peaks, Nino is for direction from east to west, all Slovenian Karawanks from Croatian to Italian border, advocating visiting only main ridge peaks. So two completely different projects and each has his own now. I believe we need to do as many such ultra projects as possible, write about them and promote them, which I've been doing for years.
Besides both Karawanks Mountain Guides by authors Stanko Klinar and Klemen Janša, I used all possible maps available in Slovenia and the Pešpoti website and thus determined the exact route and all 103 peaks of the Central Ridge of the Karawanks starting at the chapel of Mary of the Snow near the hamlet of Zagrad by Trbiž and ending at the Postman's Hut below Plešivec in the village of Sele near Slovenj Gradec. Otherwise, the central ridge of the Karawanks is supposed to be 120 kilometers long. Side ridges didn't interest me in this case. The last two months I used for final scouting trips, especially some of the hardest sections. I decided, if possible, to climb all peaks, and if a mountain has multiple main peaks, visit at least one. Only at Gamsovke on the Košuta ridge I knew right away I wouldn't reach any of the four main peaks, as it's simply too exposed and demanding for me and I'd have to settle for the western side peak. As practice later showed, Janez and I really managed to reach or climb all peaks except the mentioned Gamsovke. There personally without proper protection I have no business, and I don't enjoy such exposures either.
Janez and I started the project on Thursday 30.06.2016 at 4:20 near Trbiž, finished it on Monday 04.07.2016 at 18:45 in Sele near Slovenj Gradec. Gross time is thus 4 days 14 hours and 25 minutes. Unfortunately, we didn't make it to the finish already on Sunday in the late evening (night) hours as planned and wanted, because heavy Sunday rain and significant cooling prevented it, costing us at least 8 hours of Sunday active trail time. Otherwise, every day (except Monday) we started very early (usually right after 4 am) and finished early enough before dark (between 17:40 and 20:40). Especially we took advantage of the long days, which are very favorable for such projects.
First day we first climbed Peč (Triple Border) and Petelinjek, descended to Korensko sedlo where our driver Anita was waiting with backpacks, then up again to Jerebikovec, followed by Kamnati vrh, Visoka Bavha, Nizka Bavha, Grpišca, Tamarča, Vošca, Zajčnik, Znoternica and Trupejevo poldne. There we were supposed to meet our first sherpa - Luka, who had bad luck finding access from Srednji vrh to Trupejevo poldne, so we didn't wait and continued to Ojstri vrh, Maloško poldne and Kresišče, where we finally spotted him running behind us. On Črni vrh he caught up and finally we got fluids, as we'd been without for an hour or two, and midday heat was quite intense. From the bushy Črni vrh, which also has a very narrow ridge, we descended to Sedlič saddle (Jepca), then steeply up to Jepca again, right after is the Annahuette bivouac, where we had agreed lunch of pasta brought from Belca valley by sherpa and cook Fren. Follows long ascent to Kepa, in between we detoured south to Koroška Mala Kepa. Finally we crawl to the top of famous Kepa, where we also catch some breeze and finally breathe air that practically wasn't there before, as bushes and midday sun created an airless cauldron. Especially Janez resented the ascent. In fast pace we continue to Dovška Mala Kepa, approaching from south, Gubno and then follows demanding steep Visoki Kurjek (direct gully approach from south), which I've visited fourth time in the last half year. Then Lepa Plevelnica, unplanned descent to spring below Plevelniki where we drank spring water and refreshed, as we were again without fluids, the heat that day was really bad. I didn't think we'd need such quantities of drink either. To Mlinca saddle it's just a bit, then another solid ascent to Dovška Baba, where another of our sherpas – Samo was waiting with drinks and fruit. There Golica was already visible, but first had to deal with Hruški vrh and Klek, plus another solid descent to Jekljevo sedlo before ascent to Golica. Since we felt great and early enough, we also did Krvavka and Mala Golica, so arrived at Koča na Golici at 19:50 as planned and satisfied. That day we conquered 29 peaks! Definitely the day we did best, plus this part of Karawanks is most romantic and not too demanding. At the hut the support team Anita and Maruša were already there. Janez practically fell asleep tired as soon as we got the room, as he had sleep deficit, as usual night before such projects he can't sleep, me the endorphins of the first successful day kept up a bit longer. And the nice girls at the hut prepared goulash for me, free pancakes on top. Sleep in nice room – excellent.
Second day started again very early at 4:20, from Suha saddle we plunged into wet grass of Ptičji vrh, descended to next Kočna saddle and long ascent to first of Struška ridge peaks – Korenščica was ahead. The summit itself is nothing special and I wouldn't mention it, if on the otherwise flat pasture meadow an unpleasantness hadn't happened in form of spectacular meeting of my chest with a pointed upright rock. It happened in a flash, even today after two weeks I feel consequences, at night in bed I still have trouble finding position to sleep poorly, about sneezing or coughing I can't even think, let alone do it, pains are horrible. Can't even swim. No other explanation than cracked rib. Breathing from then on about 70%, no deep breaths till finish. But on adrenaline, you go on. Especially if desire and will are big enough. We also do Veliki vrh Struške and Zijalke and descend to Seča saddle. From here starts Belščice ridge consisting of Brezov vrh, Mali vrh and Vajnež. Follows Stol ridge. First Potoški Stol, then king of Karawanks Stol (2236 m) and Mali Stol, where Prešernova koča is. Since our agreed sherpa (cousin Anže) canceled delivery due to unavoidable work obligations, we had to resupply at the hut itself. There prices as if in a prestige hotel on the Azure coast. After refreshment it starts. Ridge traversing and conquering practically ended for that day. If first day we usually conquered all peaks ridgeway and from west with rare exceptions, now it went like: ascent to peak where possible and back same way, then traversing far below ridge to next mountain. Tiring, demanding, strenuous, dangerous and slow. Each listed was demanding, we climbed most, some up to grade II: Krkotnik, Celovška Špica, Zahodni Jelenček, Vzhodni Jelenček, Svačica, Grad (probably less than 50 people stood on this summit till now, on this occasion thanks to cousin Anže who previously led me to this demanding two-thousander, otherwise I wouldn't know the right approach), then mighty Vrtača where black rain clouds were gathering and threatening nearby, and Mala Glava, from which we descended breakneck into idyllic Suho Rušje valley where sherpa Polona waited. Quick jump first to Zelenjak and even quicker to Palec, then together in anoraks and raincoats we ran down the valley towards Zelenica. Rain luckily just grazed us and took pity, probably real thunderstorm raged around Radovljica and Kranj then. We had luck, the real one. Before assault on Vzhodni mož, one of Na Možeh peaks, sherpa Rado joined us and together we climbed this very demanding, bushy rocky tower. Without bushes they certainly wouldn't see me there. Bushes give sense of security and branches useful for aid in ascent or descent. Follow Triangel and Povna (Ravna) peč on Ljubeljščica ridge and second day successfully ended with 23 conquered peaks. Plan was to go to Korošica high pasture, but thought of quick home jump too tempting. Day ended at Ljubelj at 19:20, Rado drove us home to Naklo where I slept in my bed. Home royal dinner prepared by Anita, unfortunately slept surprisingly – catastrophically bad.
Third day start at Ljubelj where Anita brought us back, again at 4:20, which was obviously routine. Before stepping on slender Košutica, we first conquered Rjava peč and Grunt, down to Hajneževo sedlo then through two fixed cables and quite narrow ridge. Then real via ferrata on Košuta ridge, our longest mountain ridge, straight up to Veliki vrh. To Škrbina, lowest point of ridge, follow Toplar, Kofce gora, Malo Kladivo and mighty Kladivo, from which narrow ridge descent to Škrbina where sherpa and companion Marjan with heavy backpack already waited. Together continued on Košuta. In sequence Pungrat gora, Pišenca, Klada, Tegoška gora, Užnik (from which we observed climbers on via ferrata on neighboring north spectacular rock tower Cjajnik), Perilnik, Macesje, Ostrv and king of Košuta - Košutnikov turn. Section between Perilnik and Turn is quite demanding and not for those with height problems. Descended towards Gamsovke, stepped on its western side peak, Zahodna Gamsovka remained pious wish as said. Breakneck and steep descent to idyllic Zgornja Dolga Njiva high pasture where sherpas Lea and Janez waited. Again resupply, Marjan said goodbye and went with them to valley, we steeply up to Obliče and Tolsta Košuta. Especially Vzhodni Oblič has demanding approach which we did from east. Before returning down to pasture quick to Mala Košuta and lunch time. Soup, meat risotto, veggie risotto, salad and other goodies served by Anda who likes going to Himalaya and knows how. With full bellies continued to Plešivec and Pečovnik, after descent towards Komatevra sherpa Klemen hosted us at old almost ruined border hut. Then through very steep southwest couloir we fought and literally climbed last meters of Virnikov Grintovec. Close call. Descended usual path towards Jezersko. There Anita greeted us briefly. Then crossed border as local Iztok waited there and showed approach to Roblekov vrh, then accompanied us on Austrian side towards Pristovški Storžič. Before final ascent we parted and rushed to summit. There unexpectedly Klemen with daughter Nino appeared (Klemen top mountain runner, ski touring rep and double SPP record holder) to cheer us. Happy surprise. Down easy via ferrata towards Jezerski vrh, Anita came towards us and at 20:40 stage ended. Conquered another 26 peaks, total 78 on account. 25 left for last day. But weather forecast bad, very bad. Anita drove us to well-deserved rest at Jezersko as they unprofessionally canceled our reservation at Pavličevo sedlo because we didn't confirm early enough. How could I know at noon if we'd make it to Pavličevo sedlo in evening?
Presumably last day started same place we ended, at Jezerski vrh, even 5 minutes later than usual. But before reaching settlement Bela below Pavličevo sedlo, to which descend far into valley from Jezerski vrh at only 800m asl, rain started wetting us. Without backpacks and with umbrellas we hurried to Pavličevo sedlo and support car. There equipped with raincoats and all needed, took backpacks and umbrellas, said bye to Anita and went into unpleasant wet thicket. If previous three days we walked mostly marked mountain paths, well trodden border paths, cleared border strip, rocks, stones, now that irrevocably ended. Section from Pavličevo sedlo to Olševa horrible. No path, orient only by border markers, very time-consuming, sometimes cleared border strip now mostly overgrown, especially this season, sometimes impassable due to fallen trees, mainly ferns at least to waist or very high grass, if raining, wind blowing and temp steadily falling, deadly cocktail. Soaked to skin in moment, with raincoats barely fought through extremely steep slope from Rigeljski vrh up to Sadovnikov then also steep Covnikov vrh. Later Borovnikov, Pastirkov, Kolarjev and Strevčev vrh completely indistinct and don't know when really on summit. Before Potočka zijalka, start of Olševa ridge, due to total soaking and temp drop already freezing so much we only thought where to escape not to get hypothermic. Only option quick descent quite far from ridge to Podolševo at tourist farm Rogar, though not planned. Somehow managed to call our sherpa Roland not to ascend and wait at Potočka zijalka. Met at Rogar where spent 4 hours warm and dry together, they somehow dried our clothes and stuff, in wet underwear and borrowed t-shirts Janez and I at dining table enjoyed farmer's platter and sip of schnapps. Rain didn't stop, still drizzling and sprinkling. Finally headed towards Potočka zijalka but already at Obel kamen, westernmost Olševa ridge peak, wet again and temp at almost 2000m very low. At Govca, highest Olševa point, stopped second and continued descent running also to freeze less. All pure torment, no bit of pleasure. Fought to Govševa planina, start of second also horrible section almost identical to between Pavličevo sedlo and Olševa. Somehow survived Kos, Kukužev, Jelenov and Mozganov vrh, in between Snežnik, so five indistinct peaks between Olševa and Peca and descended at 17:40 to Luža planina on Austrian side. Totally soaked and completely frozen, shaking like puppies. Rain finally fully stopped. At planina top prepared sherpa and cook Nejc waited who fed us excellent pasta and sweets, mainly first changed to dry clothes and boots. I had three t-shirts, jacket and triple socks on. Still freezing so hard no other solution but quick to mountain shelter at Kumru in Koprivna nearby. End so early and before Peca ridge!? That day despite huge effort conquered only 14 peaks. On one hand disappointment, other joy alive, warm and dry. At Kumru well taken care, rested and slept, Monday morning no rush like other days as only 11 peaks left. Even tourist breakfast.
Fifth day started from Luža planina towards Peca only at 7:05. On Peca ridge in sequence: Veška Kopa, Bistriška Špica, Križnik, Končnikov vrh, Velika Glava, Kordežova glava and Mala Peca. Past Koča na Peci substantially down to valley to Park Kralja Matjaža where excellent lunch served. Over Pikovo where hut closed down to Črna. Long time on asphalt from Mušenik over Žerjav to Jazbina, start of last real ascent (1200m elevation) to Uršlja gora. Unbelievable turnaround, walking asphalt extremely hot, previous day almost hypothermic.
Ascended past Koča na Naravskih Ledinah, right after conquered 100th peak – Naravski vrh, up to Plešivec highest Uršlja gora point. In hut last sandwich from backpack, then quick down towards Kala where stepped on Mali vrh and last peak – Plešivška kopa (Kozarnica). At 18:45 Anita already waving in front of Poštarski dom in Sele pri Slovenj Gradcu. Goal achieved, Janez and I cooperated excellently and complemented, mainly team worked for success. Definitely our long-term experience on various ultras helped success.
What else to say at end? Dreams fulfilled, central ridge traverse unique experience, enjoyed all days except unlucky Sunday. Especially that our route wasn't just 120km as stated in publications on chain length from Trbiž to SG. Must consider we did 103 ascents and 103 descents, greatly extends distance. Some approaches not from west but almost circled some mountains approaching from south or east. With sports watch I recorded data, last fifth day already morning failed due to empty batteries in measuring, then haven't transferred data yet, hope not all lost and some solution exists. By feel and our daily km capacity, total distance surely well over 200km. Fully reliable data I recorded daily is at least ca 16,000m ascents. Photographed practically all peaks except some totally indistinct and uninteresting in Sunday rain and cold. Janez already posted pics on hribi.net (current conditions/ Karawanks/theme).
Consequences? As far as I know Janez mentioned nothing. He's a machine – continuous walking machine. Quite scary and respectful. Named him - comrade K24!
For me: both little toes in poor state, especially right one, gained 4kg as legs rudely swollen but all settled long ago. Only cracked rib still bugs intensely, worst acute problem abstinence crisis that probably lasts till next Ultra…….