Monte Rosa 18.7.-20.7.2014
After a week of monitoring the weather, Friday finally came when we set off early in the morning to conquer (almost for everyone) the first 4000ers. 9 of us decided for the trip. Marko came first with the van, picked up Milek, Marta, Neža and Marjan in Šentjur, then Valter and me (Rajko) in Štorje, Jože in Arja Vas and Majda in Lukovica. Fun fact of the trip is that we are from seven municipalities in Slovenia! After 8 hours of driving we arrived in Alagna and after a short snack bought tickets for 2000 vm shortened ascent (7 hours walk). The cable car took us to 3260 m high Punta Indren. Feeling remained good despite quick altitude change. Here our ascent really began. We hiked to Gnifetti hut at 3647m sensing thinner air for the first time. According to plans we did acclimatization tour to Vincent Pyramid 4215 m the same day. We had a reserved room at Gnifetti hut where we left excess luggage. At 17:00 four of us headed to Vincent Pyramid. The glacier above the hut was mostly well covered but still served some hidden crevasses. Approaching 4000 m most of us felt the limits for the first time when ascent to the top no longer depends on fitness, desire and motivation. We reached Vincent Pyramid summit (4215m): Jože, Majda, Milek and me. Followed quick descent to the hut and monitoring condition which didn't worsen except minor headaches and aspirin. Dinner, laughter, overall good team mood improved even those small altitude issues. Sleep, alarm at 5, breakfast, nice weather, before 7 we were already roped and on the way to Monte Rosa summits, long path across glaciers that rises slowly tested some wills, but feeling was much better, quick acclimatization previous day succeeded. We decided to climb Zumsteinspitze 4563 m first. Zumsteinspitze offered nice airy east ridge, last 50 m rocky, where at least for a while you forget oxygen lack. At summit at 11:15, photos and toast.
Great views from top rewarded our effort. We decided to ascend also Signalkuppe 4554 m, where the highest hut in Europe stands, Regina Margherita with lab and observatory. On return we conquered also Balmenhorn 4167m summit.
Third day, before departure in the morning, weather changed suddenly and raindrops accompanied us to cable car at Punta Indren saddle. We passed Mantova hut which we bypassed on wall during ascent. When we exited gondola, sun shone in Alagna again, full of nice impressions we returned home.
The expedition fully succeeded in everything, first experiences above 4000 m, 4 conquered summits above 4000 m, no major acclimatization issues, enough good weather and of course unforgettable experiences. On Monte Rosa were: Valter Jelen, Rajko Grosek, Milek Javornik, Marta Močivnik, Neža Močivnik, Marko Artič, Marjan Marzidovšek, Jože Polanšek and Majda Kovačič.