bagi - Recent messages

Furcia Rossa III is a scenic peak and the central point of the old military via ferrata Via della Pace. A few neighboring peaks have the same name, but this one is the only one accessible also to us, ordinary hikers . But the ascent to it and the continuation is not exactly easy. The via ferrata reaches a completely manageable C category, but a bigger problem are numerous rubble-covered ledges without protection. However, protections are present on all really demanding passages and not only that. The initial part across the vertical, yellow-orange wall is extremely picturesque, as numerous ladders follow one after another and quickly lift you several floors higher. A wonderful thing .

We started from the Cappana Alpina hut deep in the valley. There is also a large arranged parking lot, which they charge a modest 10€/24 hours. Modest considering our conditions of course . Then we ascended along the shady path 11 all the way to the break in the slope next to the peak Col de Locia and continued along the Fanes valley. Just before the shepherd's hut Ucia de Gran Fanes we turned right onto path 17 and soon again right onto a hidden military shortcut towards the high-mountain cirque Grava del Vallon Bianco. There the shortcut and the official path merge. Only the ascent to the attractive bivouac della Pace under the mighty wall of Monte Castella followed. Here during the First World War was an Austro-Hungarian outpost, and numerous remains from those times are visible far around.

The via ferrata also originates from the First World War and the path to it actually starts already at the bivouac. But to enter it, you still have to process some hiking terrain. Throughout, FR (Furcia Rossa) markings appear, which we followed all the way to the end of the via ferrata far, far ahead. The entire route is namely long and given the terrain requires good fitness. The real thing starts at the previously mentioned vertical, seemingly impassable walls. The demanding crossing along iron paths and rubble-covered ledges is a good kilometer long, and in between we of course also visited the central point, the peak Furcia Rossa III. It has a modest cross, but an impressive bench of a special kind. Immediately after the peak the VB marking also appears, which means another wonderful peak full of military remains … Valon Bianco.

The continuation was similar to before. Numerous passages followed one after another, we even had to cross an overhanging wall. The protections are flawless, although some places call for renovation. These walls are quite crumbly, as evidenced by numerous smaller collapses and an abundance of scree. But with great caution, progress is within safe limits. Soon we were at another attraction of this route, a huge overhang under which the path leads. A little more and we joined the more touristy path to Valon Bianco.

We also visited the Ucia de Gran Fanes alpine pasture, which in recent years has opened its doors to hikers. Food and drink are available, even accommodations have been newly arranged. For this Alta Via 1 is most responsible, which we already hiked years ago (here). But what is happening now is comparable to the pilgrim Camino Frances in Spain. Along the Fanes valley wind columns of huge backpacks on two legs, and the spoken language is from all parts of the world. Americans stand out, whom you immediately recognize by their guttural English. We call them turtledoves . They book huts months in advance, so it is impossible to get accommodation in the nearby Rifugio Lavarella and Rifugio Fanes. We too had to sleep in a tent at that time.

There was still the descent back to the valley and a nice, but quite hot day was behind us. Down below it had namely warmed up to almost 30°C. Incredible. We have never experienced anything like that, even though we have been visiting the Dolomites for quite some time.

Coordinates of the starting point ( parking lot at Cappana Alpina ) : 46.5596792N, 11.9813467E

After two years of break we went to Spain again this year, this time on the coastal path Camino de Mar. This is an official pilgrimage path that starts in the town of Ribadeo and ends in the town of Ferrol. There are two variants, the shorter, more inland one, which is about 190 km long. We walked the longer, more coastal one, which runs along the Atlantic and we covered a good 280 km. Both are located in Galicia, a beautiful and mystical land .

We decided on Camino de Mar after a wonderful experience with Camino dos Faros on our previous visit to Galicia and on the recommendation of an acquaintance. There was not much written about this path on the internet, I could barely find GPS tracks. But we really needed them. I have never encountered such a poorly marked Camino, and I have been visiting Spain for 12 years. Nor such a lonely one, although I have walked in many places. On the entire path we were completely alone, not even daily hikers were to be seen.

There are no pilgrim accommodations like albergo anywhere, except at the beginning and end of the path, and even those are there because of Camino del Norte or Camino Inglese. We stayed in various hotel rooms, which are very cheap and of quite adequate quality . Breakfast was often included in the price. For two people many private albergues on more visited Camino paths would be more expensive, and we would sleep on bunks and crowd in shared bathrooms. So we have no complaints about accommodation, but it is wise to book accommodations at least a day in advance.

Expectations were high, so what are the impressions ???

According to the rare descriptions this should have been a super experience walking along the mighty Atlantic, but it turned out quite differently. Camino dos Faros from previous years simply set too high standards that will be hard to surpass. Even after longer consideration and time distance this year's Camino de Mar cannot even approximately be equated with the previously mentioned one. There was simply too much asphalt and hard surfaces of coastal promenades. On the entire path this is at least 70% or rather more, often also most of the day. The path does not only run by the sea, but often goes quite far from it, even very high. We climbed highest even over 600 m and then we looked at the sea deep below us.

Because of all this I place Camino de Mar alongside the northern path Camino del Norte. In fact together with Camino Inglese it is also its alternative to Santiago, but lonely and almost not marked. In short …. whoever likes Norte, may also like de Mar. Whoever is looking for the experience of Camino dos Faros, should look for it elsewhere. More about our trip follows later …

A few more links for comparison …

Camino del Norte … KLIK
Camino dos Faros … KLIK

Passo Peregrino is an excellent starting point for many interesting tours, so we decided to stay right here . This time we went in the opposite direction than the previous day, more towards Marmolada. Our basic goal was the almost three-thousander Ombretola, then the side Palon de Jigolé and the unexplored peak Cima Cadine. All quite easy and leisurely, for a change from the recently traversed Bruno Federspiel.

A few kilometers and elevation gains were still accumulated. We started from the same starting point as the previous day and took the promenade road 607 towards the hut Rif. Fuciade. Promenade because during the day crowds of tourists flock along it. To the hut the road is almost flat and as such suitable for old and young, with hiking shoes or slippers .

From the hut onwards more serious terrain begins. We had to climb to the pass Passo delle Cirelle, which is not quite easy. The introduction is more or less a comfortable path through green landscape, then follows a good two kilometers of ascent over extensive scree fields. Good that we had shade . In between there is also a hidden branch for the wildest part of the path Bepi Zac, which we had the opportunity to get to know years ago. A little more and we arrived at the pass.

There is a bunch of directional signs and we chose the far right path 612B. This leads towards the hut Rif. Falier in the neighboring valley, but also towards today's goal. The terrain is full of rubble everywhere, the paths are well-trodden and easily passable. Some caution was still needed, as some parts are exposed. We were quickly at the top, from where you could see far around. But we moved a bit lower, as at this height an unpleasant cold wind was blowing.

Complete calm we found just below the summit of Sasso Vernale, which still awaits our visit. At its foot is a former military base, where we found warm shelter for rest. Otherwise, remnants of military presence are visible everywhere, from wooden remains of barracks, to barbed wire and countless cans, even bones were piled up. Given the size probably human, so I didn't want to photograph them.

To the saddle Passo delle Cirelle we returned the same way, then turned right to Cima Cadine. We haven't been here before, but from the top there is the best view of the prominent and at the same time highest peak in this range … Cima dell'Uomo. We visited it last year and despite the time distance it is still very high in the ranking of difficulty in our mountaineering career. Followed by a visit to the nearby military outpost, then once again descent to the saddle Cirelle. From there we then turned to the unmarked peak Palon de Jigolé. The path is well visible, only in the summit part more caution is needed.

Again we returned to the saddle, this time finally and followed the return over extensive scree fields to the valley. There was no shade, so the sun was burning like crazy. For refreshment we stopped at the hut Rif. Fuciade, where it was full of people. We also encountered crowds on the final return to the starting point, only at the slightly secluded lake Lago di Pozze was there peace . To the starting point we then had only a few minutes.

After a few years we visited the Monzoni range again, which geographically belongs to the Marmolada group. The goal was to revisit the ridge path Sentiero Bruno Federspiel, but in the opposite direction than years ago. For the return I chose the direction through the Val Monzoni valley, where we haven't walked yet. Crowds are not to be feared here, especially not Koreans, who have adopted the Dolomites this year . In fact we were completely alone on the ridge, only a few goats next to us were shitting thickly on the path . Also on the return we met people only near the huts.

The ridge path Sentiero Bruno Federspiel is part of the trio I described in previous posts. Also belonging here are Sentiero Franco Gadotti and the entire Alta via Bepi Zac. These are military paths from the First World War that run in the wild environment of the high mountains. All together it is a mountaineering delicacy *par excellence* and I warmly recommend it to experienced mountaineers. Each has its own character, none is exactly easy.

First we climbed to the Passo delle Selle pass, where we visited the hut of the same name in a beautiful location. There the Bruno Federspiel path also begins. It mostly runs in the ridge area, only a few times it retreats from impassable terrain. Harder, especially rocky passages are secured with a steel cable, in many other places I would not have refused it either. Especially crossing extremely steep slopes is completely without protection. The entire path is approximately 6 km long, for which we took four and a half hours.

We finished the ridge path at the Forcella la Costella saddle, from where we descended into the Val Monzoni valley unknown to us. First we visited the pleasant Rifugio Vallaccia hut, which is of the private kind and was built only in 1985. It has 20 beds and is a good starting point for the surrounding peaks. From there we continued deep down and at the lowest point descended a good 500 m relative to the Forcella la Costella pass. Quite a bit, but everything was interesting in turn .

When we only started ascending we visited another hut, this time Rif. Taramelli originating from the distant year 1904. It is the only preserved hut of this kind of cube shape, it was built as a base for geological research of this area. In appearance it is really quite special, special is also its supply. It has neither a cable car for cargo, nor an access road. This ends a bit lower by the torrent bed, cargo for the hut is then carried in backpacks. And exactly regarding this we experienced another surprise. For half a liter of beer and freshly brewed coffee we paid only 9€. We could hardly believe it, at least compared to our prices .

There followed only a long ascent to the Passo delle Selle saddle, where we devoured sausage. Nice places these are, the weather also served, so we had nothing bad . This time we did not stop at the hut, but only descended to the starting point at Passo Peregrino on the same path as in the morning. More in the photo story …

Coordinates of the starting point (Passo Peregrino): 46.3780494N, 11.7938878E

This summer is quite hot, so we prefer to look for more airy locations. One of those is the Kanin range, where there is no shortage of beautiful routes. This time we chose Žrd, where we hadn't been for ages. I almost forgot what the approach to this nice summit looks like .

We started at the Nevea parking lot, where they don't know parking parasites. It's exactly the same on the nearby plateau Pecol. From the parking lot we headed towards the Gilberti hut, but before that we turned onto the transverse botanical path towards the Bela peč saddle. From the saddle to the Marušič bivouac the walk is pure pleasure, the same goes to the junction towards Žrd. The ascent is not quite for everyone though. The path is more of a trail, quite rocky in many places. The ridge is narrow and airy, although you don't feel any special exposure. But you do feel its length . The ridge just doesn't seem to end, and there is quite a bit of up and down. But the view is nice, the finale a reward for persistence . Just don't go up in case of thunderstorms. Žrd is known as an excellent lightning catcher, which shows on many broken rocks along the ridge.

We returned via Vrh Grublje, which is definitely worth visiting. It's not far from the marked path, the ascent and descent are not complicated at all. To finish we visited the more demanding Bila Peč and filled the day nicely. In Gilberti we rested, then we just descended back to the starting point. More in the photo story …

Starting point coordinates: 46.3871606N, 13.4733297E

We visited the Val Fiscalina valley once more, except that at Rif. Fondovalle hut we chose a different direction than the previous day. The goal was the scenic peak Croda Fiscalina, which we had visited only once so far. That was back in 2019, when we walked the beautiful circular route *Dolomiti senza Confini* (here). This time too a circular route was planned, only a different one … up the Val Fiscalina Alta valley, down the Sasso Vecchio valley. The ascent was long in pleasant shade and only at Zsigmondy-Comici hut did the sun really hit us. But we were already high up and temperatures were more pleasant .

Past Pian di Cengia hut we continued to the summit, then on an exceptionally beautiful path continued towards Cima and Locatelli hut. It was Sunday and accordingly full of visitors. So we did not stop and immediately descended on the already known path 102 into the valley. For the grand finale it drizzled a bit again, but we were already at the end of a really beautiful loop. I recommend this to everyone without a bad conscience . More in the photo story …

Starting point coordinates (parking opposite Rotwand gondola) : 46.6815417N, 12.3631914E

It's true, the day before there were plenty of them too, surprisingly also stag beetles . Photographed a bit away from Hude police ...

We first visited Val Fiscalina valley last year and really liked it . That's why we decided on another visit this year, as it's a good starting point for many routes. Since we don't like repeating the same paths, this time I chose the ascent via Sasso Vecchio valley all the way to Rif. Locateli hut and thus a direct view of Tre Cime. This was followed by a visit to the valley on the opposite side of the mountain ridge, that is Campo di Dentro valley. There is another hut there, this time Rif. Tre Scarperi. This was key for rest before ascending the ridge again on the planned circular route. On it we unknowingly also hiked the summit Monte Casella di Dentro, then followed a deep descent into the original Fiscalina valley and return to the starting point.

At Rif. Locatelli hut it was crowded as usual, except we felt as if we were in Korea . There really are a lot of Koreans this year, almost exclusively at more touristy destinations. Most are wrapped in wide clothing with long sleeves, hats down to half the back, masks up to the eyes and light gloves. We were already hot with minimal clothing, I don't know how they endure it.

Another thing is the price comparison with ours. At such an eminent location and given the mass visit they could skyrocket, but that's not the case. Half a liter of draft Weizenbier costs less than e.g. a lukewarm can of regular at Prešernova on Stol. But it's exactly the same in Vandeli on Sorapiss, where goods are delivered exclusively by helicopter or on foot with a backpack. Understand who can . More about the entire route in the photo story …

Starting point coordinates (last BUS stop in Fiscalina valley) : 46.6663739N, 12.3537719E

A few days in Fanes were enough for us and we needed a move. The Sorapiss mountain group and the lake of the same name in its heart attracted us the most. There it's usually full of people, but we started early, and the main tourist season hadn't begun yet. Of course we didn't expect to be alone, but we didn't expect so many various *influencers* in the first morning sun either. Everyone is taking photos, they even have cameras, we also met an American with curlers in her hair . When we overtook her on the way we looked a bit thick, but later we quickly figured out the reason. For filming by the lake she of course took off the curlers, arranged her head decoration and posed all fresh in front of the lens in various poses .

We viewed the lake from all angles, and as an addition we witnessed a helicopter rescue. Some girl injured her knee and couldn't go further on foot. They loaded her into the helicopter and took her to the valley. Otherwise we also listened daily to the familiar sound high in the sky, which always meant only one thing …. new rescue.

We found our peace as soon as we turned onto path 216, which climbs high above the lake. Tourists don't go there, we met only a few real hikers. We were completely alone on path 223, which winds through the scree below the ridge. The path is beautiful because it crosses the scree more or less horizontally, and on top of that we enjoyed deep shade. We exited at the Forcella Faloria saddle, then continued into the valley on path 212, also called DolomiEu. This is a beautiful alternative to the dusty road that winds from the valley all the way to Rif. Faloria hut. Then there was still the forest access to Larieto pasture and a nice loop was completed .

Starting point coordinates (Larieto parking): 46.5509372N, 12.1759242E

Super Miri, congratulations . We went there two weeks ago. What are the conditions like now?

Our main goal this time was the via ferrata Giovanni Barbara, for which we never found time over the years. There are so many interesting peaks and approaches to them in the area that we always tackled something else. But this was a calculation without the innkeeper . The very first waterfall right at the start quickly stopped us. Due to snow melting it was so full of water that we would have needed either swimsuits or neoprene clothing to cross the path under it . The continuation was a complete unknown, so we turned back instead. A tough decision, but safety comes first. Sniff, sniff … see you next time.

We still had time left, so we changed our goal and headed towards the high-mountain lake Lago di Limo and the hut Ucia de Gran Fanes. Both lie on a plateau reached by a bike path through the Val Fanes valley, also marked as hiking trail number 10. The valley is interesting in itself, so despite the length we were not bored. From the via ferrata an additional seven kilometers are added in one direction, altogether over nine from the parking lot. But what of it, the weather was great, nature too, and on the way back we had already forgotten the unrealized original goal .

Starting point coordinates (Sant'Uberto): 46.6030664N, 12.1062878E

We slept in La Villa, where the temperature at eight in the evening was still 28°C. Crazy . We had no choice but to head to Fanese from the northern side the next day. We had already walked there and knew that the shade would accompany us for quite a long time. The intermediate goal was the saddle Forcella de Medesc, and then we would decide on the direction and final destination.

And indeed it was so. Pleasant coolness accompanied us for a long, long time . Also at the saddle we were already so high that the temperature was no longer bothersome. However, the original goal, the three-thousander La Varella, fell through because the extremely demanding northern access was still partially under snow. Instead, we preferred to choose the slightly lower Sas dla Crusc, which is located on the opposite, western side of the massif. We reached it via the scenic and nice hiking path 12B and 7B. Surprisingly, we were completely alone on the summit, which we experienced absolutely for the first time. Usually among the crowd you look for a place to rest. Also on the descent via the Monte Cavallo ferrata we met only three people, which was completely incomprehensible to us.

Only at the inn Rif. Santa Croce was everything as usual. It was swarming with people, but we were served quickly. However, since the previous visit, the seating area has expanded significantly, which of course indicates ever-increasing visits. We generally observe this in all more touristy locations in the Dolomites. There are more visitors every year, so the offer is expanding more and more, and in many places parking fees are also being introduced. But these are by no means at our level, far from it. The most expensive was a completely acceptable 10€/24 hours at an eminent location. I assume that at this price they have no loss, nor do they drive away guests . Ahead of us was only the hot return to the starting point, this time via the nice path 13.

Coordinates of the starting point (La Villa - near the football field) : 46.5768444N, 11.8973214E

Simply, two idiots have no money for the gondola, so they rush on foot to the top .

Posts on social networks. The more such achievements like look where I am, the more *important* they are .

In search of shade and coolness in the hot Dolomites we remembered the beautiful path from Cappana Alpina to Lagazuoi Piccolo. With an early start shade is guaranteed on most of the ascent which we made good use of. The sun only caught us in the upper part and it was pleasantly fresh all the way to the top. Around the same time the first gondola people started flocking towards Lagazuoi Piccolo which was quite interesting to watch .

There are huge numbers this year really huge numbers of Koreans who you immediately recognize by their long head coverings masks up to the eyes and light gloves. For them this is completely normal and has a historical touch but in real life here it looks quite strange. There are also many pole people some sort of Homo Sapiens who is obviously only capable of progressing with the help of a long pole raised high above the head. These pole people observe the world a bit higher than normal people but therefore stumble over every stone on the path. Their living habitat is mainly tourist peaks reachable with as little effort as possible. No wonder this evolution is interesting .

We returned via the ski slope all the way to Rif. Scaltoni hut and in between also visited the scenic peak Cé de Salares. The sun was already heating properly and reminded us again of protective cream and head covering. Exactly this I carried this year in the Dolomites more than in the previous few years combined. Only the big finale followed with the descent into the valley on the morning path.

Starting point coordinates (parking at Cappana Alpina): 46.5596792N, 11.9813467E

DAY 8 ...

The last day of Camino de Mar came up, the grand finale . But the finish line was still far away, and we also planned to wash our rags for the continuation on Camino Ingles. So we got moving in the morning and started in complete darkness. But we didn't worry about the light. Street lamps kindly lit the streets for us, and as usual the digital map took care of the direction. We had long given up on the official markings. The sun rose quite late in Spanish style and it turned into a nice day.

The first half of the route was some kind of classic from previous days and quite solid as far as the surface goes. There were some pleasant trails, some gravel, and of course I mustn't forget the asphalt. Regarding the ambiance there was all sorts too, from walking in the hinterland to the sea with numerous sandy beaches. But this time right by the sea we came across huge dunes, which are incredibly extensive and high. It's hard to imagine the immense power of the sea that created them. We even walked up a concrete hill on the sand itself.

But our final destination was of course Ferrol, a large coastal town with about 60,000 inhabitants. There Camino de Mar also officially ends. We walked to it the second half of the way through a densely populated landscape and I can say that the kilometers inflated as we went . The town lies in a deep bay, almost a fjord, and a long coastal road has to be walked to reach it. This of course turns countless times, so we never exactly knew when we would reach the goal. That we were grinding asphalt is self-evident and that it was damn hot too. In between we had to take quite a few breaks, which is not quite usual for us. Anyway, we slowly dragged ourselves into Ferrol and after a few more kilometers into its port area. There a nice sign is placed on the pier and here after eight days we finished Camino de Mar .

Happy … absolutely, excited … NO. I wrote more about this Camino in the introduction, but this story is already behind us. We still had the path to Santiago ahead, so welcome Camino Ingles (tukaj) .

DAY 7 ...

After a stormy night we were greeted by a sunny day . After a really hearty breakfast and saying goodbye to the hostess we set off towards new adventures. To start we took another look at the charming village of Santo André de Teixido, then tackled the steep slope. The continuation was also up and down, this time on forest paths, and the night's storms were very noticeable. The vegetation was soaked and we had to put gaiters on our shoes. This kind of wetness soaks footwear faster than ordinary rain. Checked multiple times. Later we ended up on asphalt again, where all such worries disappeared.

This day was marked above all by extensive areas of dried eucalyptus. We encountered abandoned forests for kilometers and kilometers. As far as I managed to find out, the eucalyptus weevil is most responsible for this. Adult beetles and their voracious larvae feed on young leaves, buds and shoots. Because of this the trees lose leaf mass and the ability to photosynthesize, so they quickly perish in the heat. In addition, eucalyptus in this area is a monoculture, mainly due to rapid growth and quality wood. The damage is therefore even greater.

Another specialty are surfers. We saw a whole bunch of them, dressed in neoprene and with boards under their arms. The beaches are ideal for them, pure sand, sea without dangerous reefs, waves just right. There are many camps, board rentals and learning centers for aspiring wave riders. In addition we encountered vans right by the coast, loaded with equipment and a little space for beds. Another world, a world of enthusiasts who enjoy the waves.

We too enjoyed the sunny day and arrived at our accommodation in the hamlet of A Torre. More by luck than anything we came across an open village tienda, a shop in the local sense, just before parking ourselves in bed. In this sort of shops they usually have everything, from forks and rakes to bread, drinks and whatever else might be found. As long as it's there, the rest doesn't matter .