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Furcia Rossa III is a scenic peak and the central point of the old military via ferrata Via della Pace. A few neighboring peaks have the same name, but this one is the only one accessible also to us, ordinary hikers . But the ascent to it and the continuation is not exactly easy. The via ferrata reaches a completely manageable C category, but a bigger problem are numerous rubble-covered ledges without protection. However, protections are present on all really demanding passages and not only that. The initial part across the vertical, yellow-orange wall is extremely picturesque, as numerous ladders follow one after another and quickly lift you several floors higher. A wonderful thing .

We started from the Cappana Alpina hut deep in the valley. There is also a large arranged parking lot, which they charge a modest 10€/24 hours. Modest considering our conditions of course . Then we ascended along the shady path 11 all the way to the break in the slope next to the peak Col de Locia and continued along the Fanes valley. Just before the shepherd's hut Ucia de Gran Fanes we turned right onto path 17 and soon again right onto a hidden military shortcut towards the high-mountain cirque Grava del Vallon Bianco. There the shortcut and the official path merge. Only the ascent to the attractive bivouac della Pace under the mighty wall of Monte Castella followed. Here during the First World War was an Austro-Hungarian outpost, and numerous remains from those times are visible far around.

The via ferrata also originates from the First World War and the path to it actually starts already at the bivouac. But to enter it, you still have to process some hiking terrain. Throughout, FR (Furcia Rossa) markings appear, which we followed all the way to the end of the via ferrata far, far ahead. The entire route is namely long and given the terrain requires good fitness. The real thing starts at the previously mentioned vertical, seemingly impassable walls. The demanding crossing along iron paths and rubble-covered ledges is a good kilometer long, and in between we of course also visited the central point, the peak Furcia Rossa III. It has a modest cross, but an impressive bench of a special kind. Immediately after the peak the VB marking also appears, which means another wonderful peak full of military remains … Valon Bianco.

The continuation was similar to before. Numerous passages followed one after another, we even had to cross an overhanging wall. The protections are flawless, although some places call for renovation. These walls are quite crumbly, as evidenced by numerous smaller collapses and an abundance of scree. But with great caution, progress is within safe limits. Soon we were at another attraction of this route, a huge overhang under which the path leads. A little more and we joined the more touristy path to Valon Bianco.

We also visited the Ucia de Gran Fanes alpine pasture, which in recent years has opened its doors to hikers. Food and drink are available, even accommodations have been newly arranged. For this Alta Via 1 is most responsible, which we already hiked years ago (here). But what is happening now is comparable to the pilgrim Camino Frances in Spain. Along the Fanes valley wind columns of huge backpacks on two legs, and the spoken language is from all parts of the world. Americans stand out, whom you immediately recognize by their guttural English. We call them turtledoves . They book huts months in advance, so it is impossible to get accommodation in the nearby Rifugio Lavarella and Rifugio Fanes. We too had to sleep in a tent at that time.

There was still the descent back to the valley and a nice, but quite hot day was behind us. Down below it had namely warmed up to almost 30°C. Incredible. We have never experienced anything like that, even though we have been visiting the Dolomites for quite some time.

Coordinates of the starting point ( parking lot at Cappana Alpina ) : 46.5596792N, 11.9813467E

After two years of break we went to Spain again this year, this time on the coastal path Camino de Mar. This is an official pilgrimage path that starts in the town of Ribadeo and ends in the town of Ferrol. There are two variants, the shorter, more inland one, which is about 190 km long. We walked the longer, more coastal one, which runs along the Atlantic and we covered a good 280 km. Both are located in Galicia, a beautiful and mystical land .

We decided on Camino de Mar after a wonderful experience with Camino dos Faros on our previous visit to Galicia and on the recommendation of an acquaintance. There was not much written about this path on the internet, I could barely find GPS tracks. But we really needed them. I have never encountered such a poorly marked Camino, and I have been visiting Spain for 12 years. Nor such a lonely one, although I have walked in many places. On the entire path we were completely alone, not even daily hikers were to be seen.

There are no pilgrim accommodations like albergo anywhere, except at the beginning and end of the path, and even those are there because of Camino del Norte or Camino Inglese. We stayed in various hotel rooms, which are very cheap and of quite adequate quality . Breakfast was often included in the price. For two people many private albergues on more visited Camino paths would be more expensive, and we would sleep on bunks and crowd in shared bathrooms. So we have no complaints about accommodation, but it is wise to book accommodations at least a day in advance.

Expectations were high, so what are the impressions ???

According to the rare descriptions this should have been a super experience walking along the mighty Atlantic, but it turned out quite differently. Camino dos Faros from previous years simply set too high standards that will be hard to surpass. Even after longer consideration and time distance this year's Camino de Mar cannot even approximately be equated with the previously mentioned one. There was simply too much asphalt and hard surfaces of coastal promenades. On the entire path this is at least 70% or rather more, often also most of the day. The path does not only run by the sea, but often goes quite far from it, even very high. We climbed highest even over 600 m and then we looked at the sea deep below us.

Because of all this I place Camino de Mar alongside the northern path Camino del Norte. In fact together with Camino Inglese it is also its alternative to Santiago, but lonely and almost not marked. In short …. whoever likes Norte, may also like de Mar. Whoever is looking for the experience of Camino dos Faros, should look for it elsewhere. More about our trip follows later …

A few more links for comparison …

Camino del Norte … KLIK
Camino dos Faros … KLIK

New day, new goal. For a rest from the previous day we chose a more leisurely tour, this time to Polinik. The previous evening we had already descended to the former guesthouse Plöckenhaus, where we slept in the parking lot and set off very early towards the summit.

At the beginning we followed the well-known Carnic 403, then the markings directed us more to the left. There followed an ascent through the forest all the way to a pasture of unknown name, from there on the hike was pure enjoyment . The views were beautiful, we also had no complaints about the path above. It led us steadily all the way to the saddle Spielbodentörl, then along the eastern ridge towards the summit. Here the ground is a bit more rocky, but there are no particular difficulties anywhere. The summit is of course an ohoho viewpoint, on top of that we also had wonderful weather.

We returned the same way, because there really isn't any useful alternative. But in front of the hut on the pasture in a nearby trough we found a crate of chilled beer that the shepherds had left for the rare visitors. Commendable .

Coordinates of the starting point (Plöckenhaus): 46.6165622N, 12.9522639E

No, you don't forget obvious frauds despite an immediate complaint . Of course we were far from the only ones, as far as I could find out. The hut is currently closed due to renovation and they don't offer anything, at the same time they're already looking for a new manager.

We drove to Plöcken Pass, a pass over 200 km from central Slovenia. In Italian it is called Passo di Monte Croce Carnico. We have already hiked a lot there and wanted to repeat the via ferrata Senza Confini on Cellon. But it did not go exactly according to plan. The warning from 2023 about the path closure is still present, only it mentions only the via ferrata Steinberger weg. In reality the path is closed already before the entrance to the military tunnels through which we planned to go. Hmm … so on the Austrian side it does not work, time for plan B .

We returned to the pass and on the Italian side headed towards Kollinkofl, or rather Crete di Collina. We approached the mountain via the Cresta Verda saddle, which means the harder access variant. Only the direction is marked, but without any protections or aids. We would call this pure natur . The short introduction at the end of the saddle was still quite decent, almost with hands in pockets, then the rocky slope quickly stood upright. So about a hundred meters of ascent, technically up to grade two, but with a lot of air under the feet.

Hands and feet were fully occupied, also the head, so there was no real desire for photos in this area. Especially difficult are the traverses on centimeter ledges, while under the feet is a direct shortcut to the last parcel. At least three crossings are annoying, one especially. Here smooth rock does not offer real holds, only a few tufts of grass. Here one would help oneself even with teeth, if there was something to bite into . The step from ledge to ledge is namely long and despite several attempts there was no real feeling of reliability. So before the crossing we climbed slightly upwards and a good meter higher carefully returned to the planned route.

Higher up the terrain flattens a little, enough to breathe easier. But the difficulties were not over yet, only the feeling of safety was a shade greater. So the meters of ascent slowly accumulated and after a good 600 meters of ascent from the Cresta Verda saddle we finally saw the summit. A long rest followed, then the descent via the normal route into the valley. This one is also quite concrete for the altitude, but below we spiced it up with a longer walk past the renovated Casera Plotta pasture and the ruined Casere Val di Collina. We had not walked here yet, so it was all the more interesting . The last bit of the path ran along the well-trodden 148 and we were quickly back at the starting point.

Coordinates of the starting point (Plöcken Pass): 46.6022803N, 12.9438692E

Congratulations Bojan for visiting these beautiful places . For the correction on photo 32 many will be grateful to you .

Super, at least I won't have to explore the coastal path of stage 9 this year . Regarding photos 56 and 57 ... we also went right along the rocky shore, because the VA markings led us there. Why this variant is marked and not the left one I can't even imagine .

Col Margherita - Cima Juribrutto - Cima Bocche

This time we explored the granite area of the Dolomites above Passo Peregrino, which geographically still belongs to the Pale. Opinions differ on this, as it is said to belong to the Lagorai group, mainly due to the composition of the soil. It is distinctly of volcanic origin, while the mountains in the immediate vicinity are mostly of sedimentary dolomite and limestone. Anyway, the feeling when walking through this landscape is unusual, especially for the Dolomites .

We started at San Peregrino pass and climbed via path 658 to Col Margherita. There were a lot of visitors here, as there is a gondola and restaurant nearby. Just a little further on we were completely alone. We followed the ridge 695 all the way to Cima Juribrutto and further to Passo Juribrutto saddle. The landscape is really unusually greenish in color with numerous small lakes. It is also full of remnants from the First World War, especially boards from barrack settlements. Some metal parts can also be found, from parts of artillery shells to rusty military cans.

As an addition, at the saddle we thought of another peak, this time a bit off the path. This is Cima Bocche, which is crisscrossed with defensive trenches and ruins of stone structures. Incredible what they did back then and unfortunately still do today. The view from the top is beautiful, especially of Passo Peregrino and the mountains on the opposite side. On the descent we also turned towards the Jellici bivouac. It is of a more basic design, but here I saw for the first time a real urn of a recently deceased mountaineer, embedded in the nearby rock.

Then came the return to Passo Juribrutto saddle, from there a descent past numerous granite boulders. The path between them is built up, probably by the army, all other variants are impassable. Path 628 delivered us quite later into the valley, where we walked the final kilometer or two on a paved but very uncomfortable path. Due to the many stones we had to constantly look under our feet, even though we were walking almost on flat ground. But that also passed and refreshment followed in the nearby hotel restaurant. For information … draft beer was 5€, coffee 2€, scoop of ice cream 1.5€ and that at the central location full of tourists . More about the route in the photo story …

Parking coordinates (Passo Peregrino): 46.3780056N, 11.7944444E

Thx Lino. These mountains are not among the most famous, but some idea always comes in handy .

Passo Peregrino is an excellent starting point for many interesting tours, so we decided to stay right here . This time we went in the opposite direction than the previous day, more towards Marmolada. Our basic goal was the almost three-thousander Ombretola, then the side Palon de Jigolé and the unexplored peak Cima Cadine. All quite easy and leisurely, for a change from the recently traversed Bruno Federspiel.

A few kilometers and elevation gains were still accumulated. We started from the same starting point as the previous day and took the promenade road 607 towards the hut Rif. Fuciade. Promenade because during the day crowds of tourists flock along it. To the hut the road is almost flat and as such suitable for old and young, with hiking shoes or slippers .

From the hut onwards more serious terrain begins. We had to climb to the pass Passo delle Cirelle, which is not quite easy. The introduction is more or less a comfortable path through green landscape, then follows a good two kilometers of ascent over extensive scree fields. Good that we had shade . In between there is also a hidden branch for the wildest part of the path Bepi Zac, which we had the opportunity to get to know years ago. A little more and we arrived at the pass.

There is a bunch of directional signs and we chose the far right path 612B. This leads towards the hut Rif. Falier in the neighboring valley, but also towards today's goal. The terrain is full of rubble everywhere, the paths are well-trodden and easily passable. Some caution was still needed, as some parts are exposed. We were quickly at the top, from where you could see far around. But we moved a bit lower, as at this height an unpleasant cold wind was blowing.

Complete calm we found just below the summit of Sasso Vernale, which still awaits our visit. At its foot is a former military base, where we found warm shelter for rest. Otherwise, remnants of military presence are visible everywhere, from wooden remains of barracks, to barbed wire and countless cans, even bones were piled up. Given the size probably human, so I didn't want to photograph them.

To the saddle Passo delle Cirelle we returned the same way, then turned right to Cima Cadine. We haven't been here before, but from the top there is the best view of the prominent and at the same time highest peak in this range … Cima dell'Uomo. We visited it last year and despite the time distance it is still very high in the ranking of difficulty in our mountaineering career. Followed by a visit to the nearby military outpost, then once again descent to the saddle Cirelle. From there we then turned to the unmarked peak Palon de Jigolé. The path is well visible, only in the summit part more caution is needed.

Again we returned to the saddle, this time finally and followed the return over extensive scree fields to the valley. There was no shade, so the sun was burning like crazy. For refreshment we stopped at the hut Rif. Fuciade, where it was full of people. We also encountered crowds on the final return to the starting point, only at the slightly secluded lake Lago di Pozze was there peace . To the starting point we then had only a few minutes.

After a few years we visited the Monzoni range again, which geographically belongs to the Marmolada group. The goal was to revisit the ridge path Sentiero Bruno Federspiel, but in the opposite direction than years ago. For the return I chose the direction through the Val Monzoni valley, where we haven't walked yet. Crowds are not to be feared here, especially not Koreans, who have adopted the Dolomites this year . In fact we were completely alone on the ridge, only a few goats next to us were shitting thickly on the path . Also on the return we met people only near the huts.

The ridge path Sentiero Bruno Federspiel is part of the trio I described in previous posts. Also belonging here are Sentiero Franco Gadotti and the entire Alta via Bepi Zac. These are military paths from the First World War that run in the wild environment of the high mountains. All together it is a mountaineering delicacy *par excellence* and I warmly recommend it to experienced mountaineers. Each has its own character, none is exactly easy.

First we climbed to the Passo delle Selle pass, where we visited the hut of the same name in a beautiful location. There the Bruno Federspiel path also begins. It mostly runs in the ridge area, only a few times it retreats from impassable terrain. Harder, especially rocky passages are secured with a steel cable, in many other places I would not have refused it either. Especially crossing extremely steep slopes is completely without protection. The entire path is approximately 6 km long, for which we took four and a half hours.

We finished the ridge path at the Forcella la Costella saddle, from where we descended into the Val Monzoni valley unknown to us. First we visited the pleasant Rifugio Vallaccia hut, which is of the private kind and was built only in 1985. It has 20 beds and is a good starting point for the surrounding peaks. From there we continued deep down and at the lowest point descended a good 500 m relative to the Forcella la Costella pass. Quite a bit, but everything was interesting in turn .

When we only started ascending we visited another hut, this time Rif. Taramelli originating from the distant year 1904. It is the only preserved hut of this kind of cube shape, it was built as a base for geological research of this area. In appearance it is really quite special, special is also its supply. It has neither a cable car for cargo, nor an access road. This ends a bit lower by the torrent bed, cargo for the hut is then carried in backpacks. And exactly regarding this we experienced another surprise. For half a liter of beer and freshly brewed coffee we paid only 9€. We could hardly believe it, at least compared to our prices .

There followed only a long ascent to the Passo delle Selle saddle, where we devoured sausage. Nice places these are, the weather also served, so we had nothing bad . This time we did not stop at the hut, but only descended to the starting point at Passo Peregrino on the same path as in the morning. More in the photo story …

Coordinates of the starting point (Passo Peregrino): 46.3780494N, 11.7938878E

This summer is quite hot, so we prefer to look for more airy locations. One of those is the Kanin range, where there is no shortage of beautiful routes. This time we chose Žrd, where we hadn't been for ages. I almost forgot what the approach to this nice summit looks like .

We started at the Nevea parking lot, where they don't know parking parasites. It's exactly the same on the nearby plateau Pecol. From the parking lot we headed towards the Gilberti hut, but before that we turned onto the transverse botanical path towards the Bela peč saddle. From the saddle to the Marušič bivouac the walk is pure pleasure, the same goes to the junction towards Žrd. The ascent is not quite for everyone though. The path is more of a trail, quite rocky in many places. The ridge is narrow and airy, although you don't feel any special exposure. But you do feel its length . The ridge just doesn't seem to end, and there is quite a bit of up and down. But the view is nice, the finale a reward for persistence . Just don't go up in case of thunderstorms. Žrd is known as an excellent lightning catcher, which shows on many broken rocks along the ridge.

We returned via Vrh Grublje, which is definitely worth visiting. It's not far from the marked path, the ascent and descent are not complicated at all. To finish we visited the more demanding Bila Peč and filled the day nicely. In Gilberti we rested, then we just descended back to the starting point. More in the photo story …

Starting point coordinates: 46.3871606N, 13.4733297E

We visited the Val Fiscalina valley once more, except that at Rif. Fondovalle hut we chose a different direction than the previous day. The goal was the scenic peak Croda Fiscalina, which we had visited only once so far. That was back in 2019, when we walked the beautiful circular route *Dolomiti senza Confini* (here). This time too a circular route was planned, only a different one … up the Val Fiscalina Alta valley, down the Sasso Vecchio valley. The ascent was long in pleasant shade and only at Zsigmondy-Comici hut did the sun really hit us. But we were already high up and temperatures were more pleasant .

Past Pian di Cengia hut we continued to the summit, then on an exceptionally beautiful path continued towards Cima and Locatelli hut. It was Sunday and accordingly full of visitors. So we did not stop and immediately descended on the already known path 102 into the valley. For the grand finale it drizzled a bit again, but we were already at the end of a really beautiful loop. I recommend this to everyone without a bad conscience . More in the photo story …

Starting point coordinates (parking opposite Rotwand gondola) : 46.6815417N, 12.3631914E

It's true, the day before there were plenty of them too, surprisingly also stag beetles . Photographed a bit away from Hude police ...

We first visited Val Fiscalina valley last year and really liked it . That's why we decided on another visit this year, as it's a good starting point for many routes. Since we don't like repeating the same paths, this time I chose the ascent via Sasso Vecchio valley all the way to Rif. Locateli hut and thus a direct view of Tre Cime. This was followed by a visit to the valley on the opposite side of the mountain ridge, that is Campo di Dentro valley. There is another hut there, this time Rif. Tre Scarperi. This was key for rest before ascending the ridge again on the planned circular route. On it we unknowingly also hiked the summit Monte Casella di Dentro, then followed a deep descent into the original Fiscalina valley and return to the starting point.

At Rif. Locatelli hut it was crowded as usual, except we felt as if we were in Korea . There really are a lot of Koreans this year, almost exclusively at more touristy destinations. Most are wrapped in wide clothing with long sleeves, hats down to half the back, masks up to the eyes and light gloves. We were already hot with minimal clothing, I don't know how they endure it.

Another thing is the price comparison with ours. At such an eminent location and given the mass visit they could skyrocket, but that's not the case. Half a liter of draft Weizenbier costs less than e.g. a lukewarm can of regular at Prešernova on Stol. But it's exactly the same in Vandeli on Sorapiss, where goods are delivered exclusively by helicopter or on foot with a backpack. Understand who can . More about the entire route in the photo story …

Starting point coordinates (last BUS stop in Fiscalina valley) : 46.6663739N, 12.3537719E

A few days in Fanes were enough for us and we needed a move. The Sorapiss mountain group and the lake of the same name in its heart attracted us the most. There it's usually full of people, but we started early, and the main tourist season hadn't begun yet. Of course we didn't expect to be alone, but we didn't expect so many various *influencers* in the first morning sun either. Everyone is taking photos, they even have cameras, we also met an American with curlers in her hair . When we overtook her on the way we looked a bit thick, but later we quickly figured out the reason. For filming by the lake she of course took off the curlers, arranged her head decoration and posed all fresh in front of the lens in various poses .

We viewed the lake from all angles, and as an addition we witnessed a helicopter rescue. Some girl injured her knee and couldn't go further on foot. They loaded her into the helicopter and took her to the valley. Otherwise we also listened daily to the familiar sound high in the sky, which always meant only one thing …. new rescue.

We found our peace as soon as we turned onto path 216, which climbs high above the lake. Tourists don't go there, we met only a few real hikers. We were completely alone on path 223, which winds through the scree below the ridge. The path is beautiful because it crosses the scree more or less horizontally, and on top of that we enjoyed deep shade. We exited at the Forcella Faloria saddle, then continued into the valley on path 212, also called DolomiEu. This is a beautiful alternative to the dusty road that winds from the valley all the way to Rif. Faloria hut. Then there was still the forest access to Larieto pasture and a nice loop was completed .

Starting point coordinates (Larieto parking): 46.5509372N, 12.1759242E

Super Miri, congratulations . We went there two weeks ago. What are the conditions like now?