Macesna - Recent messages

On vacation in the Dolomites, we climbed these two bold towers above Sella Pass. The second tower (Seconda Torre del Sella, 2598 m) is particularly interesting, as it has a demanding and very beautiful approach. The so-called via normale is a combination of climbing I and II grade, some hiking, and the summit is closed by a nearly 20m high chimney first II then III difficulty.
The towers (most often four are mentioned) are a popular alpinistic goal, there are many routes in their walls in rather compact rock, the beauty of the surroundings and atmosphere are exceptional.
Small parking lot (very hard to get a spot) is right at the top of Sella Pass (2240 m), at hotel Maria Flora. Larger (paid) parking is somewhat further ahead, about 100 vertical meters lower, but we preferred the bus (with overnight in the valley you can get a card for free local buses).
About 40 minutes takes the unmarked path from Maria Flora to the towers, to the foot of the south wall (actually the wall between the towers and neighboring Piz Ciavazes), which from afar looks impossible to cross easily. But it is possible, via ledges and 'canalini'. The start goes over a polished and quite nasty scree-gully, first 3m rated III+. Can bypass it somewhat to the right (II). Then we looked for alpinists' descent traces (if they don't abseil), there are cairns (though visible mainly downhill), sometimes a path, otherwise climb I and II grade in short pitches. Rock is good. Midway there's a fork: left to 'cengia erbosa', grassy ledge leading to 1st tower (Prima Torre del Sella, 2533 m), which we climbed a few days earlier and is lower and easier accessible than 2nd. This time we turn right on path then soon left. Here more climbing. Hardest is the mentioned pitch with chimney at end (II and III, under 20m) on north side, where we belayed once. At chimney top ring on bolts, midway a prusik-equipped rock horn, common in Dolomite rock as we found. From there ledge right to summit, which as expected has little space (even less on 1st tower teeth), summit book not missing. View and whole atmosphere truly stunning; around you pure verticals – wild, real world of bold towers and steep walls, where you penetrated so quickly from friendly green meadows of Sella Pass.
Descent same way of course; down chimney with belay. Info on approach to towers mostly on Italian sites. Orientation not entirely simple: find easiest passages and watch not to follow descent traces from other walls.

In early July we visited this via ferrata. I'm not really a fan of via ferratas, but this one I really like – just the right demanding climbing where you can mostly help yourself with natural holds, quite some air under your feet, above all the magnificent environment of high mountains. Bivouac Borelli (2325 m) serves as the starting point for the alpinistic ascent to Black Needle – Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (3773 m) and then the multi-day traverse of the entire Peuterey Ridge to Mont Blanc. It is located right at the threshold of a very wild world – all spires, rocks towering into the sky, waters rushing over the wall, snows ... Serious and magnificent. Even the rare grasses here have thorns ...
To the start of the path we get by turning into Val Veny valley in Courmayeur and driving to the camp. There is a parking lot, signs for the path appear soon after. To the entrance into the climbing part is less than an hour's walk, the entire path to the bivouac takes 3 hours. Return is by the same path. During the day numerous waterfalls and torrents we crossed swell as snows melt in higher elevations, so one needs to make an effort for their safe crossing.
I don't know the via ferrata difficulty ratings: on some web pages it is marked with alpine grade PD, on others AD. The feeling is like climbing UIAA II. and occasionally III. difficulty grade.

The picturesque weather of the May Day holidays lured me to Staničev vrh. There's quite a bit of snow in the approach gully, and similarly another snow patch on the way to the pools, but the ridge is clear. In the gully I used crampons and an ice axe, in the morning the snow was still firm. Nice as always, pleasant workout.

Check out Prle's book Grebeni slovenskih gora, it's all on the internet. Lp.

White Brook Valley?

Correct, Rogljič in Beli vodi. That was quick. SilvestrO, continue.

No.

New riddle:
on the saddle we left backpacks, summit is close. Where to?

I was there just a few days ago, it seemed familiar ...
New riddle tomorrow.
Regards

To Ako?

From the path to Ojstrica?

Kopiščarjeva has a concrete section when you're in the wall, very exposed, but well protected. Overall well equipped with iron.
Hanzova is twice as long, you also walk in between. You cover a lot. On many parts less iron, you have to grab the rock and climb - maybe that's one main difference, besides length and of course the steep eternal snowfield that requires ice axe and usually crampons.

Stenar?

@Trobec et al., for ascent to BII no need over scree slopes, left (but quite left) goes a little path.
Good luck.

Tomco, I know your chimney, great detail in quality white rock. Just a bit harder for 2-3m. Think grade II+, somewhere rated III- (if not mistaken, in Grebeni slovenskih gora).
Yes, with hubby up and down chimney.
lpm

Hi, these are trekking boots for dry hikes, they shouldn't be too warm.
I have a slightly stiffer model, Tech GTX, also for summer hikes. lpm

And don't tell them that you're visually impaired etc., because obviously it doesn't bother you at all, since you've been on so many peaks! Obviously you see quite enough for this activity. For driving a car though - as it seems - no. But that really doesn't concern them.