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| Tomco14. 06. 2026 18:05:40 |
Mala Martuljška Ponca, 14.6.2026
Today was one of those days for me when dreams come true. I had been "preparing" for this tour for practically a good two years. I gradually increased my goals so that one day I would be ready to step on a mountain like Mala Martuljška Ponca. The time was ripe and the mountain welcomed me kindly today.
I chose the route via Kotle, both for the ascent and the descent. Despite some unease before the tour, there were no major problems. Well, except for the ice axe getting stuck on the backpack in the dwarf pines — but by the end of the tour I had also mastered that. I have to admit though that without cairns it would have been very hard to find the start of the path that branches off from the torrent. On the transition from Spodnji to Srednji Kotel I took the left variant. During the ascent I also looked at the possibility of crossing from the western side, but from a distance it already looks quite serious.
When the view of the scree and the Martuljški peaks opens up at the exit from Zgornji Kotel, the heart really sings. It's hard to describe how much I enjoyed it — I think I walked part of the way in some kind of trance.  From there I continued left along the ridge to avoid the scree, although that wouldn't have been necessary at all because there were still nice snow patches below. I made good use of them on the way back. On the ridge there is one interesting spot where you have to descend into a notch and then climb a bit again. From above it doesn't look exactly innocent, but there were no major problems anyway. However, the ridge is very crumbly in places, so considerable caution is required.
Of course winter equipment is mandatory on the snow patch. I also helped myself with a pole. The climbing from the saddle to the summit didn't seem too demanding to me, nor on the descent. Of course, if you know what you're doing. The rock is compact, there are enough holds and steps. A rope also hangs at the beginning if anyone needs it. Personally I didn't feel the need for it.
There was quite a strong wind on the summit. I spotted about four people on Špik. The summit register is nicely arranged and in good condition; the last entry was around 20 May.
The descent via Kotle doesn't seem too bad to me (if it's dry, like it was today!) — patiently and slowly, and it works. In between I toyed with the idea of trying the descent past the Three Larches, but that will remain for another time. I would rather get to know this route first on the ascent.
Apart from two alpinists who went ahead in the morning towards the bivouac under Špik, I didn't meet a living soul on the tour and the mountain was mine alone today. Satisfaction at its peak.
It also has to be said that without the descriptions and photos here on hribi.net it wouldn't have gone so smoothly, so thank you for the useful contributions.
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| rok.si15. 06. 2026 18:11:54 |
Congratulations Tomco,
exactly one year ago I had similarly big eyes as you: first time in Martuljške mountains from this side, first time Pod Srcem, interesting path across Kotle to point Na pečeh, ascent along long snowfield and claustrophobically small summit with wonderful view, we continued to Tri macesne and Za Ak. Beautiful wilderness and unforgettable tour !
First time has special charm, when you go to Treh macesnov it will again be a day that stands out !
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| Tomco15. 06. 2026 22:40:03 |
Thanks rok.si. Kontra. Yes, I will definitely go check out Macesne...
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| ločanka16. 06. 2026 07:47:23 |
Tomco, years ago tied red ribbons (key points) already helped us with orientation on Čez kotle before the ascent, which we of course diligently removed on the descent. This comes in very handy, of course if you plan to descend the same way.
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