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Mala Martuljška Ponca

Tomco14. 06. 2026 18:05:40

Mala Martuljška Ponca, 14.6.2026

Today was one of those days for me when dreams come true. I had been "preparing" for this tour for practically a good two years. I gradually increased my goals so that one day I would be ready to step on a mountain like Mala Martuljška Ponca. The time was ripe and the mountain welcomed me kindly today.

I chose the route via Kotle, both for the ascent and the descent. Despite some unease before the tour, there were no major problems. Well, except for the ice axe getting stuck on the backpack in the dwarf pines — but by the end of the tour I had also mastered that. big grin

I have to admit though that without cairns it would have been very hard to find the start of the path that branches off from the torrent. On the transition from Spodnji to Srednji Kotel I took the left variant. During the ascent I also looked at the possibility of crossing from the western side, but from a distance it already looks quite serious.

When the view of the scree and the Martuljški peaks opens up at the exit from Zgornji Kotel, the heart really sings. It's hard to describe how much I enjoyed it — I think I walked part of the way in some kind of trance. smile

From there I continued left along the ridge to avoid the scree, although that wouldn't have been necessary at all because there were still nice snow patches below. I made good use of them on the way back. On the ridge there is one interesting spot where you have to descend into a notch and then climb a bit again. From above it doesn't look exactly innocent, but there were no major problems anyway. However, the ridge is very crumbly in places, so considerable caution is required.

Of course winter equipment is mandatory on the snow patch. I also helped myself with a pole. The climbing from the saddle to the summit didn't seem too demanding to me, nor on the descent. Of course, if you know what you're doing. The rock is compact, there are enough holds and steps. A rope also hangs at the beginning if anyone needs it. Personally I didn't feel the need for it.

There was quite a strong wind on the summit. I spotted about four people on Špik. The summit register is nicely arranged and in good condition; the last entry was around 20 May.

The descent via Kotle doesn't seem too bad to me (if it's dry, like it was today!) — patiently and slowly, and it works. In between I toyed with the idea of trying the descent past the Three Larches, but that will remain for another time. I would rather get to know this route first on the ascent.

Apart from two alpinists who went ahead in the morning towards the bivouac under Špik, I didn't meet a living soul on the tour and the mountain was mine alone today. smile

Satisfaction at its peak.

It also has to be said that without the descriptions and photos here on hribi.net it wouldn't have gone so smoothly, so thank you for the useful contributions.

First time in the cirque Pod Srcem. I walked with my mouth open :)

Another look back before I bite into the steep slope behind the rock barrier.

To the other side of the Kotel and up the scree.

Passage. I recognized it immediately, it is also nicely equipped everywhere.

Then a little above the old larch the path turns right. It is very well traceable the whole time; more than I expected.

Upper part of the Srednji Kotel. Here I was breathing heavily...

In the Zgornji Kotel freely after Prešeren...

A somewhat more difficult spot over the ridge. Maybe I should have stayed lower.

Another look back at the same spot. The descent into the notch over the small ledge is not too difficult..

OK, I'm already totally exhausted by now. Rest, sandwich and vitamin drink to follow before the snowfield...

Otherwise it's such a place for a snack that it's hard to move forward.

Ice axe, pole, kick, kick. Ice axe, pole, kick, kick... Pole ice axe kick kick PAVZAP

Now for the most beautiful part. I immediately perked up.

Oh, and a view across, so I don't forget.

Mandatory towards Špik (two are standing up there - weak camera).

Attention - on the way back in Zgornji Kotl do not keep too much to the right. It's a comfortable descent, but it doesn't lead in the right direction. I went this way, then I had to cross to the left...

Two beautiful ones. Today I couldn't get enough of looking at them. Beautiful soft, fluffy :)

A moment. I also fixed quite a few of these.

(+21)

rok.si15. 06. 2026 18:11:54

Congratulations Tomco,
exactly one year ago I had similarly big eyes as you: first time in Martuljške mountains from this side, first time Pod Srcem, interesting path across Kotle to point Na pečeh, ascent along long snowfield and claustrophobically small summit with wonderful view, we continued to Tri macesne and Za Ak. Beautiful wilderness and unforgettable tour !
First time has special charm, when you go to Treh macesnov it will again be a day that stands out !

(+3)

Tomco15. 06. 2026 22:40:03

Thanks rok.si. Kontra. nasmeh

Yes, I will definitely go check out Macesne... mežikanje

(+1)

ločanka16. 06. 2026 07:47:23

Tomco, years ago tied red ribbons (key points) already helped us with orientation on Čez kotle before the ascent, which we of course diligently removed on the descent. This comes in very handy, of course if you plan to descend the same way nasmeh

(+1)

lijaneja11. 07. 2026 12:23:43

Tomo nicely described above what the reason is, that I'm already up for the nineteenth time. nasmeh

Most often across the kotle, so it was also yesterday. I had the rucksack ready already on Monday afternoon, but a little virus postponed this already late visit to this mountain for another three days. jezen

Unfortunately it didn't work out earlier, so I had quite some trouble with the scree, gravel and rocks, instead of enjoying snow up and down.
From the empty parking I set off at six, true poetry of walking in the fresh morning. I quench my thirst at the spring, which is a stone's throw from the bivouac, which I also visit. Shade is my ally for a long time, but not the dwarf pines and various other branches that caress, scratch, stop you the whole way to the middle kotel. For the exit from the lower one I this time chose already the fourth variant, where you pull yourself out of the steep gully with the help of branches on both sides. I notice that the path higher up is always more noticeable, a bit of trouble is above the sr. kotel during descent among rocks and boulders, where of course there is no path. At the foot of Vel. Ponca I step onto the snow, as much as there still is, higher I scratch on rocks, a few dozen meters before the saddle it's pure torture among moving debris. Short climb in the wall, I didn't use the rope because it has been hanging there for some time, at the top divine, as always. As always, nowhere anyone, on Špik, Škrlatica and Prisank it was lively.

Empty parking at 930 meters of altitude.

Bivouac that is nicely maintained. (at least on the outside)

Right behind the saddle is the upper basin.

Above the middle basin. The path overhangs towards the lower basin at the saddle exactly in the middle of the image.

Zooooprno towards the saddle. It is much steeper than it looks.

When the heart plays. In the upper basin only a puddle of snow left.

Mala from the saddle. In the lower part a rope dangles.

At the top. The first view reserved for Škrlatica.

Visitors to Prisank were rarely granted sun.

But on my chock there are bigger sisters.

Direction of arrival. Drying rags nicely in the sun.

Dear Slavka! I believe singing comes easily to you, but you have noticeable vision problems. On the left you omitted six empty lines. A bit more seriousness please!

Thousands of cubic meters already carried down.

Horror. 20 min descent for this short section.

The number is already well over a hundred.

Part of Vrh nad Rudo, Rušica, Rigljica and point 1900.

The peak in the middle (2039m), where I was three hours ago!!!

(+15)

jbs11. 07. 2026 17:56:02

Tone, super, that your health returned quickly and you could conquer your beloved MMP again nasmeh

(+3)

lijaneja11. 07. 2026 21:27:29

You know, if he were home too long, he would get sick again because of that.

(+3)

lino11. 07. 2026 21:31:43

Tone, what should I say? In short you are indestructible. You are a hook and a root in one person. Good luck ahead! nasmeh

(+4)

lijaneja12. 07. 2026 09:11:07

Ha, closer to the roots, Lino! velik nasmeh

(+2)

77blaz14. 07. 2026 16:38:01

From the bivouac I went right into the gully, where there are no rock jumps and at the top I joined the approach via Kotlov.

I descended past the Three Larches, where under them due to scree, bad holds and unfavorable exit I had a bad feeling. There is no snow there.

I also partially unraveled the complication caused by the beautiful singer with a careless entry in the logbook 🙂. Yes, it's nice to look at a more than 30 years old, excellently preserved logbook. Thirty years of beautiful memories.