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| SimonaP28. 07. 2024 08:08:26 |
Happy to have tasted again the charm of Martuljek mountains, solitary wild tours, varied conditions and holds you don't hang on but quietly slip into.
On Thursday with Majda we did this wonderful tour to MMP. Up via Kotle and down past Three Larches. I'm wondering if one can descend behind Ak even before Three Larches. It seemed to me I saw a path - when looking behind Ak right upward before Three Larches. Thanks for the answer.
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| lijaneja28. 07. 2024 11:30:02 |
Simona, you've closed the little chest well, for this logbook is sacred to me.
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| ranyhyn7. 08. 2024 11:27:06 |
Yesterday on MMP - first time in this area and first time on these paths (up via Kotle and down past 3 larches). And completely alone.
As for conditions - towards the notch in the last part still snowfield, which could probably be bypassed, but allows by far the most convenient ascent (on left, facing up, from it all loose and crumbly, on right locally the gully so deep and close to wall that hard to pass).
Regarding the path - maybe fog affected my ascent via Kotle (somewhere from 1000 to 2000m altitude) so harder to find right path, but locally due to multiple trodden "paths" hard to tell which is right, especially when path hits/among rocks or scree. Missed several times by few meters (corrected with digital map and drawn route). Most critical to me the passage to middle kotel (or around pic 39 in this description https://www.hribi.net/izlet/gozd_martuljek_na_peceh_cez_kotle/1/1384/2314). Just before you go around small sinkhole under walls and can easily miss that from there need to descend a bit - again due to well-trodden "path" climbing through grass towards scree. I continued there too until so high that descent back maybe even more dangerous and then extricated via scree past rock edge, climbing few meters down very exposed terrain and ascent via small (steep exposed) gully. That I'm not the only one who "succeeds" proves the cairn waiting at gully exit.
So lots of caution to all first-timers on this path!
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| lijaneja2. 12. 2024 12:37:38 |
Bravo, young fellow! Winter ascent on my mountain is quite an achievement.
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| dolenjka&primorc2. 12. 2024 13:34:00 |
Tone, given your knowledge and experience you would also pull off this feat without major problems
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| lijaneja2. 12. 2024 18:07:45 |
Prolonged kickstepping of the whole slope in steepness, especially when soloing, requires enormous strength. Unfortunately mine have gone. I will try this hill I love so much at least a few times more in late spring period. And please, mountaineers we use informal you.
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| Tomco2. 12. 2024 22:27:07 |
Epic!
Did the crampons stay on feet also for the final ascent from the saddle? Just curious.
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| dolenjka&primorc3. 12. 2024 09:22:21 |
Tone: We two also said we must visit it next year in dry conditions. Deal
Tomco: Thanks.
Yes we had crampons up to the top, because there's also snow and ice onwards from the saddle.
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| lijaneja5. 12. 2024 11:00:56 |
Super. Of my 20-something visits I was up there ten times in the second half of June and think that's really the most suitable time to visit this mountain via Kotle.
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| andrejp5. 12. 2024 18:41:28 |
Too bad you didn't say you're going there, we would hike together again. Anyway congratulations
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| andrejp5. 12. 2024 18:41:32 |
Too bad you didn't say you're going there, we would hike together again. Anyway congratulations
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| dolenjka&primorc6. 12. 2024 11:20:55 |
Tone: agree. Otherwise winter variant is also super, if it doesn't sink too much
Andrej: thanks.
Next time we go I'll tell you and we go into action
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| j.8. 12. 2024 16:21:43 |
Excellent! And it looks like just the right moment weather-wise.
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| andrejp9. 12. 2024 08:31:53 |
Me2 with Janez were there yesterday... to the saddle, then wind, fog and snow drove us down... next time to the top.
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| Tomco9. 12. 2024 16:39:25 |
Super detailed report. I read it with pleasure.
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| nenap9. 12. 2024 17:34:14 |
Congratulations team 
AndrejP next time better weather and you'll make it
Greetings Nevenka
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| lijaneja26. 06. 2025 09:33:12 |
This year I hurried date-wise, weather prospects for yesterday were good (morning clarity, afternoon mists) and they came true. On holiday I hoped someone else would take my path, but I met no living soul on the whole tour.
I start early, so despite slow pace I was at my princess's by ten-thirty. Skipped bivouac this time, hadn't soaked my rags much yet. Noticed someone had nicely cut annoying branches to the lower basin. No stop there, continue in nice shade on now familiar path circling it on the left. Skipped upper basin too, scree above it dry very nasty, so turned left along ridge over 2102m point to snowfield. Put on crampons, changed into long dry gear and on snow all the way to saddle (2435m). There dropped winter gear, on dry rock right of chain reached summit in scramble I love very much though unfortunately short. Stayed over an hour in pleasant sun and total calm. Waited for first visitors of neighboring Špik, they were the only people seen on the tour.
Down veeeery slowly, left knee totally f.... At spring under bivouac filled water, which by car completely transferred to overheated retired flask...
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