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Mala Martuljška Ponca

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lijaneja26. 06. 2023 14:32:04
Thanks for taking care of the booklet, Kostja. You say the entry space is still enough for this year.
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djimuzl26. 06. 2023 18:56:31
Nice tour and fantastic pic from Three Larches nasmeh
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lijaneja30. 06. 2023 18:42:38
This year I hurried a bit with the mountain visit, no regrets as no step on scree was needed. With my mate we started a bit before 7, dry, nicely cool and at the beginning not too steepnasmeh. Under the bivouac nice spring, we refresh and snack. Due to slow pace I skip changing at bivouac, clothes almost dry, so we plan a stop at bivouac on return. To lower Kotla someone pinched twigs. I speed up that part and leave clothes on one of the boulders. To upper Kotla together, someone tried cairns but in nice weather unnecessary. We put crampons on in snowy upper Kotla and take them off only at the saddle. Short climb to top ends too quickly. At the top no rush, super weather, likewise sliding on snow to upper Kotla. We stay half an hour more at Na Pečeh and along the approach to bivouac, pause again. Except guy on Špik, no living souls anywhere. Perfect day ends at Dani.
Under the heart. Here is the main Špik.1
Who will endure longer?2
On the upper edge of the middle Kotel.3
zoomed in4
In good weather, orientation is easy.5
Martuljški Ponci6
View back7
Today's goal8
400 meters of elevation enjoyment with crampons...9
...because from the upper Kotel to the saddle between the Poncas there is continuous snow.10
On the saddle. Middle below - trace of severe erosion, behind Dnina.11
Approach route. Middle above 'Za Akom'.12
On the summit after seven minutes of climbing pleasure.13
100 meters higher VMP...14
...and queen Škrlatica.15
Kepa and Kukova špica.16
In the good hour I spent on the summit, I noticed only one person on Špik....17
...for a while he stood like a statue.18
Kepa with its neighbors.19
Kukova špica and Široka peč.20
Srednji Vrh and Rute (settlements).21
Truly scary western part of the summit of the eponymous neighbor.22
Prisank23
Razor24
Both together.25
From Kotova špica to Visoka Ponca.26
30m lower, but a hundred times more famous27
The lower part of Velika Dnina28
Krniška inn29
Prisankova Zvonika30
10% of it will be welcomed next winter31
At the three (hundred) larches32
Vršič with Poštarski dom33
View of the saddle between the Ponces34
For now still enough snow to reach Mala Ponca also from Dnina. Only the jump right below the summit is questionable35
On the slabs and point 210236
Kukova špica, Široka peč and Dovški Križ37
So it's not just rock38
Oltars and Ponca from Na pečeh.39
The main summit is the left one40
Jugova grapa41
Rušica and Rigljica42
In white mists between 'Na pečeh' and VMP from in front of the bivouac under Špik - Oltar43
The aforementioned bivouac above44
Backdrop with Rut.45
Adder's tongue46
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bos30. 06. 2023 20:40:16
You both nicely used the day, last pic for the better half.velik nasmeh
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lijaneja30. 06. 2023 21:00:37
Both true, Boštjan. Pic not lastvelik nasmeh, went for smoke break.nasmeh
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djimuzl30. 06. 2023 21:41:36
Nice details, nice memories nasmeh
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redbull30. 06. 2023 21:57:20
Great, this tour is really beautiful!
There at photo 35 it's best to ascend not via the gully but from Dnina looking up left of that gully SW ridge. For you Tone a piece of cake (II) and cairns too. Anyway the best ascent to MMP is via your pathless route
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lijaneja1. 07. 2023 13:34:48
Over Kotle is really an experience, Dejan and I go every year preferably. But I'll properly try your variant sometime in combination with Velika Ponca.
Now while there's still snow, draws me to Jugova grapa, Kačji jezik, Rokavski ozebnik...nasmeh
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ljubitelj gora2. 07. 2023 22:41:26
After rain to Little Martuljek Ponca. Winter gear still mandatory.
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BananaBronson3. 07. 2023 19:57:37
We two were on MMP Sunday before rain, descent behind Akom. Some pics and short report here.
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ljubitelj gora4. 07. 2023 13:01:54
I noticed how you were walking back wet. Took umbrella to MMP just in case but no more rain.
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lijaneja4. 07. 2023 14:16:15
The summit is impressively panoramic, but so exposed that we contentedly settled for the highest point and didn't bother with another meter or two to the logbox.zmedenzmedenzmeden
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ljubitelj gora4. 07. 2023 23:20:55
If I saw right, you were logged in.
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lijaneja5. 07. 2023 07:16:59
Context from Bronson's text, Matej!
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Fapo10. 09. 2023 21:34:34
Almost Mala Martuljška Ponca from Dnina

Started around 7 below Ruski križ, via forest path to Koča v Krnici. Turned left towards Špik and continued along dry streambed. After less than an hour at fork went right to gully, left Špik. Almost to end of gully then right to steep forest path. A bit of scrambling and soon view to Velika Dnina. Stayed somewhat lower than eroded path so less scree. Soon below bivouac, went left, right VMP. Start of gully scree very loose but then larger rocks, less sinking. End of main scree to small ridge from which descended back to main gully. There another half hour tried to bypass traverse on pic 34 but decided not worth it and turned around. Turned at approx. 2270m. Uphill whole path in shade, sometimes even a bit cold; downhill strong sun. Back from Krnica to car by road.
Along the road to the main parking lot1
forest path2
VMP3
Kumleh4
interesting cairn5
Prisank6
We cross the streambed several times7
View back8
A little above the branch-off9
Descent back into the gully10
11
Up towards the forest path12
13
Špik's notch14
15
Snack with a view16
Up the middle17
18
V. Dnina19
Visitors to V. Oltar20
Up through the grass21
Lipnica22
One single scree23
Bivak I24
helicopter25
2 steps up, one down26
View back27
28
steeper than it looks29
Easier below to the right30
MMP31
With a stick we made footprints32
33
up the gully34
Here we turned back35
Still some patch here and there36
37
38
Ruined the perfect blue39
snapshot40
41
a little more42
(+7)like
redbull11. 09. 2023 05:24:42
Access to the saddle is much easier from the opposite direction (Martuljek); up here in summer it's not walkable at all, in winter no problem. Better to visit VMP another time, easier grip on the rock than in this scree.
good luck
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lijaneja12. 07. 2024 09:45:11
A year has passed, my darling already impatiently awaits me. I started a bit earlier in the morning, since the fogs were supposed to lift quickly. Luckily they lingered only on the highest mountains, so the nuisance wasn't too bothersome. On this tour I rarely meet people, it was the same this time, I didn't notice anyone even on Špik. The snow was ideal even on the descent; as usual, some of it will remain until next time. The summit logbook is already very 'tired', there is no respect for it. Since I had plenty of time, I took many photos, unfortunately some are of lower quality.
To Ponca from the screes below the bivouac under Špik.1
Rušica and Rigljica, right corner 1900.2
In Srednji Kotel. Approach direction...3
... exit direction.4
Just before Zg. Kotel. Tavelka sestra already in fog.5
view towards the valley6
Rušica from Zg. Kotel7
Above snow-covered Zg. Kotel. On pečeh 2039.8
With those quick crampons...9
...expressly to the saddle.10
First six meters good II, then easy to the top.11
In another year, the connection to Dnina will be very difficult.12
In its kingdom.13
View from the summit14
Lipnica and Špik15
Razor and Prisank16
All the time I noticed no one on Špik.17
Foggy Škrlatica18
Velika Dnina19
Prisank and Zvonika20
Velka Ponca during descent.21
bivouac below Špik22
Poštarski dom23
Where is the ground?24
Sedelce25
Just the right snow...26
...which will be at V. Ponca...27
...persisting until the next one.28
Still a long way to Rut.29
The size of V. Ponca30
Široka peč. Kukova špica in the fog.31
At the three (hundred) larches.32
Altar33
The tiniest flowers.34
Oltar and both Poncas from Na pečeh.35
Jugova grapa36
Rute and Srednji vrh.37
Oltar with a piece of Kačji jezik.38
Reliable natural bivouac.39
In the Spodnji Kotel.40
Still visiting the bivouac...41
...with a view of Ponca.42
Not proper43
Next year again...44
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kolpa17. 07. 2024 14:52:12
Hello! In the coming days I intend to conquer MMP, but I have a question for experts of Martuljek mountains. Interested which approach is more suitable, via Velika Dnina - MMP summit or approach bivouac Za Akom - Pri treh macesnih - MMP summit? Thanks for answer.
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lijaneja17. 07. 2024 15:37:21
I don't recommend either of these two to you. From Dnina there has been heavy scree fall for the last ten years and it would only be advisable with a thick snow cover; below the Three Larches you are exposed to stone barrage, and higher up you must cross two deep gullies.
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velocy17. 07. 2024 15:45:41
Go via Kotle - from Martuljek, past bivouac below Špik. Best description by Alyas on page 4 of this thread. Recommend descent same path.
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