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Mala Martuljška Ponca

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JusAvgustin10. 08. 2013 08:14:00
lynx true, but this one is even more exposed and hairy... nasmeh
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Daaam10. 08. 2013 09:22:13
@Jus.. about crazy ends... hmmmm.. what about Trenta? jezik .. kinda different way but anyway mežikanje
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JusAvgustin10. 08. 2013 19:26:31
Can't draw parallels, for me big "M" is above all. For soul and body in M it'll be crazy for you... nasmeh
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lijaneja12. 08. 2013 17:13:58
Jus, well said. No parallel between Trenta and Martuljek. While in Trenta you need gloves and ice axe even in summer for steep grass, in Martuljek you're in another world. But I like going to both ends equally.
Yesterday I was a guest at MMP. Accompanied by longtime friend Feliks and Marijan from Pula. Pity this mountain is so neglected. In the thin summit book I found myself from distant 2002.
This time I took some pics too.
Peak above Ruda and Rušica?1
Špik2
Lower cauldron3
Middle cauldron4
If I stretched my legs, I wouldn't fit in the picture5
Martuljški Ponci6
About 50m more to go on snow. Taken from the saddle between the Poncas.7
Erosion sends huge amounts of material towards the bottom.8
Razor from the top of MMP. Currently the only possible approach for pathless travellers.9
Prisojnik from Zvonik10
Jalovec and Mangart, Mojstrovke in between. Bottom left Poštarski dom at Vršič.11
Škrlatica12
My today's companions Feliks and Marijan13
Frightening big neighbour, VMP.14
On Špik 30m lower there are quite a few visitors15
Some snow will surely overwinter16
During descent into the upper cauldron17
On the slabs 203918
Septuagenarian - with the legs of a trained thirty-year-old.19
Kukova špica.20
Closed today...21
Velika and Mala Martuljška Ponca from in front of the bivouac below Špik.22
Where is the morning blue?23
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jedriličar12. 08. 2013 18:33:51
Nice pics. Thanks again for the tour, recommend myself for VMP, Oltar, Rokav ...
Today I did only KŠ, for traverse to DŠ I had neither will nor strength, that talus to below KŠ killed me ...
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dprapr12. 08. 2013 21:34:52
Yeah, in Martuljek it's nice, in the Trentarski world it's paradise!
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lijaneja12. 08. 2013 21:43:33
It was my pleasure, jedriličar.
For the weekend I'm thinking a bit about Votli vrh in Loška stena.
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JusAvgustin13. 08. 2013 05:55:02
On the first picture you can see part of Rusa peč (Peak above Ruda), peak Rušica, ridge of Rigljica and Siljica. I'm also going to those parts this week, just a bit "stronger" variant... velik nasmeh

LP
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jedriličar13. 08. 2013 08:14:20
Well, I'll add some pics from Sunday too...
up there we go, that 'small' one in the middle is our goal, right Špik, left VMP and Oltar1
little spring by the path ...2
where over this wall, only the guide knows, there is no path ...3
one of the rare 'marks' where you need to take the path, and in the picture our guide and grandpa with thirty-year-old legs4
no path, so you go at your own choice ...5
view of the traversed 'path' ...6
first the view opens to the ponca, left VMP, right MMP7
just this scree needs to be done, then it will be easier ...8
the snowfield can mostly be avoided, up to before the top, some last 50 meters ..9
view downwards, to the cirque 'three larches', but we came from the left side ...10
view from the saddle downwards, for those 50 meters crampons and of course ice axe are recommended11
view from the saddle to the other side, into the cirque of velika dnina, the large rockfall on the left side is visible ...12
this part of the wall needs to be climbed, but nothing difficult, even 'grandpa' went without problems ...13
towards the top, only this ZZTop old man with red helmet we met, and no one in these areas all day14
he down ...15
me up now ...16
at the top, behind škrlatica ...17
hm, let's see how many times I've been up here ... 18
škrlatica, and right razor ...19
the day was beautiful, and the views wonderful ... prisank, vršić, jalovec and mangart in the distance20
behind špik ...21
rockfall from the saddle into the cirque v. dnine ...22
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lijaneja14. 08. 2013 21:29:43
Thanks for the pics, jedriličar. Too bad you didn't manage the Kukova špica - Dovški križ traverse on Monday.
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JusAvgustin16. 08. 2013 18:01:37
"How you'll tackle the ridge and all the)(7 towers) gendarmes, I leave to you, but first write your will!" "Even riskier than Kurji vrh-Frdamane police and Veliki Oltar-Škrlatica..." Such and various threats, such and various comments, who wouldn't get "hooked?" nasmeh Yesterday my climbing partner and I climbed to MMP from Špikova škrbina via Ognjene zublje to the top. Comment after the trip? This ridge is total odf**! Nothing like it in Martuljek. In every respect. Very, very serious ridge pleasure, rotten spots, deep notches and constant difficulty. On the ridge we found only one station and one poorly hammered peg, the rest we equipped ourselves. If Široka peč is the Queen of Martuljek then this approach to MMP is the peak of ridge climbing. Difficult, exposed, rotten extremely long and crazy... We needed a long 8 hours for the ridge (350 m). We descended in the dark to the bivouac in Krnica. Once again, this is total madness! jezik
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201556670026072.1073741831.1457064221&type=1&l=992a6f03ab
Towards Škrbina1
Žaga2
Into the Škrbina3
This way we have the right one...4
aha, no bypass5
Across the slabs6
Then into the traverse7
and to the top8
Goodbye until next time9
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jedriličar16. 08. 2013 18:40:39
Nice. Hats off...
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viharnik16. 08. 2013 18:48:23
Jus conjured wild, rarely seen parts of the Julijci for us. Just the ascent to Špikova škrbina would be quite the adventure for most. Bravo Jus! nasmeh
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Keko16. 08. 2013 20:53:16
Yeah really is, I mention some rottenness on Zeleniške špice but this one is rottenness squared.
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ljubitelj gora17. 08. 2013 09:42:00
I personally see no pleasure in all sorts of shitty traverses, it's torture, once I went with my brother to climb a route at the end I just told him, you find someone else for this torture jezik. Now he doesn't climb anymore either, though he's a senior trainee and goes to the mountains like all other hikers velik nasmeh
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dolenjka&primorc17. 08. 2013 10:15:18
Every calf has its merry one velik nasmeh
Congrats Juš & climbing partner cool
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SilvestrO17. 08. 2013 13:55:01
I join in, this is ..., I'm already hatless... velik nasmeh
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JusAvgustin17. 08. 2013 17:16:13
Fiery towers from Jasenjamežikanje
Tower by tower, notch by notch. Invaluable1
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dprapr17. 08. 2013 17:30:58
Yes, I too a while ago "belittled" ridges and only looked at walls.
You probably have to "mature" to tackle such things.
Nothing beats ridge traverses!
Juš - today I was with wife on an easier ridge in KSA, and think I saw your climbing partner listed (A. R. from Radovljica)!
Regards
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JusAvgustin30. 08. 2013 13:36:13
Somehow managed to roughly assemble and draw the ascent route over the fiery towers. For all enthusiasts photo!mežikanje
Route along the western ridge - overall grade IV, the hardest part much higher.1
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