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Mala Martuljška Ponca

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Maemi20. 05. 2015 21:03:06
Great trip report and congrats on fantastic ascent nasmeh Martuljek mountains are really class of their own.
But really, one signature is missing... mežikanje
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ločanka21. 05. 2015 17:15:08
Beautiful, rich description full of info, equipped with exciting shots, everything shown, nothing missing! Really a true show of the experience!
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lijaneja18. 11. 2015 21:56:58
Since summer still lasts nasmeh, yesterday Rajko and I decided to visit this neglected mountain. Almost every year I visit it from the north across Kotle, this time we approached from Dnine. I am aware that it is a winter approach when the jump before the saddle is nicely filled, but I know the bypass even in summer when there is no snow. Here a thick rope is even fixed, so that this part of the ascent was the easiest. I knew of the collapse but not such extent and without Rajko I would have turned back quickly.
From this side in the future only on thick snow blanket.
Since it was windy on the summit (space only for one and a half persons) we snacked lower in shelter and didn't even sign.
The whole day we saw three living beings: chamois, ptarmigan and small bird persistently rummaging in the wall under bivouac.
Will anything else fly down?1
VMP with MMP.2
Kukova špica3
View to the north side.4
Lipnica and Špik, lower than Dobrač, ha, ha.5
Second half of November, yet no snow even on our highest peaks.6
Detail during descent through absolute devastation - God forbid an earthquake for at least another half hour.7
One single living wound8
In summer never up here again.9
Not even on the marked path on the flat you are not always safe.10
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77blaz13. 07. 2016 07:13:51
Slept in Bivak I. Access to bivak despite cable climbing. Pleh with soul, thanks AO Jesenice.

Yesterday 12.7. went to saddle between Small and Big Ponca. Snow starts at height of Bivak I, all winter gear needed. At saddle and approx. 15 m below saddle no snow anymore, so the pre-tensioned rope was very helpful, with which I pulled myself over crumbly rocks to saddle. Falling rocks.

From saddle descended across Kotle, midway right down gully to Ak, then past waterfalls to Gozd Martuljek.
Straight up off-trail here1
Evening alpenglow2
3
Arrow on Duris4
Marmot in the gullet5
along the cable and up the vertical crack to the bivouac6
7
from bivouac into gully between MMP and VMP8
towards the saddle9
ridge over smooth rocks10
view back from Kotlov11
along this gully Za Ak12
view back from Za Ak13
Three Larches14
15
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JusAvgustin13. 07. 2016 11:05:21
That rope was already quite worn when crossing Z ridge MMP, consider that when hanging on unchecked stuff, if you don't want gully express there'll be trouble.
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77blaz13. 07. 2016 19:00:15
Yeah, that rope is really just a support, you always have to be ready for it to break.
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Guest11. 08. 2016 13:32:36
Does anyone have info on the route to Little Ponca via Kotlje or past the Three Larches. Amount of snow in the notch between the Poncas?
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dprapr11. 08. 2016 14:13:41
If that helps you any...
1
2
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lijaneja11. 08. 2016 16:12:52
For MMP via Kotlje you're a bit late and there'll be little snow enjoyment.
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Guest12. 08. 2016 12:43:59
Thanks for the info!
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Guest14. 08. 2016 16:03:27
Jasenje-Pri Ingot, Za Akom, Three Larches, Little Ponca, descent via Kotle. At Three Larches best to ascend far left then cross the gully (supported-crumbly). Below Big Ponca cross deep gully, no big problems (very compacted sand in places). In gully between Poncas still some compacted snow (winter gear not needed) - caution needed - loaded. Path via Kotle very hard to follow, very few cairns, some parts overgrown - not recommended if you don't know it. Water still below Three Larches, then only at Pod Srcem.
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dprapr27. 08. 2016 21:49:27
Today we enjoyed the silence of Martuljek. Except for chamois we met no one.
We ascended past bivouac below Špik and via Kotle and descended past green Three Larches to valley. Green only at larches, all else downward stone on stone.
From bivouac behind Akom downward on path section with cables still wet and slippery late afternoon.
Beautiful Martuljek day!
We're going up there (Na Pečeh).1
Špik.2
Imposing from everywhere.3
Lower Kotel.4
Špik, Frdamane police, Vrh nad Rudo, Rušica, Rigljica.5
Across the Middle Kotel.6
Enjoying, what else.7
Close-up view towards Gamsovo okno between Vrh nad Rudom and Rušica.8
View from the summit of Na Pečeh.9
She hid somewhere from me.10
We will return there, below Mali Oltar and Široka pečja.11
Ponca is not far now.12
Play of nature.13
Only this one remained under the notch.14
Up from the notch.15
Fallen towards Velika Dnina.16
View from the summit (Razor, Prisojnik, Jalovec and many others).17
Škrlatica.18
Velika Martuljška Ponca.19
Mali Oltar as if it does not belong to Martuljek.20
Beautiful upper part.21
No snow, but slippery similarly.22
Two unpleasant gullies need to be crossed.23
Martuljška oasis at the Three Larches.24
New(?) landslide, quickly past.25
I don't know what's prettier, the ptarmigan or the mountains behind. Actually as a whole.26
This would be the quickest way down to the valley.27
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Branee27. 08. 2016 22:55:28
I was also up there today around 3pm from VD. Didn't meet anyone from that direction, except on return a girl from Špik direction to cirque
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dprapr28. 08. 2016 10:31:41
We missed each other by under 2 hours.nasmeh
Where you came up, looks from above like a real quarry. But probably not that bad.
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JusAvgustin28. 08. 2016 10:43:38
Oh yeah. Quarry is way too mild a word. mežikanje
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lijaneja28. 08. 2016 14:44:46
You had a nice time, Drago, good for you.
For the approach from Dnine, Juš is right. Slovenian has no proper word for this landslide. Probably even worse than last autumn (my pictures and description a bit higher)eek
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Branee28. 08. 2016 16:52:30
A bit of "sliding" on the scree or whatever, I like it velik nasmeh
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matic429. 08. 2016 07:09:52
I also went yesterday from the Krnica direction. The tour is doable, but I wouldn't recommend it. I entered the gully right at the bottom on hard scree. It can sweep you away quickly there if you don't hold onto rocks. In the middle part of the gully I made detours on scree-covered ledges to the left of the gully. All the way to the jump I stayed left of the gully. Before the notch over the jump there's a rope hanging. Up to the notch everything is littered with scree, wherever you step everything moves.
1
2
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lijaneja11. 07. 2017 17:07:55
Such a beautiful and high mountain, yet so few visitors (even on the forum). This confirms that on all ascents I met only one person, namely Iva (don't know him) on 21.5.2005, who lost his map. It's still waiting for him with me if he follows this forum.
In the morning I start into a promising day, no cars at the parking lot and I stride uphill. In the pleasant forest two short showers tried to form, but rarely a drop reached the ground. At the spring 10 min below the bivouac I quench my thirst one last time. I'm drawn to the hut to check if they have a new barmaid,nasmeh behind the bivouac there's a small hut with even a roll of three-ply..., I change and descend those 40 height meters to the dry streambed, where a nice guy shows the progress to the first Kotel. NN-ec, thanks for hanging the t-shirt over the fence in front of the bivouac. Through the Kotel I progress nicely until the sun appears, which lately bothers me more and more (heat). I reached shade only right below VMP by the eternal snow. A bit before the saddle the familiar noise increasingly catches my attention, I know that avalanches often occur on the other side, but it can't last that long. Right below the summit last moment I grab the cap by the peak so it doesn't blow into the depths... Here I leave the poles and after sixty height meters of nice scrambling reach the summit. Descent through Kotel was very hot, so without long pants and sleeves, headscarf, glasses and cream and of course water, don't go on this route. First people I met only on the way to Ingolt, where they came to cool off.
As usual, the end was at Dani's in Dovje.
View towards the Poncas from in front of the bivouac under Špik 1424.1
On the lower edge of the middle Kotla.2
Today's goal.3
Her higher sister is a bit shy.4
Fresh break a little below the saddle,5
which is still under snow.6
Approach route. Taken from the saddle.7
Škrlatica from MMP.8
Razor9
Bavški Grintavec and Prisank10
Špik 30 m lower.11
Towards the three firs (if you find them).12
Mighty gendarmes13
VMP14
Jalovec15
bivouac below Špik16
on Špik17
The broken summit part of VMP,18
which was also graced with a visit19
The landslide from the saddle towards Dnina20
Left: Na pečeh, behind: Gozd Martuljek. (during descent from the saddle)21
Kukova špica and Široka peč22
Rušica and Rigljica, photographed from the ridgelet Na pečeh.23
Martuljški Ponci24
Kukova špica25
Jugova grapa26
Frdamane police27
I hope again sometime, Mala Martuljška Ponca!28
(+13)like
mito300016. 07. 2017 22:19:52
Nicely documented Tone, as always an encyclopedia of peaks.
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