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| lijaneja22. 10. 2017 09:04:11 |
Hundred people, hundred routes. Only on two pictures is also my route. Poles, ice axe and crampons (when I drag them along) I always leave at the saddle.
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| dprapr22. 10. 2017 09:54:41 |
On the last picture definitely better variant along the ridge to the left. At least uphill, if returning the same way.
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| lijaneja22. 10. 2017 10:40:14 |
Except if there's snow and frozen to the bottom of the basin.
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| misace19. 05. 2018 15:57:50 |
Actually already on Friday (yesterday 18.5.2018) it was like this. Free day and weather window in forecasts. Through Kotel, where snow in lower part, after 3rd into correct 2nd gully from left to Srednje, where at the rock I put on crampons. To the saddle from where some fresh slabs on older base from rocks and steep slopes. Weekend tracks traceable even under blown-away snow. From well-consolidated saddle bp into dry wall. On descent some rattling from Velika, but most unnerving is the falling from left into the "collapsed" gully from Srednji kotli towards Za akom. Ropes down hold, but some logs need replacing. Waved towards Špik but they didn't notice me  Oh and I signed wrong 
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| janezs732. 07. 2018 09:26:07 |
Conditions (read snowfields) still allow relatively comfortable access to the Small Martuljek Saddle.
I climbed to it yesterday via the Kotels. A large snowfield is already in the lower Kotel, then smaller snowfields remain all the way to the ridge above upper Kotel. Crampons are not needed in the Kotels even in the morning. All traverses and gullies are nicely passable. Due to quite dense fog I stuck to the eastern side of the ridge from the Kotels towards the Poncas (that is, above Ak).
The central gully below the notch between the two Poncas is nicely filled, but the snow is not quite hard, slush builds up on crampons practically all the time. Especially downhill it's quite messy.
In the middle of the gully the fog finally cleared and Martuljek shone in all its glory.
On the way back I detoured to the 3 Larches. Snowfields are still in all gullies that cut the screes past Poncas and Oltarji. The one in the "quarry" below the Larches is already so holed that I had my stomach almost in my throat when I had to cross it.
Fantastic day!
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| dprapr2. 07. 2018 20:46:47 |
To spend a day in those parts...
The last sentence says it all.
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| janezs734. 07. 2018 07:04:20 |
Exactly so, Drago! I could hardly wait for the first chance to head back to Martuljek.
Sitting on some tower and drinking in that seething beauty is a pleasure that words can't describe.
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| mito300028. 09. 2018 22:02:24 |
Tone, so many nice photos have accumulated, I have nothing to add. That little path from lower to middle kotel nicely described and drawn on this forum in Na Peči route desc.
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| bbugari129. 09. 2018 09:26:58 |
Really interesting perspectives of some giants (Kanin, Prisojnik, Razor...).
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| lijaneja4. 03. 2019 17:30:10 |
Super tour. More space on summit than in summer.
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| jbv5. 03. 2019 12:06:21 |
It's really great! Ahaaa, yeah well then I'll have to try it in summer too
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| dprapr5. 03. 2019 12:15:44 |
Nice tour you did.
To the other side, towards the Kotli, your camera didn't want to take pics?
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| lijaneja18. 08. 2019 19:55:24 |
A year has gone by and yesterday the opportunity arose to visit it again. Nežka also inspired me, as she hasn't been on this peak yet. On her initiative we started a bit earlier, i.e. shortly after six. Walking in the morning chill was a real pleasure, I refilled water at the spring, briefly visited the bivouac under Špik and already heading to the lower cirque. First time practicing the path between the lower and mid cirque, which we discovered last year and traversed with Matjaž on descent. I think it's time-wise a minute longer, but more comfortable. We continued also across the mid cirque and not along the ridgelet. Last 80 m before the saddle I put on the helmet, because at this time there is no more winter approach comfort (snow). Once again I warn about the rock right under the saddle, it has only minimal hold, so make sure no one is above you who could trigger it with a slight touch. On top we enjoyed 45 minutes in sunny windlessness and since my fingers weren't cold, I shot pics, shot pics, shot pics
So as not to be home too early  , we descended past the 'three larches', past Za Ak and past Ingota to the car. Crossing the first gully (under VMP) there were no problems, as it was fairly soft, the second one was firmly packed and quite demanding. Descent under the larches was easier than I imagined, mostly we walked along the rocky streambed without scree. At Ingota and lower it's a real promenade, but no chamois, no girls... 
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| mito300018. 08. 2019 21:23:24 |
Is it really already a year gone by? Nice tour and nice pics.
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