 | Does Petzl's Wire Lock locking carabiner hold up to other climbing carabiners
20. 07. 2022 15:59:55
We broke 12 locking carabiners all lined up from weakest to strongest. They did not break in that order though! These carabiners have different gates and we show them to you before breaking them. It's a hybrid between a buying guide and teaching what HMS lockers are and just pure edutainment. I ... |
 | HMPE - Are tapering splices that important in Dyneema
27. 07. 2022 16:13:28
I was just trying to test tapers and how much of a difference it made and then Teufelberger's splice came undone. BLOG HAS MORE DETAILS & DATA https://www.hownot2.com/post/are-tapering-splices-that-important-in-dyneema-hmpe... |
 | Does PURCELL PRUSSIK save you If you fall on an ASCENDER
3. 08. 2022 15:04:04
Does a purcell prusik shock absorb enough as a personal lanyard to prevent an ascender from desheathing a climbing rope if you were to take a short fall while passing an obstacle? A little is the answer but 1/2' ropes are so burly that they won't desheath even with a static sling in our tests. Howe... |
 | Dyneema VS Generic HMPE Soft Shackles
10. 08. 2022 15:29:58
We tested 3 types of soft shackles made with 3 different qualities of Dyneema - 2 samples each. The 3 qualities were generic HMPE, low quality name brand and the best stuff on the market.Samson Amsteel Blue Sk75 - https://tinyurl.com/mr3zvsa6... |
 | are the bunny ears actually redundant | Super 8 Knot
17. 08. 2022 15:47:37
Is the super 8 or double figure of 8 redundant if one eye fails? ABOK 1085 names it Double Figure of 8. We show how to tie the bunny ears then pull it to 4kn and 9kn to see if we can untie it. Some knots are impossible to untie, and some are very easy to untie after being pulled. This was pretty ... |
 | How strong is 'synthetic rope' (HMPE) on Ebay & Amazon | Dyneema vs Chineema
24. 08. 2022 15:00:18
Dyneema or HPME comes in all sorts of qualities labeled as SK this or SK that. What do they mean and how much do they affect strength. We also test generic HMPE that I joke is chineema and is sold on ebay and amazon because a lot of us wonder how good that stuff is. Strength isn't the only factor... |
 | Cave Anchors Made Out Of Dyneema
31. 08. 2022 14:59:53
Bobby and John broke some cave anchors. They tested the Climbing Technology's Soft Anchors and also the homemade ones by Andrzej Rudkowski. CT dyneema broke at 14kn and rethreaded with Max sk99 4mm broke at 16kn and in tension broke at 11kn.... |
 | A 9 month project is now released - 6 Year Anniversary
5. 09. 2022 14:59:54
I redesigned our entire website from scratch and coded a 3 layer filter to organize our 400 episodes which are (soon) all in written form. We have 3 courses live and our 4th course is coming out in 2 days. I've been doing this for 6 years now and it's amazing to see how far it has come but we got ... |
 | Planning For El Capitan | Big Wall Bible
7. 09. 2022 14:59:49
Big Wall Bible #1 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comThe number one thing that can cause you to bail and fail on a big wall is poor planning, getting late starts from difficult Yosemite logistics, bad weather, or bad partners. This is definitely NOT why you are stoked for this course but it is 100% the... |
 | 12 Essentials You Need To Climb Big Walls
14. 09. 2022 15:52:01
Big Wall Bible #2 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comI know you are excited to get on the rock but you have a LOT of prep ahead of you in order to live in a vertical world for several days. This is your 2nd NON-SEXY big wall topic but if you get this wrong, you're coming down early. ... |
 | Packing Haul Bags for Big Walling
21. 09. 2022 15:31:33
Big Wall Bible #3 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comYou have 1 bag with 1 compartment, how are you going to pack it? Haul bags are not like other backpacks so it's worth spending a chapter and showing you how to connect it, get into it, put the straps away and pack everything into it.... |
 | How to Sleep on Cliff and Poop in Bag
28. 09. 2022 14:23:46
Big Wall Bible #4 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comExisting in a vertical world is an art and honestly one of the coolest forms of camping. But you don't know what you don't know if you haven't done it, so hopefully, this will tell you what you don't know. The idea is to practice everything at home ... |
 | Cams, Nuts & Hooks | My Big Wall Rack
5. 10. 2022 14:59:48
Big Wall Bible #5 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comWhat gear do you need to lead while aid climbing? A whole lot! We'll show you our racks if you show us yours. WHAT do we carry and WHY and HOW.... |
 | How much force can $390 climbing bolt remover pull
8. 10. 2022 18:37:14
I modified the bolt buster tension tester to test how much force the YABR (Yet Another Bolt Remover) can generate and it's a lot. It broke the bolt but I was twisting hard at 23.82kN or 5,354lbf! This is why you have to score, or aggressively spin, a bolt before pulling so the wedge doesn't get en... |
 | Hooking and Nutting | Aid Climbing
12. 10. 2022 14:59:51
Big Wall Bible #6 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comHow do you place all that gear you are carrying? Do you need to have a trad climbing background where you already know how to place cams and nuts? It helps, but isn't that necessary since you rarely fall on the gear and therefore don't actually know ... |
 | Testing Climbing Cams AT BLACK DIAMOND'S LAB - C4 vs Ultralights
15. 10. 2022 14:59:54
We drop-tested and slow-pulled old cams donated by Timothy Neidmeyer, Bobby Hutton and Eric Nies. The ultralights were purchased in 2017 and were in a house fire where they got smoke and water damage which is why they are all rusty. The ultralights are 25% lighter than the latest C4s and one weigh... |
 | 15 Knots You Need to Big Wall
19. 10. 2022 15:07:39
Big Wall Bible #7 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comIt's 'knot' that hard to learn how to twist your rope in all the ways you need to go up a wall. This ties together a foundation for the next chapters so we can just show you what to do without getting stuck on knot basics. Knots are actually quite e... |
 | Watch this before climbing in Tonsai
22. 10. 2022 15:33:58
Tonsai, Krabi Thailand is a climbing mecca and has beautiful and unique climbing. The overhanging limestone cliffs remind me of an outdoor cave without mud. Here is some beta if you are planning to go there I hope makes your trip easier for planning.... |
 | How to Lead | Aid Climbing Big Walls
26. 10. 2022 15:42:40
Big Wall #8 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.comLeading is a methodical and repetitive motion if done correctly. Get as high as you can on your aiders, place your gear, bounce test it, commit to it, get off your last piece and clip your rope to it or back clean it, and repeat. Fear or exhaustion can ma... |
 | - How did this happen?
29. 10. 2022 16:12:24
How strong are ice screws? Plenty strong enough, but the question is more about how strong is the ice. We did 9 tests in this video and found the aluminum hangers on the Petzl Laser Speed breaks at 14kN, long 21cm screws are stronger than a carabiner, and of course that screws in tension hold bett... |
 | How do women pee and manage periods while climbing
5. 11. 2022 16:08:02
A woman emailed me and asked how women pee and manage periods while climbing. Since I'm not an expert at that, I found a volunteer. We tried to make this video fun but also helpful. Enjoy learning more about pee funnels than you probably wanted to. ... |
 | November 2022 Updates
7. 11. 2022 21:05:16
Lots of stuff going on, it's been a while since I had a monday update video.Go to https://www.ggby.org/More than halfway to our 1000 Patron goal, help us get there please! https://www.patreon.com/howNOTtoHighline... |
 | Hauling Giant Big Wall Bags up El Capitan
9. 11. 2022 15:48:48
Big Wall #10 of 14Hauling can be a nightmare, or just a chore depending how you do it and if you stay organized. Keep it simple applies here as well. Jumping straight to a 2:1 or worse a 3:1 (which needs a redirect) may not give you much advantage but add 2x or 3x the amount of work to get the bag... |
 | You need to know this before using the Alpine Butterfly Knot
12. 11. 2022 14:59:48
Alpine butterfly knot is a midline knot that is easy to untie after it has been loaded. The problem with knots that are easy to untie, is they untie easy. We discovered while pull testing this that it slips, though at fairly high forces. We also discovered that if you tie it slightly wrong, it st... |
 | Ascending Up Big Walls
16. 11. 2022 14:59:53
Big Wall #11 of 14'Following' up after our leading episode, we show you from your partner yelling 'off belay', releasing the bag, cleaning up the anchor and ascending the rope with a few easy lower out examples when the gear isn't plumb below the anchor. You get two demonstrations to see what's dif... |
 | I nailed climbing ROPE to WOOD
19. 11. 2022 14:33:54
Here is a funsies video of something I found on instagram. I didn't milk it, i nailed it! Do you like short and sweet fun videos? Extreme Gear https://www.extremegear.org/ 10% off Rocky Talkie by clicking https://www.rockytalkie.com/HowNOT2... |
 | Getting down from Big Walls is dangerous
23. 11. 2022 14:59:48
Video #12 of 14Leading may appear to be the riskiest part of climbing and give you the most adrenaline but rappelling potentially causes many more deaths. In mountaineering, how many times have you heard of people summiting only to die on the way down. When you get to the top, you are only half do... |
 | We couldn't break it
26. 11. 2022 14:59:57
How strong are V threads? The rope in a loop is going to be strong enough to catch any whipper and be a 10:1 safety ratio to rappel on. The real question is more about how strong is the ice. We did 5 tests in this video and found the 6mm and 7mm ropes break when installing them with 21cm screws b... |
 | Aid climbing roofs is harder than you think
30. 11. 2022 14:59:48
Big Wall #13 of 14Here is a real-ish life example of the hardest part people struggle with, including people struggling so you may be convinced to go practice this before having to do this for real on a wall. ... |
 | I rode portaledge like magic carpet
3. 12. 2022 16:23:01
I always wondered what it was like for Aladdin on his magic carpet ride. Thank you Taylor Palmer (https://www.instagram.com/whiskey.throttle1/) and Ian Smith (https://www.instagram.com/gingergiant83/) from Rope Swing Moab (https://www.instagram.com/ropeswingmoab/) for helping me figure out how not ... |
 | Full Example Start To Finish | Big Walling
7. 12. 2022 16:01:56
Big Wall #14 of 14Here is one pitch OUTSIDE of everything from aid climb leading, to hauling, to cleaning. Find a place where you can dial in your process, even if it's just one pitch (that is out of people's way) but will ensure that you can be successful when you attack your first wall. ... |
 | Everything in the lab is gone
10. 12. 2022 15:42:42
I made a new slow pull machine and am moving my lab INSIDE my house. I can have a lab 1000 miles away if I'm just trying to make videos 1x or 2x a week. But I'm trying to answer every question about gear at a super good enough level, and having the slow pull machine where I live and if it is INSID... |
 | This rappel ring could kill someone
14. 12. 2022 17:22:58
How strong are rappel rings? It only needs to be about 2x more than your weight to hold you during a rappel (in case you don't rappel smooth). Add a little safety ratio for good measure and it's super good enough. The problem is if it wears down. https://www.instagram.com/kevhamrich/ pulled this... |
 | How Peru is Building Community
17. 12. 2022 17:29:16
When your favorite slackline and highline spots are getting shut down by the cops, what are you going to do? When Miraflores in Lima was closed to slacklining and La Molina outside of Lima began prohibiting highlining, Hugo Flores and his friends decided to talk with the authorities. What they fou... |
 | Animated Knots was wrong
21. 12. 2022 16:53:51
My fellow Dyneema (HMPE) nerds: Grog loops are a continuous loop made with a brummel type connection so, in theory, you don't need to sew the splice. We tested how short the buries have to be to be super safe enough (spoiler alert: not too short!) and we discovered you don't exactly get the theoret... |
 | History of HowNOT2 on Climbing Majority Podcast
24. 12. 2022 14:59:49
I talk about the beginning and behind the scenes of HowNOT2 on the Climbing Majority Podcast. Most of todays climbing media is focused on what happens at the edges of the sport involving the most experienced and talented climbers in the world. Your hosts Kyle Broxterman and Max Carrier believe that... |
 | This gear is changing big wall climbing
28. 12. 2022 14:59:51
We tested tons (or grams) of big wall gear from Skot's Wall Gear. Alfifi hook, rivet hangers, personal anchor systems, and a bivy belt. All our results are in this blog: https://www.hownot2.com/post/skots-wall-gear... |
 | % Out Of Me - This Arborist Rope Scared The S
31. 12. 2022 17:43:23
Tenex Tec is a polyester arborist rope that is rated to 83kN. It is hollow braid which means it's meant to be spliced. We tested this rope with one fid bury instead of two like it requires. We were able to get full strength out of it. When we pulled the last test to 85kN, the machine struggles t... |
 | Why are these marketed to rock climbers
4. 01. 2023 14:59:50
Climbtech Removable Bolts are fancy and work great and broke super good enough, but we aren't sure if they have a ton of value for rock climbers. I'm sure there is the niche case where they can help, please comment where you find them useful or if you have them. According to CT's manual 1/2' RBs ar... |
 | When should you stop trusting this
7. 01. 2023 14:59:48
How worn down can mussy hooks be before they become dangerous? We pulled on 2 good ones and 3 worn down ones from 5 Gallon Buckets route in Smith Rock. Other 'open systems' where you can just clip in are the Ram's horn and permanent steel carabiners with captive eyes. They all broke super good en... |
 | If you do this, DON'T do it wrong
11. 01. 2023 16:13:31
You are mid-slab and it starts pouring -- time to bail! You look down and there is nothing on your harness. You have is a sewn runner over your shoulder. How do you get down? We've got a clever solution for you, the Texas Rope Trick! It is a great technique that can save you, but it's unforgiving if... |
 | Intro to Ice Climbing - Harder than you think
14. 01. 2023 14:59:53
We have 4 glacier guides in Iceland introducing you to Ice Climbing. This was going to be 3 episodes of Gear, Anchors, and Technique but we were able to smash it all cohesively into the one video you see above. Naturally, as this was filmed in Iceland by Iceland guides, this is taught on glacial i... |
 | Who would do this
18. 01. 2023 14:59:49
Climbing hangers feel sharp and seem obvious they would be bad for a rope, but for some reason, some people have done this. We test dynamic and static ropes in sharp hangers and hangers that are designed to have curved edges so ropes could be threaded inside of them. In our recent video of the 'Te... |
 | You have 10 of these, one could kill you
25. 01. 2023 16:20:35
What if I gave you ten quick draws, but told you one wasn't going to hold a fall, and you don't get to know which one? Would the dirtbag in you still use them? Many of us have used draws that are over 10 years old and we tested two separate batches where each one had a result lower than the force ... |
 | Petzl said to NEVER do this
1. 02. 2023 14:59:50
Don't fall on teeth, because I did it for you. Toothed devices are intended to be progress captures up a climbing rope or in a complex pulley system. If you get a high enough force, it can desheath your rope and possibly cut through it. Petzl says that happens at 4kN and we did some human testing... |
 | What shreds climbing rope first
4. 02. 2023 14:59:52
We tested some other devices on ropes after putting out https://youtu.be/4GaZgJ-RLXA a few days ago about micro traxions and having requests for other devices. This data and video will be added to the micro traxion blog at https://www.hownot2.com/post/petzl-micro-traxion... |
 | These were RECALLED
8. 02. 2023 14:59:47
Ever get to an old hanger while climbing, clipped it, and wonder how strong it is? Bobby got his hands on recalled hangers, death hangers, niche hangers, discontinued hangers and we broke them all. A total of 27 tests. Some were old hangers that have never that had been installed and others that h... |
 | How to Make DIY Lighting for YouTube Videos
16. 08. 2016 01:17:15
An instructional DIY on rudimentary studio lighting and techniques for YouTube vlogs. Dos and don'ts of how to buy, set up, construct, and maintain inexpensive lighting alternatives to give your videos a much needed punch.... |
 | Think Tank Mirrorless Mover 30i Unboxing & Review
22. 08. 2016 23:59:01
My comedic unboxing and review of the Think Tank Mirrorless Mover 30i, complete with bloopers and all. If you want to buy one, heres the link: http://amzn.to/2gvx44x. Thanks for watching! Please like, comment, & subscribe.... |
 | Canon Speedlite 430EX III RT Unboxing & Review
26. 08. 2016 02:56:00
Comical yet informative unboxing & review of the Canon 430EX III RT Speedlite. Comparison to 600EX and feature overview. If you want to buy one, here's the link: http://amzn.to/2ff8bqU Thanks for watching! Please like, comment, & subscribe.... |