Hike.uno
Hike.uno
Login
Login
Username:
Password:
Login
Not registered yet? Registration.
Forgot password?
      

Mont Blanc / Monte Bianco

Print
TamaraTP27. 06. 2018 16:25:24
Congratulations Bojan A. and colleague. Nice report.
(+1)like
dprapr27. 06. 2018 16:36:52
You really have a lot of energy.
Excellent trip and nice photos.
(+2)like
lijaneja27. 06. 2018 19:34:37
Bojan is really an excellent field reporter. I think among the youngsters he comes closest to Dejan in fitness.
(+2)like
Shkaro6. 08. 2018 12:05:49
02.08.2018. We climbed to Mont Blanc from the Italian side via Rifugio Gonella... we had wonderful weather and excellent conditions (at the top sun, light wind without clouds nasmeh )

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10213445295101422.1073741893.1071632319&type=1&l=0d0e7b3e70
(+7)like
Parkeljc12. 09. 2020 23:41:48
On Wednesday 9.9.2020 at 02.00 with a slight delay we start from Jesenice towards Fernetiči and further past Venice, Milan.. through the 10 km tunnel to Chamonix. We took the gondola to Bellevue or. to the La Chalette hut at 1794 m. We waited almost two hours for the next transport by cog railway. We use the opportunity for refreshment in the nearby bar or something similar, prices "French" zavijanje z očmi. But why worry about prices, since we are in France and a hamburger for 8.- EUR is something self-evident as well as some hot sandwich for 6.- EUR.
Finally we await the arrival of the little train, with which we go to Nid d'Aigle at 2380 m. Here we get off and up the slope. Finally we will start the test of the weight of our backpacks on our shoulders, which we will carry for the next two days. Pure hell, I tell you velik nasmeh.
After two hours we arrive at the Tete Rousse hut at 3167 m. We had plenty of time, so we arrange formalities in the hut regarding sleeping (we reserved the beds about two weeks before), breakfast,.. we unpack and order breakfast at 01.30. Each with our own thoughts we slowly lose consciousness (read: doze off, fall asleep,..) and at 01.15, when my alarm rings, no one wakes me, so I continue until 01.30, when one by one we get up and go from the room to the dining room, where breakfast awaits us. We also find our own among many thermoses, full of hot tea (1 l = 6 EUR), if I can call it that. We paid 12.- EUR per head, and got a piece of cheese each, a slice of some salami, two pieces of bread, a croissant with butter and jam (mini), instant coffee powder, 1 dcl of juice and approx. 3 l of hot water. Good thing some of us had no appetite.
At 02.30 we set off towards the next hut Gouter at 3863 m. A gentle ascent follows and we all expect the crossing of the infamous couloir, which on average takes 4 lives every year eek. First we listen a bit if we can hear any falling or flying stone projectiles, then we cross it as quickly as possible at a suitable distance. We conclude that they fly much more frequently from the Jalovec glacier than through the couloir. After crossing the couloir, an easier ascent follows on a nicely visible path in switchbacks, then a steeper ascent where it was necessary to grab the rock, and when the slope becomes even steeper, a nicely fixed cable helps to the old Gouter hut. From the old to the new hut it is just a few minutes walk along the pronounced and snow-covered ridge. Interestingly, this hut was at a much higher level compared to the lower-lying Tete Rousse, where we slept. Here we equip ourselves with winter gear, i.e. crampons, ice axe, helmets were already on our heads, warmer gloves, we form three teams (2-2-3) and let's go onto the snow cool. The initially gentle slope becomes steeper and steeper, seemingly without end. When we arrive at the plateau and the Vallot bivouac appears to us, the majesty and extent of the range and the Mont Blanc summit finally reveal themselves. From this point we realize that the hardest part of the ascent is still ahead. We descend slightly to the foot of Vallot, then steeply in switchbacks up the icy slope to the new plateau. With altitude, with every step the legs become heavier and heavier, as if additionally weighted.
After roughly good eight hours of walking and overcoming 1700 m of elevation gain, we conquered the summit in full formation. Maybe we didn't have conditions for 100% views, but the fact that all 7 of us reached the summit was more than enough for joy. After finishing the photography, tired, we head back the same way, as the fogs quickly rose and obscured the magnificent views, especially towards Chamonix and far into the interior of France and Switzerland, which were there just minutes ago. First we descend slowly and carefully along the same path on the hard and snow-covered trampled path to Gouter, where we dismantle the gear, then as quickly as possible past Tete Rousse to the little train on the cog railway, which we luckily catch by the tail (5 min before departure) eek.
Everything worked out timing-wise, otherwise there would have been another 1500 m descent to the van, which no one fancied. Luck in near-miss had the last two of the group of seven, who during the descent at the couloir crossing experienced a real barrage of flying projectiles the size of a cubic meter or even larger. They were very lucky not to have stayed in the couloir, which we had almost underestimated that morning. Good ending, all good.
first cableway1
at about 1800 m altitude2
...3
second cableway4
final station of the cog railway at 2380 m5
towards Tête Rousse6
Tête Rousse7
...8
portion for 7 people ...9
On the plateau below Bivouac Vallot10
View towards the summit, Vallot below it11
zoomed in..12
At Vallot13
View into the valley, Chamonix14
below the summit15
at the top..16
group and..17
..fire brigade..18
the fog lifts..19
into the valley..20
Gouter..21
...22
towards Aiguille du Midi23
new and old hut24
towards Tete Rousse25
above Tete Rousse26
Aiguille du Midi27
Close-up28
locals29
couloir..30
upwards..31
crossing possible via three variants - paths..32
towards the rack railway..33
(+15)like
bos13. 09. 2020 05:16:13
Congratulations all.
You've awakened memories in me ... 15 years have already passed jezik.
(+3)like
mukica13. 09. 2020 07:30:37
Congrats all, nice trip and experience that stays engraved in the heart forever nasmeh
(+3)like
jaz13. 09. 2020 07:54:41
Congratulations, memories go back 35 years. Best regards!
1
2
(+3)like
Majdag13. 09. 2020 09:24:50
You were super, Parkeljc, congrats all..nasmeh
(+2)like
drofebo113. 09. 2020 09:33:17
Congratulations from my side. I also happily looked at the path walked and refreshed the memory of it, which I did in '99. The new Gouter hut wasn't there yet.
(+2)like
oldtimer 5513. 09. 2020 09:40:55
Congratulations to all for the super ascent. You also awakened memories in me from over 40 years ago. Since then a lot has really changed. And some shots for reviving nostalgia.nasmehnasmeh
Without beer, it wouldn't go.1
2
3
Below bivouac Valot.4
On the ridge5
On the summit6
7
on the return8
Back then we could still wild camp, no one chased us.9
(+11)like
j.13. 09. 2020 17:07:30
Parkeljc, congratulations for the excellent tour! Memories from over forty years ago, while reading your description, are also bubbling up in me all by themselves. Cogwheel railway, Refuge de Goûter, Vallot bivouac and huge backpacks, heavy legs due to altitude and length of the ascent... Everything described and pictured seems to me just like it was back then long ago. Really nice!
(+3)like
Parkeljc13. 09. 2020 17:28:57
Thanks for the congratulations, all mežikanje
When looking at the oldtimer's pictures I shudder at the thought of setting out on such a tour with that gear in those times. Of course, once and now - like night and day. Back then the summit ascent was much harder. Just the transport from home to the starting point was an adventure of its own, about which I could write myself. But that's not the forum topic.
Luck with the weather is needed too. And we had it. The base was squeaky all the way, practically no wind, no cold either. All that could have been completely reversed and then the ascent very questionable. Sometimes weather forecasts couldn't be predicted so accurately, though forecasters sometimes... I believe back then it was much harder to turn back and travel home due to bad weather, today you just turn and do the ascent in better conditions. Of course it's not free, but can't be compared to back then. Transport means weren't so comfortable, mobile phones that ease everything regarding weather, various additives in drinks, food etc etc etc... All that eases the ascent a lot today.

So hats off to all who summited in those times..
(+4)like
dprapr13. 09. 2020 18:21:03
Back then (35 years ago) the biggest problem was finances. Our wages and theirs weren't comparable.
But you could go by train there. That's how we went the first time with a colleague. And mostly free (except last part from Brig on), as we both had our railways' tickets. We ascended Aiguille Verte and Mont Blanc. We slept in a little tent behind the britof hut, wild.
Interesting to see new and old shots from the mountain.nasmeh
(+6)like
lubadar13. 09. 2020 19:17:50
Drago, I too was on top in '85. The whole year I saved for this feat, what remained went for gear, at home then almost nothing could be boughtzavijanje z očmi
(+4)like
VanSims13. 09. 2020 19:23:03
Those were harsh times.
(+2)like
dprapr13. 09. 2020 19:29:12
VanSims, still using the ice axe I bought there then. Those from harsh times are more durable.
Lubadar, maybe we met somewhere. On the white mountain I was 26 July.
(+4)like
lubadar13. 09. 2020 19:42:11
Drago, we didn't, we were first week in August. But on return our kombi broke down, so expedition extended two more days.
(+4)like
VanSims14. 09. 2020 16:48:05
"We find that from Jalovec glacier flies quite more often than via couloir."

Yes, just that from Jalovec glacier mainly fly relatively small stones (limestone), from couloir but, as you almost experienced going back, oho ho huge granite pebbles! eek
like
Tadej Bolta14. 09. 2020 17:23:52
...at 3am there aren't many flights either. Projectiles come during the day, when the sun hits the slope.
(+6)like
Page:123...678910
You must log in to post a comment:
Username:
Password:
Login
If you do not yet have a username, you must first register.
         
Copyright © 2026 Hike.uno, Terms of use, Privacy and cookies