Mont Blanc / Monte Bianco
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| nejcf4. 06. 2023 16:01:19 |
When Jakob and I met almost two years ago at some party, we quickly realized that mountains and climbing are a big common point for us. So the idea of Mont Blanc quickly arose, which we realized last week. We also had the honor of having Slovenian alpinists Nejc Marčič and Tina Di Batista with us, among others.
So last Tuesday in Chamonix, 6 of us boarded a 4x4 van that took us up the steep and really rough road to Bellevue, since the gondola and Tramway du Mont Blanc aren't running yet at this time. On the north side we crossed the slopes of Mont Lachat and joined the cog railway at the saddle. They had just started plowing it in this section, so there was still huge amounts of snow on it. Through the snow we ascended to Tete Rousse hut, the last part along the ridge was trampled straight up. In the hut we met Marija Štremfelj, who was guiding her client to the summit the next day. After not exactly comfortable night we quickly crossed Grand Couloir, which was still completely under snow, and reached Gouter in 2 hours. Followed a rather strenuous ascent to Dome du Gouter, where the sun rose and from where we first spotted our goal. A little above Vallot bivouac Jakob unfortunately had to turn back due to altitude issues, a bit higher the other trio turned back too. I still felt very good, even though not acclimatized. So Nejc Marčič and I persisted another good hour and around 10am stood on top of Mont Blanc (Marčič already third time that week). Just then the weather started deteriorating quickly and so we descended back down in the snow. Behind us three more conquered the summit, all after that turned back. Someone was even rescued by helicopter due to exhaustion. In Gouter I went straight to rest in a comfortable bed, since next morning 2000m descent awaited us.
We had really excellent conditions for the ascent. Both huts were fairly full, but still nowhere near summer crowds. To sum up super week, whose icing on the cake were two days of pampering in Chamonix after the ascent.
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Congratulations on the ascent of the highest peak of the Alps!
How the years fly by, it's already 18 years ... maybe again sometime. If I were closer ...
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| lubadar4. 06. 2023 21:47:46 |
Congratulations, you've awakened memories of 38 years ago
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| rokeg4. 06. 2023 21:47:57 |
Congratulations on the ascent also from my side.
It tempts me too, but no one is interested in going with me or I have no one. Already 10 years my highest is Petzeck...
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| zokipoki5. 06. 2023 07:30:33 |
Congratulations! Very nice!
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| mukica5. 06. 2023 11:56:48 |
Congratulations on the nice tour , I also have unforgettable memories of it 8 years ago
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| franca5. 06. 2023 14:40:05 |
 1
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| nejcf6. 06. 2023 08:50:05 |
Thanks everyone!
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| lijaneja6. 06. 2023 13:46:44 |
I'd like to go too, now while I'm still young, but can't find a mentor.
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| dprapr6. 06. 2023 15:50:34 |
For this mountain you really don't need a mentor. Just money and will to drive there and hit the weather matching your lodging reservation.
In the past it was easier. You could go anytime and sleep anywhere. Normal approach is like winter Grintovec. Just objectively more dangerous due to falling rocks.
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| lijaneja6. 06. 2023 16:59:36 |
I've had the will for thirty years. Tried three times, last time when the couloir collapsed due to permafrost melting (the path section with falling rocks you mentioned) between Tête Rousse and Gouter, had to turn back.
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| felix7. 06. 2023 07:54:55 |
Congratulations to all who made it up there. I didn't succeed though, tried twice, got to the bivouac then turned back due to weather. Now years unfortunately don't allow it anymore.
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| lijaneja7. 06. 2023 08:07:28 |
Sadly we're in the same boat, @felix, but I still hope...
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| Dr_Ursic7. 06. 2023 09:14:59 |
Bravo congrats nice description 
Anyone know if you can book hut stay and summit without guide? Info varies 
Thanks,
LP
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| turbo7. 06. 2023 09:43:13 |
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| Dr_Ursic7. 06. 2023 10:20:19 |
Thanks @turbo
Translation of the question: Can I go to Mont Blanc alone or do I need a guide?
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| Dr_Ursic7. 06. 2023 10:23:31 |
Of course you can if you realize it's a real alpinistic ascent not just high-altitude walk or hike. Most accidents on Mont Blanc are due to lack of basic alpinistic skills by inexperienced climbers. For our guided courses no mountaineering experience needed, but for solo essential otherwise serious life risk.
LP
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| turbo7. 06. 2023 10:41:59 |
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| lijaneja7. 06. 2023 18:48:36 |
That's good news, Bojan. So only the reservation at the mountain hut remains, and hope for nice weather during the event.
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