Buying climbing shoes for a beginner
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| neph15. 11. 2010 20:11:17 |
I've reached the point where I've decided to buy my first climbing shoes. I've read some tips on the internet (mostly from forums), but they aren't consistent. What should I pay attention to when buying? Some recommend ~a size smaller, others don't... Today I tried two of the cheapest models in Kibuba one size and 1.5 sizes smaller than my foot, and it squeezed me quite hard especially on the big toe area. I know climbing shoes usually stretch about a size, so I'm in doubt... Some say for beginners it's better to buy comfortable ones, i.e. large enough climbing shoes...
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| tol15. 11. 2010 20:22:55 |
I've been climbing since this spring. That's for starters.
I'd divide climbing shoes into two categories:
- from synthetic leather and similar materials that don't stretch, so you buy the size identical to your foot.
- from natural leather that stretches, so you buy (for starters) up to 1.5 sizes smaller than your foot.
Comfort? Since you're starting climbing, buy a basic model of climbing shoes, i.e. with non-aggressive toe and downturned shape. Because at the beginning you won't climb routes that require top climbing shoes.
For starters buy something comfortable > example La Sportiva Cliff. Quite affordable and comfortable climbing shoe, quite popular model. They do stretch though. But the thing goes like this > as a beginner you buy comfortable shoes for easier routes and indoor wall. Then climb as much as possible, you'll "destroy" the shoes and resole them, depending on needs you'll buy better technical shoes for slightly harder routes, use the old ones nicely for long easy routes and indoor wall. And so on. Then you'll be experienced enough to know what to buy yourself.
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| aljazek15. 11. 2010 20:29:07 |
My first climbing shoes were Triop, which really stretched a lot and fell apart within a year. Now the second ones are La Sportiva Katana with laces, which hug my foot super, tight enough to stand on small edges and still comfortable for some mountain routes. I personally prefer laced shoes, because better feel and they hug the foot nicely tight. 
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| Zebdi15. 11. 2010 21:09:36 |
First it would be good to know if you're buying shoes for mountain routes or sport climbing.
Regarding sizes: some manufacturers have adjusted sizes, others don't, some shoes stretch like chewing gum, others not at all, so any generalization about sizes is quite inaccurate. La Sportiva stretches, same Scarpa, while Five Ten don't. General guideline: the shoe should hug your foot nicely tight, but not squeeze. With Sportiva and maybe Scarpa you can take half size smaller than stated, as they stretch, but with Five Ten don't even think about it. Try several different models and choose the one that fits your foot best. Personally I swear by velcro, probably also because I have very tight shoes and velcro allows faster putting on/taking off. Someone mentioned Katana; I think that's a super model for both beginners and advanced climbers. Popular are also Five Ten models Galileo and legendary Anasazi, lately Evolv shoes are gaining ground too.
That's it for now.
Best,
P.
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| JTrogar15. 11. 2010 21:22:23 |
@neph
don't as a beginner fall for salespeople who at purchase tell you to buy a smaller size of shoes. I recommend laced shoes and that big enough so they don't squeeze when trying on, regardless of material. Imagine yourself in too small ones in some longer route. It's real suffering, you can lose a nail and no real pleasure. I lace them looser in the wall, tighter in crag, as there we usually climb harder shorter routes. They serve me great.
http://www.iglusport.si/plezalniki-cliff-5
Best regards from under beautiful Mozirje mountain, Janez.
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| neph15. 11. 2010 21:47:06 |
I'll use the shoes mainly for sport climbing. Over winter I plan indoor wall, next year various crags (indoor isn't my favorite, but I realize it's great for learning basics and more). Just yesterday by chance I climbed first time with borrowed shoes, and those way too small (I think 3-4 sizes  ), so today I have totally swollen toes and heel pain. Before that I tried climbing few times with trekking shoes, since I didn't have climbing ones. Summarizing your advice - buy about foot size, focus on comfort? Worth spending 20 or 30eur more at start or not? Say I today mainly because of price tried these:
http://www.kibuba.com/index.php?&cID=3&scID=23&pID=698
http://www.kibuba.com/index.php?&cID=3&scID=23&pID=705
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| Zebdi15. 11. 2010 21:50:37 |
JTrogar, if he takes a very comfortable Cobra, after the fifth, sixth route it will be too big, with too big soft climbing shoes the toes can suffer already on routes rated 5a, 5b... It is just more comfortable to climb in tight-fitting climbing shoes  On the other hand, if he takes a too tight Galileo or Anasazi, it will stay too tight forever. Not all climbing shoes are the same and the same rules do not apply to all. I have a foot size of 42.5 and my ideal Katana is 38.5, while Galileo 41.0 were too small for me
Of course the above applies to sport climbing and not at all to longer routes.
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| tol15. 11. 2010 21:51:10 |
Climbing shoes from natural leather should be at least 1.5 sizes smaller, because they stretch. Suffer a bit at the start.
From synthetic leather and material that doesn't stretch, buy the normal size.
Good contribution on the climbing shoes topic
> http://www.podsteno.si/images/userimages/kakkplez.pdf
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| neph15. 11. 2010 21:58:11 |
As I observe, here also there are quite divided opinions... Can you perhaps recommend a specific model available in the Kibuba or Iglu Sport store (these two I have within reach)?
+ not too high price, in my opinion there is no sense in spending 100eur on the first ones...
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| tol15. 11. 2010 22:00:26 |
Buy Cliff 5, good and affordable climbing shoe. For the start more than enough. You get it in Iglu Sport.
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| neph15. 11. 2010 22:09:59 |
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| tol15. 11. 2010 22:28:46 |
My last comment> read my post, which contains a link from the association for the development of climbing culture, which thoroughly advises how to buy climbing shoes.
Then go to the store and buy what fits your foot. Like this over the internet it doesn't work> verified! A beginner colleague bought climbing shoes online during bad weather, threw away the receipt, box etc, after two weeks we went climbing and at the crag found out that they pinch him so much he can't even put his foot down. Thank God for "good" retailers and they exchanged his unused climbing shoes at least for vouchers, even though he had neither receipt nor box,...
Go to Iglu, Kibubo, Promontano and try on the shoes. You don't need any top climbing shoes. When you've climbed at least a route graded 6c, you'll know what you need anyway
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| neph15. 11. 2010 22:42:31 |
I don't intend to order climbing shoes blindly online, I'm just asking for generally suitable models, whose different sizes I'll of course try in stores. Thanks for the advice, it's somewhat clearer to me what to choose!
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| aljazek15. 11. 2010 22:44:28 |
I had Triop Orca and after one year they opened up in several places - even at the toe. Climbing shoes are okay, but they stretch a lot after a few routes. (when they dry, they shrink a bit, after one or two routes they are already too big) Rubber isn't that quality either. If I were buying first ones again, I'd buy Cliff...
My Katanas I won't change anymore :-)
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| sla16. 11. 2010 08:05:01 |
I last bought some climbing shoes for 50.00 EUR from Šeli in Rožna dolina (don't know if he still has a shop there). They are really crappy and I use them only for easier climbing on artificial wall. But they would be quite solid for a complete beginner. Only after some climbing time do you find out what climbing is, if it interests and pleases you at all, and finally, what you expect from climbing and thus what shoes you need. Tol wrote that well in his first post.
Don't buy expensive shoes at the beginning and especially not very downturned ones, choose more classic ones.
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| Zebdi16. 11. 2010 08:08:40 |
Cobra are ok; they are very soft and stretch quite a bit, but the rubber sticks like glued. I don't like them personally because they're annoying to put on, but they are good. One of the finalists in Kranj even climbed with them
Šeli still has a shop in Rožna, yes. Check www.vengatrgovina.si
Regards.
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| Tomažke16. 11. 2010 08:41:08 |
I also got La Sportiva Cobra recently. My foot is 44, I bought 42. The seller at Iglu in BTC said they should be at least 2 sizes smaller. I haven't used them much yet, so I hope I didn't buy too small ones. I agree with Zebdi that they are a bit awkward to put on, so I don't take them off when belaying a buddy for example. Because of that I miss the laces. The grip is really good though.
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| neph16. 11. 2010 10:41:30 |
Big thanks to everyone for the advice!
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| viharnik16. 11. 2010 13:11:09 |
As I noticed, users highly value the Five Ten brand of climbing shoes.
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| JusAvgustin16. 11. 2010 19:47:39 |
la sportiva for life!
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| aljazek16. 11. 2010 20:22:15 |
Hehe, yeah, you have La Sportiva winter ones too  their models fit me best too
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