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Celovška špica and Svačica

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Parkeljc1. 06. 2011 21:39:46
Since the weather is pleasant in the morning, we decide on the less crowded Celovska Spica and Svacica. Starting point at Tinčkova hut, then left through Zagon, where the path occasionally gets lost in the forest, especially above the hunting hut. I advise good observation of the surroundings, as there are quite a few cairns that lead us higher to the path which joins the poor path from the Hut at the source of Završnica over Šija saddle. Further the path is well visible and trodden. When we reach the entrance to Skledo, signs correctly direct us towards Svacica, but we continue for a while on the poorly visible path towards Stol (snow), then directly towards the state border along the gully to the saddle under Celovska Spica (Orlice). From here we continue along the border ridge, after a few minutes of steep climbing it seems we're in a dead end. We continue through a narrow passage between two rocks, the passage is visible only when we step through it, then a path appears on the steep northern side (slip hazard), after a few meters of climbing we spot a cable, with which we climb to right under the summit with the cross. Later we find out the cable is the lightning conductor of the cross, so I advise climbing the last three meters instead of along the lightning conductor to the right of the boulder and not right under the cross. On the top there are two crosses set up, the logbook box with book is on the one meter lower and nicer cross (2109m), a few meters further there's just a provisional cross (2110m) with border stone.
We descend the same path and continue towards Svacica over Belščica saddle. Soon we reach the summit, which is entirely on the neighboring side about 30m from the state border. We descend the same path past the saddle, but not to the branch for Stol, but a bit earlier we cut across a shortcut namely along the scree right under the unnamed peak between Celovska Spica and Svacica and reach back to the path by the big boulder. Then to Šija saddle, from there to the Hut at the source of Završnica and to the starting point at Tinčkova hut, where a few drops of rain splash us, above the peaks where we were it's already properly thundering and flashing.
Celovška špica and Svačica hunting hut1
Celovška špica and Svačica Srednja peč, Stol and Celovška špica2
Celovška špica and Svačica at the saddle below the summit, Kozjak in the background3
Celovška špica and Svačica gotta go up there..4
Celovška špica and Svačica through this passage to the north side5
Celovška špica and Svačica view back, the passage is on the right6
Celovška špica and Svačica smaller, 2109m peak7
Celovška špica and Svačica larger, 2110 m peak, Stol behind8
Celovška špica and Svačica towards Kozjak and Svačica9
Celovška špica and Svačica towards Stol10
Celovška špica and Svačica Medvedji dol, Vajnež on the left..11
Celovška špica and Svačica hikers in Skleda12
Celovška špica and Svačica Belščica saddle and Svačica13
Celovška špica and Svačica from the summit of Svačica towards Stol, below it Celovška špica14
Celovška špica and Svačica towards Vrtača15
Celovška špica and Svačica border ridge from Celovška špica to Vajnež16
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heinz1. 06. 2011 22:17:50
The unnamed peaks between Celovška špica and Svačica are apparently two: Jelenčka, left of the Špica there should be Krkotnik 2116 too. It pulls me up there a bit.. and,.. how does it look, worth going solo e.g.? What comparison -say Zelenjak or Skalaška?
from Stol1
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Parkeljc1. 06. 2011 22:37:04
Yes Heinz, something like Zelenjak, maybe from the crossing to the summit a bit more demanding, but nothing special, stow the poles and grab some rock. From the saddle to that crack I used poles all the time. But the path to there is crumbly, if you can call it a path at all, now visible now not, but some cairns help too.
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heinz1. 06. 2011 22:50:34
do you mean this? (hope I upload..)
Did you climb here?
1
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Parkeljc1. 06. 2011 23:06:18
Yes, a bit above the grass, or where that tip on the right side is, right next to it from the left is the passage and after a few meters you see the lightning rod. We climbed with the help of the lightning rod, even better to climb from the right side of the boulder-rock which is right of the lightning rod (just in case). Attaching a situational photo too.. LP
from the saddle towards the summit1
descent along the lightning conductor2
and another one..3
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heinz1. 06. 2011 23:19:27
I think I get it. Thanks!
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urbancek6. 10. 2011 18:39:01
Today I did a nice circular tour and conquered the "quartet" of peaks above Celovška hut. First up the climbing route to Stol, then to Celovška špica, to Svačica and finally to Ovčji vrh aka Kozjak and return to the parking before the barrier. Trail overall bp or I didn't notice any peculiarities...
Great tour, for the last sunny day of this longer sunny period.nasmeh

Regards!
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robter22. 08. 2012 09:38:32
Yesterday I climbed to Celovška špica from Ljubelj. With quick steps to the top in 2.5h. The last part through that narrow passage is quite adrenaline-pumping, especially on descent, since no mistakes are allowed.
On top there's a logbook, from which it's evident the summit is visited only every few days by one or two persons.
On descent I also visited Srednja peč, which is a wonderful peak, also very little visited, and Srednji vrh.
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Choxxxa16. 07. 2014 08:53:25
Hello, has anyone been around here recently?
I'm mainly interested in snow conditions towards Celovška hut?

Thanks and LP!
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Parkeljc16. 07. 2014 09:00:10
No more snow!
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Choxxxa16. 07. 2014 11:15:01
Great, thanks!
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Edina31. 08. 2014 18:19:47
On Friday I went to Celovska Spica, before that from Srednja Pec I checked the "situation" a bit, since I hadn't been on the Orlic ridge before. Based on what I read and heard, I allowed for the possibility that I wouldn't make it to the top. It went without problems, the rock is better than on the Srednja Pec ridge, orientation in nice weather also not too demanding. More at
http://stezeinsledi.blogspot.com/2014/08/celovska-spica-2103-m-v-grebenu-orlic.html

and safe travelsnasmeh
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ločanka31. 08. 2014 21:27:24
Edina, how do you get to that Srednja Pec?
Thanks in advance.
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Edina1. 09. 2014 08:08:38
About Srednja Pec it's really hard to find anything written. I just read that one can climb to it via the northwest ridge and it's pathless, namely from the junction of marked paths that lead to Stol from Zelenice and from Celovska hut. I went to check and found a cairn a bit before the mentioned junction. Following the cairns you reach the ridge without problem, to the ridge itself I climbed my way, but then on the ridge I again came across cairns. Where it doesn't go along the ridge, you detour to the right. I was quite surprised when on the top I saw a box with logbook. Enjoyable peak, where you watch people far below rushing towards Stol, yourself "invisible", views to neighbors beautiful and special. Safe travelsnasmeh
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JusAvgustin1. 09. 2014 08:24:03
Almost all summit descriptions are from AO Radovljica. Typical peak for group tour AŠmežikanje
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Majdag30. 06. 2015 20:59:50


..Svačica over Zagon...I went this way, but I think from the direction of Tinčkova hut it's the nicest and thus safest marked path from the hut at the source of Završnica.

http://jelenkamenmajdag.blogspot.com/2015/06/svacica.html
- Svačica ridge with the summit..1
- When you spot it..2
- On the summit of Svačica3
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mito30006. 09. 2015 22:16:11
From Ljubelj I head past Zelenica and then along the upper path towards Stol. The turn-off towards Celovška notch is marked with a cairn, which we follow all the way to it. From the notch onwards the path is a bit more crumbly in places but not overly demanding. When I step onto the northern part of the wall it was almost all ice and snow so the ascent especially the descent was more difficult. Back the same way and another super well-spent day.
towards Vrtača1
Celovška špica ever closer2
A little below the summit3
towards Vrtača4
on the summit5
one last look at the summit...6
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tinky14. 11. 2015 17:13:53
In the morning still at Zelenica I didn't know where to go. I've been to Palec, Zelenjak, Vrtaca and Srednji vrh several times this year, also to Begunjska Vrtaca and Veliki vrh, so I took the upper one towards Stol. Right under Stol I noticed a poorly visible path. Through scree and steep grass I reached a saddle, from there towards the mountain top. Only at the top did I realize I'm on the 2110m high Celovška špica. Just below the summit you have to go a bit on your own. Down I went via the lower path to Šija and under Vrtaca to Zelenica. After coffee with milk then to Ljubelj. Coffee with milk 1.5 euros. The pig at Blejska koča still strongly leads, 2.5 euros.mrk pogledI also noticed some on the via ferrata at Plot.
1
2
3
4
5
6
Branch to Suho ruševje7
Middle summit8
Stol and Celovška špica9
10
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I go up there14
Ovčji vrh15
Celovška hut16
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Crosses wherever you look18
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Before the summit quite demanding20
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Broken cross22
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This one is also more worn out27
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On Stol30
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Towards Šija34
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Hut at Završnica37
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From Vrtača they go39
On the peak to the right I was40
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Šentanski scree awaits snow42
on the via ferrata43
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also Košutica and Veliki vrh / Košuta /45
lower station46
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lynx21. 12. 2015 13:25:53
Actually we only went to Svačica, but it doesn't have its own open thread. If anyone is going from Tinčkova in that direction, I recommend via Zagon, because it's dry practically until joining the upper path. Around the road and onwards from the hut towards Šija is often icy/slippery, so the detour isn't worth it.

Towards the end of the gully there are no snow problems, because there's little and it's slippery only in two short spots. At most for microspikes. From the junction onwards over both saddles to the top there's no noteworthy snow.
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ljubitelj gora23. 12. 2015 20:00:17
Afternoon Završnica-Srednja peč and at the end also to Celovška špica, didn't need crampons or ice axe.
Srednja peč1
Celovška špica2
svačica3
...4
passage5
Path to Stol.6
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