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Civetta (3220)

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Janez Seliškar11. 10. 2013 13:34:43
Right, because it creates a sense of security which actually isn't there. In case of an unforeseen event everything would probably go into the abyss, which is quite deep on this path.
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Zebdi11. 10. 2013 13:35:45
I'm a bit curious how it's all put together. As far as I can see, pieces of dynamic climbing ropes are used and as it looks, a belay plate is also used. I don't dare to judge too quickly here velik nasmeh
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jedriličar11. 10. 2013 14:04:47
I agree with Juš, this is the best way to disappear, you think you're protected, but in case of a vertical fall you go down. Useful only for traverses ... and not for ledges either zadrega
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Zebdi11. 10. 2013 14:16:09
Well no, not that I disagree, but why? Which part of the system doesn't provide safety? jezik
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jedriličar11. 10. 2013 14:17:40
Here, on this link, pages 3 and 4 show two examples of handmade self-belay kits, with the fact that these have a belay plate:
http://www.volontar.net/javno/clanki/samovarovalni%20komplet_loti.pdf
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Zebdi11. 10. 2013 14:21:47
That's what I'm talking about. It seems to me that this one on the controversial photo might have a belay plate - that's why I said I don't dare judge too quickly. If it doesn't have that plate, then any safety is of course an illusion, if it does, then maybe the thing isn't completely crap.
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jedriličar11. 10. 2013 14:27:40
I agree with you, zebdi, I meant generally those homemade self-belay kits, but if you get a belay plate costing cca 15 EUR, carabiners 2x10 EUR, bit of rope, you're almost at 40-45 EUR, but for 50 EUR you can get a factory, certified self-belay kit ...zmeden
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Zebdi11. 10. 2013 14:28:13
Here I absolutely agree too nasmeh
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Picuger11. 10. 2013 21:44:20
You guys who've been „long“ in EU have „X-ray“ sight velik nasmeh but it's not well set. How don't you get that the blue thing on harness in pic 11 is plate dissipator?? as other end of rope thru it is clearly seen (what else??). System is classic Y same as homemade in Jedriličar's article p.3 nasmehPersonally I have factory self-belay kit but who wants to save, maybe 20 euros matter, if works per PS, why not… right Jedriličar who judges right away mežikanje don't whine cuz lil kidding jezik POZZ
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Picuger11. 10. 2013 21:47:26
Otherwise guy on pic 11 has 72 years, and damn he did Coldai - Alleghesi - Normale - Coldai tour in just 10 hours. Hats off to our old buddy Nini!!
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jedriličar11. 10. 2013 23:57:52
Come on read again. I didn't comment 'that' kit from pic 11 anywhere, but generally those homemade kits. Whoever wants to save, let him. Hope only he won't fall so savings bite him. Regards
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Trobec4. 09. 2015 13:23:01
Last weekend we, this time with PD Vitanje, headed to Civetta. Saturday plan was drive to Passo Giau, ascent to Nuvolau then ferrata on Averau. But last part slipped due to traffic jams and arrival at Passo Giau only at 11.30, then descent to Passo Falzarego. Bus took us to Piani di Pezze, then last ascent to Rifugio Coldai – our overnight. Sleep for members 10€, food bit pricier veg soup (no meat) say 7.50€, schnitzel w side 13€. Beer bit salty (4.50€ for 4dl), but decent cheap very drinkable red wine (9€/l).

Followed (at least harder group) early rise and 5am start to Civetta. Little after 6 breakfast before ferrata entry with great sunrise view. Some up soon after 4 had breakfast at hut.
Despite large group total 14, ferrata ascent smooth no issues. No weak link in group. At 10.45 on 3220m. Someone say masochist but beer carried from home (cooled overnight outside hut) perfect on topnasmeh Crowded up there. After ferrata met some singles and 8 hikers group, but most take via normale we descended. Descent path nasty lots scree watch slips. Bit before Rif Torrani wires pegs start. This path very demanding too. Descent long Pecol bus pickup 1800m lower. Actually waited bus (easier group) beer analysis tour.
Few words ferrata Alleghesi. Not most technical (level Kopiščarjeva Prisojnik), but very long over 700m wall wires. Staples many parts, soon entry long vertical ladder. Pull-up strength spots just couple (maybe shorter arms/legs differ).

at Passo Giau. Similar to Vršič or Mangart saddle, here too tourists outnumber hikers1
La Gusella2
Tofane3
towards Nuvolau4
5
Rifugio Averao6
towards Passo Falzarego7
pond on the path8
Averao, it was also today's target, but 1.5 hours delay due to traffic jams took it9
Rifugio Coldai, where we overnighted10
Pelmo bathed in the redness of sunset.11
Moonrise.12
Preparations for the start at 4:59 :)13
Civetta at sunrise.14
15
Day is breaking in the mountains.16
Morning after breakfast (photo: Janja Jelen).17
Vertical section shortly after entering the via ferrata.18
A somewhat less steep section.19
20
Gendarme along the path.21
After the upward chimney.22
Still a bit of chimney.23
Alleghe with the lake.24
Left Marmolada, right Piz Boe. In the background (snow-covered) Visoke Ture.25
At the summit (photo: Feri Kropec).26
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mirank10. 07. 2016 21:42:21
The summit was not the goal of our yesterday's tour, but it probably fits this thread. We started just after 7 from the parking at Rif. Trieste along the closed service road to the junction under Torre Trieste, turned right. Past the Tissi ferrata branch, normale and Alleghesi to the summit left and several right to Moiazze and pastures below, after almost 7h at Rif. Sonnino-Coldai full like a beach by the lake (easy access most tourists), so continued under N wall of Civetta to Rif. Tissi. From there another 1.5h to Rif. Vazzoler and 1h to start. If this round tour up-down around tempts anyone, walking cca 10.5-11h net, recommend same order. Elevation ~1700m, Italians call it Grande anello Civette. Shade till 10 then partial clouds and wind made it bearable despite length, but in autumn split into 2 days joy for all. Oh, snowfields you cross several, safe, different story visible in normal descent (ascent) Civetta, currently recommend gear.
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pikpok21. 07. 2017 21:01:03
Yesterday on this nice summit via ferrata "Alleghesi". As a starting point, my friend and I chose "Casera della Grava" instead of the usual one described here. Started from the car a little after 3 on path 557 and arrived at the wall at 5 as it dawned. To the summit needed another almost 2h (average pace). Small snowfield only on path before wall entry. With a little care crossable without winter gear. Descended "via normale" (no specials). Informed at the hut anyway, even if descend Tissi ferrata no winter gear needed. Just after hut small snowfield bypassable. Whole day met one single hiker on path.
1
2
Pelmo summit.3
4
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malimiha8. 08. 2018 12:55:47
Hi,

Has anyone been to Civetta this year? What are the conditions like?

regards
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mirank28. 07. 2019 14:28:14
When we started at the Grava pasture, only cows' eyes were staring at us from the darkness, the cows lying along the pathzavijanje z očmi. The moon was hiding in slight fog, as it had rained a couple of hours before. Somewhere on the Tivan path we could already take off the headlamps, at the entrance to the ferrata it was already a nice day and it lasted until the returnvelik nasmeh. What can I say, a tour as it should be, views unexpectedly good. Probably the somewhat unreliable weather forecast and the working day contributed to us having the mountain almost to ourselves. Well, the caretaker at the Torrani hut was glad to see us, and we met one local on the descent.
Behind rocchetami Cristallo is visible, right Sorapiss1
2
Preparation before entering the ferrata3
In the direction4
5
nn6
nicely one after the other along the ridge7
8
9
Ridge towards Coldai10
Coldai pond - we were there the day before11
Group pale - Cima Vezzana, Cimon della Palla12
Rifugio Tissi and below Col Rean Alleghe by the lake13
14
M. Pelmo and Antelao15
near the junction on descent - decision was for Via Normale16
Already towards the bottom before the last rock jump17
18
still a look up where we descended - not quite innocent here either19
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Primozz_941. 10. 2019 22:19:01
Has anyone been to ferrata Alleghesi recently? Is there any new snow?
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Razbojnik1. 10. 2019 22:54:11
Snow is forecast for these days. To be sure call the alpine guides in Val di Zoldo.
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felix2. 10. 2019 07:53:05
I'm interested in the rating of that ferrata and how long the ascent takes and then descent via normal route? Lp
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