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Dolkova špica

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Mcgiver12. 02. 2020 17:55:47
Nice tour and pics, but the dog is even nicer smile. Good luck
(+5)like
Filip_Culjak12. 02. 2020 18:27:25
Mcgiver, I agree big grin
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exwannabe12. 02. 2020 19:07:36
I can only agree with both predecessors.smile Nice dog.big grin But I'd just add one story. A few years ago my buddy's husky "slid away" on the slope above Pastirci when we were going to Kamniško sedlo, because there was some icy snow in between. It ended luckily, but after that he always preferred to have him on a leash on steeper terrain.
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Filip_Culjak12. 02. 2020 19:30:32
Well said exwannabe, I agree. Because of such situations I always carry 30m rope and climbing harness when the dog goes along. When the dog senses danger, it doesn't go further. Same if I assess it's too dangerous, better turn back, no need to risk. That day we were lucky conditions were great for the dog, except that little jump near the top where I belayed him smile thanks for the advice, always welcome smile
(+6)like
nenap12. 02. 2020 19:34:26

Congratulations to you both and Arya for the very demanding ascent big grin
Best regards N
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Filip_Culjak12. 02. 2020 19:39:43
It's not that very demanding, but it's very looong nasmeh maybe that's why this peak isn't visited much
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Mcgiver12. 02. 2020 21:56:14
Filip... I would sincerely praise you too, because you try so nicely to write in Slovenian. nasmeh
(+11)like
Filip_Culjak12. 02. 2020 23:57:09
Thanks Mcgiver nasmeh
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Heavy_bull31. 08. 2020 21:28:25
Last weekend circular variant: Vrata - bivouac IV - Dolkova Spica via SE ridge - Rogljica - Rakova Spica - Kucelj - bivouac IV - Vrata. I provide description of my route on the ascent part to the top of Lower Dolkova Spica via SE ridge.
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lijaneja31. 08. 2020 22:35:43
Ha, open Rakovo too, and your page will be full.nasmeh
If you catch the first cairn below and follow at least fifteen, to lower Dolkova Spica it's just 'more demanding walk'. Did you maybe measure something, at what height the big cairn is located that should mark the top of Lower Dolkova Spica?
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Heavy_bull31. 08. 2020 22:58:13
My watch at Lower Dolkova Spica (big cairn) showed height 2,535 m.
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lijaneja1. 09. 2020 08:13:42
Thanks for the answer. At me 'Locus Map' measured only 2524m.zmeden Probably at that moment too few active satellites??
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coffee7. 07. 2021 15:47:28
Today on Dolkova via SE ridge.

As for snow conditions in ascent need to cross snowfields, two largest right below and above bivouac. Early morning when snow still hard, it was fine without winter gear. Ridge then completely bare, as expected. Somehow I managed well to find passages, but constant westerly blew all along and directly on ridge between both summits power went up two gears. It started worrying me about gusts, though I'm pretty solid.

On descent took marked path to bivouac. Otherwise had Škrlatica in mind, but due to warning about active avalanche abandoned it. Towards bivouac-Križ fork still two tricky snowfields, but can bypass most of them.

It was a fine day.


Short cloud video: https://imgur.com/NN6IAj0
Morning1
another morning2
there3
Stenar with dark background4
darkness from Stenskih vratc5
sheep don't care about clouds6
the bivouac neither7
sunshine elsewhere8
towards Tominškovi, Pragu and Kotlu9
one rošca10
more rošce11
up the meadow12
interesting weather phenomenon, below there is also a link to a short video13
up14
even higher15
somewhere there16
towards Rokavom17
just straight ahead18
as long as there is still some wind19
came from there20
above the cloud21
Škrlatica22
WARNING!23
Vratca without fog24
hiker25
those snowfields need to be crossed or bypassed26
flatter descent to Vrtača over scree27
visitor28
(+7)like
mdenac10. 10. 2021 19:25:24
Yesterday we went with friends to "try" first snow of the year and for the tour we chose Dolkova Spica itself. From Vrata we started at half six and were quite quickly at bivouac, where somewhat deeper snow starts (to bivouac last 100m altitude about 15 cm). We planned to ascend Dolkova via its W slopes where scree in summer, traverse to marked and via it past Red Saddle to top. Because around bivouac we lingered a bit searching for ptarmigans, we started ascent a bit too left and immediately plunged into bushes where it broke to waist. Although we got out of bushes fairly quickly, wading accompanied us right to top, making ascent physically quite strenuous. To about 2300 m snow had hard crust that broke with every step, higher snow sank slowly, often to waist. From Red Saddle on ridge windblown, on rocks quite thin ice. At top surprisingly calm, unfortunately weather forecasters completely missed forecast and we were above 2300 m in cloud. Lots of snow above 2000 m, in drifts often near 70 cm, but not yet settled so we could walk without winter gear. For steeper more demanding ascent would definitely need it!
The only sun we had on the whole trip.1
Snow on the path to the bivouac.2
View of Cmir, where the weather was no better.3
Stenar in the clouds.4
Belka in the fog.5
Today the SE ridge would have been particularly wild.6
Route of ascent along the south slopes.7
On the edge of the clouds.8
Here and there, the oxygen blue appeared :D9
Saddle between Dovški Gamsovec and Dolkova špica.10
Gubno11
Icy pinnacle of Dolkova špica.12
Ice decorations on the rocks.13
Luka and Jon traversing the slope.14
Dovški Gamsovec in the fog.15
DG a bit closer. The sheer edge towards Krnica was particularly frightening in such weather.16
Luka ascending towards Rdeča škrbina.17
Rdeča škrbina.18
Scenic ridge to the summit19
On the summit, weary and satisfied.20
Male ptarmigan during the descent.21
Also the female who joined the male. These hardy birds survive here even the coldest winter days.22
Chamois mother with her kid.23
Bivouac IV, where we had a snack.24
At the end of the tour, the entire summit of Cmir appeared from behind the clouds.25
We gladly descended into Vrata, which showed a much friendlier face.26
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anzecokl25. 10. 2021 09:14:35
Dolkova Spica via SE couloir and short VIDEO

velik nasmeh
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ljubitelj gora1. 10. 2023 23:40:53
To Dolkova Spica, first towards Škrlatica and over the notch of the peak, descended via scree to the bivouac. Already behind the peak it was windy on the ridge even more. Saw a larger chamois before the bivouac. Darkness caught me under the wall. In the valley already mostly everything calm.
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everything just to fill the municipal cash register, miraculously the cars parked all over Mojstrana won't bother them.... and of course everything is paid.12
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bo_zl2. 10. 2023 18:51:59
Paid, and not with cash. Fine 20 eur because today everyone carries a card and a battalion of apps on their phone. As if cash is no longer a payment method.
(+7)like
bo_zl2. 10. 2023 18:52:03
Paid, and not with cash. Fine 20 eur because today everyone carries a card and a battalion of apps on their phone. As if cash is no longer a payment method.
(+5)like
cofka2. 10. 2023 21:01:28
Cash will soon really no longer be a payment method. Strange times are in store for us...
(+2)like
janezs7329. 06. 2025 10:04:24
For early-summer refresh of "scree monkey" feelings I chose the SE ridge of Dolk Peak this year.

Evening to bivouac IV (it seemed to me that this year's fitness level really sucks zmeden ), morning to grassy shoulder and enjoyment of slalom around various horns and hornlets and lakes of sliding sand on more SE wall than SE ridge. Maybe I should write scree field.

But at least fun is guaranteed - so many guys I didn't see from nowhere until I almost bumped into them, I haven't had the chance to follow for a long time velik nasmeh

As many have written, there are only a few climbing moves in the tour, maybe more on the ridge from Lower to Upper DŠ (and even that not the first notch everyone photographs, IMHO). Of course if you don't intentionally linger on compact horns or couloirs.

Although almost everything slides down (sand, stones, rocks), I don't remember a spot without something solid for hold/step.

So, a mountaineering tour for gourmets.
Evening before four1
and morning above it2
first steps along the grassy ridge3
searching passages between and behind the crags4
slowly the ridge stands upright5
View of Očak6
difficulty is rarely above I7
although there are places where sticking to passages in gullies would be a sin - there some climbing moves8
but hand on heart - often along such and various scree chutes to the top of Lower DŠ9
Of course it is impossible not to gaze towards the Rokavs.10
at the end the ridge - really a beautiful part of the tour11
panorama from DŠ is of course a treasure - nowhere else can you see so many giants of the eastern Julians as from DŠ (only Martuljek champions are missing - Oltar, Ponce and V.Rokav)12
down through Rdeča škrbina and over scree directly to bivouac IV below the western face of DŠ13
(+7)like
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