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| medo*25. 04. 2011 22:16:22 |
WARNING! On the climbing path - training polygon for ferratas - at Gonžarjeva peč the cables are quite loose and the 8th anchor according to the logbook is pulled out, the watermelon-sized rock is held up only by the drill glue.
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| gornistvo26. 04. 2011 18:43:16 |
With the cables it's not about loosening the cable, but about the semi-tensioned cable system used on difficult via ferratas. For safety reasons strongly pre-tensioned systems are not allowed here.
The broken rock is glued to the massive cable anchor and not to the bolt. The problem is known and will be fixed (part of the route relocated) probably next week when we get the necessary equipment. We ask polygon users not to pull rocks unnecessarily from the wall.
Please have a bit of patience and also inform the polygon caretaker directly about observations and not via the media.
Thanks.
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| heinz26. 04. 2011 22:40:51 |
Forum participants exchange info on current conditions as each individual who visited some peak sees them - anywhere in Slovenia and even abroad. I think G. peč cannot be an exception in this regard.
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| medo*27. 04. 2011 07:10:06 |
At the same time as I posted the notice on this forum, I also informed the competent PD Vinska Gora by email together with pictorial material, who confirmed receipt of my email and took the matter into consideration and action.
I am just a mountain lover, politics does not interest me, so my warning was written well-intentioned solely from the viewpoint of safety and description of current conditions on the mountain trail. Lpp
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| heinz27. 04. 2011 07:15:18 |
medo: you did right! I think I can say - on behalf of all - thanks for the posted info on current conditions!
We will continue to do so.
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| gornistvo27. 04. 2011 18:16:05 |
Gonžarjeva peč is CLOSED until further notice.
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| stankoju13. 05. 2011 13:05:57 |
Today tested the ferrata on Gonžarjeva Peč again. The upper part is now a little more demanding than before but personally I like it even better. Started at seven, at nine when we went up the fifth time the sun was already showing its power. So it's smart to start early.
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| geppo13. 05. 2011 16:20:19 |
After 12 o'clock Tomaž and I also came to climb. You were quite diligent
the ferrata is repaired and that part is a tad harder!
Regards
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| stankoju26. 05. 2011 21:19:50 |
Today a bit of climbing on Gonžarjevi peči again, protections flawless, weather also excellent. So we climbed it 10x.
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| Fifi28. 05. 2011 13:45:07 |
Yesterday we climbed in the crag which is in direct proximity to the ferrata, since we had all the "gear" with us three of us decided to climb it free, a bit for fun It turned out to be quite nice climbing! In the lower slab maybe 6a move otherwise nice 4th grade!
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| Jany30. 05. 2011 13:39:01 |
All the time I thought that ferrata means climbing a very demanding mountain path where a steel cable is fixed for self-protection and serves only for protection. But from the attached photos I see that many climb directly on the cable. That's not it! Am I maybe wrong?
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| BT8830. 05. 2011 13:46:05 |
Yes, we'll make a film about that too
Why then the cable?
Donat and Jani, you two should be alpinists then
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| donat30. 05. 2011 13:46:36 |
I have the same opinion as Jany, that's not climbing for me, but pulling on the rope, no offense.
The cable should only be for protection, which is also its purpose.
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| klm30. 05. 2011 14:06:36 |
These are just modern ferratas. Some admire them, downright adore them. What can we do?! Whoever doesn't like them (I also find this kind of pulling up the cable absurd) simply ignores them (I try too). You just take ATC or GriGri, "rope", and go "slabbing" the rock as much as you want.
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| geppo30. 05. 2011 14:20:10 |
What can you do???
again the endless polemic opens up..
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| Jany30. 05. 2011 14:41:29 |
Nice photo, @geppo. And where is this?
Anyway I agree, everyone should "climb" (or rather pull up on the cable) as they like. Just don't claim they've climbed it 10x then.
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| geppo30. 05. 2011 14:49:38 |
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| Fifi30. 05. 2011 15:04:08 |
Jany I totally agree with you, these "Slovenian ferratas" have no meaning at all... why call them ferratas then, then some guy comes to the hut and says he's climbed Ojstrica, then I find out he went up Kopinškova path!??? Anyway we're used to this system only in Slovenia ruining the natural look of our beautiful mountains and walls with all that iron junk! Does such a "technical" ascent have any weight then?
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| JusAvgustin30. 05. 2011 16:37:37 |
ah yeah... no point talking, just let them have their fun. Anyway this is no form of climbing, neither technical nor free nor anything. Ferratas don't belong in alpinism, anyway we've debated this already. Personally I'm against (to be clear, against ferratas not ZPP!) hammering pitons and ladders, laying cables and making rope bridges and other forms of protections... But apparently it's IN. Here we'll never "agree"! Some just don't like hammering pitons into pockets and cracks... That's how it is, everyone has their taste! and that's right!
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| turbo30. 05. 2011 16:45:55 |
JusA. is quite right. Everyone has their taste. I've tried some new "athletic" ferratas, and most "classics", and I have to say there's nothing like pathless terrain with a 2 that smells like a 3
For example, those who can't manage Čop go to Slovenska, those who can't even that go to Očaka from Krma. And some don't go at all. That's it, to each their own.
I hope Cjajnik doesn't happen here too. God doesn't like them 
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