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Kočna via SW ridge

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miri15. 10. 2013 20:15:55
Tomaž, what was worse? Fall or losing the sandwich? nasmeh
Anyway, congrats for the tour.
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viharnik15. 10. 2013 20:32:37
Tomaž, oh man, if we had at least half as much sun on Kalški greben that day as on Kočne velik nasmeh. We drove past that Clio on the way back too and a bit further to Koglarjeva domačija. Congrats for the demanding and long tour! nasmeh
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dprapr15. 10. 2013 20:46:54
Nice tour!
Wouldn't agree with the "great crumbling" of the ridge. To me it seemed nice, enjoyable, mostly with good rock.
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JusAvgustin16. 10. 2013 05:48:10
Everyone interprets "great crumbling" differently. Congrats for the trip!
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cenc16. 10. 2013 07:20:32
Congrats for a nice tour on a very tempting
ridge.
I didn't notice any major crumbling either. The tour is worth repeating!
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Daaam16. 10. 2013 07:43:01
Excellent!
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Volk19. 10. 2013 22:44:58
Yes, this SW ridge of Kočna is beautiful. The neighboring southern one hasn't given me peace for a long time. Today it invited me and we had a great time.
It's much more demanding than the southwest one, both orientationally and technically. Unforgettable pathless fairytale. nasmeh

Only an approximate vris of the approach over the southern ridge of Kočna ...1
The neighbouring SW ridge is not deserted either ...2
II. degree of climbing ...3
Can you find the bivouac under Kočna? ...4
View towards Hišna gora ...5
In full 'bloom' ...6
Greeting.7
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urbancek3. 11. 2013 16:57:48
1. 11. 2013, on a really beautiful day, I headed under Kočna, aiming to find passage to SW ridge and climb to summit. Started from parking under Suhadolnik at 9:20 and higher on flat in Suho dol turned left to forest lane. Followed it to end, when path ran out went on through forest to rocky barrier. Crossed "gully" and tried to climb over rocky barrier thinking higher would be easier grassy terrainzadrega. Somehow climbed over left side but troubles didn't end as new rocky steps appeared. When quite tangled and no solution in sight I "sobered up", told myself no more and returned some 10m back to flatter area and above barrier went right to forest and started descending back. Already tired, wet from dew, full of needles, psyche not at peakvelik nasmeh. Thought then I won't see Kočna summit that day. Descended to flat in Suho dol where parking is and went to marked path to Kokrsko sedlo. But didn't feel like it so explored almost all left forest lanes there but hit "dead end" everywhere. Got to far right and thought this can't be it... Losing will and strength, precious time running out which in fall mountains isn't plenty... Told myself first lane morning turn was right and went back to steepness. Explored some right branches around 1300m no luck, then decided to return under same rocky barrier where I'd been that day. This time didn't climb it but crossed "gully" and on into forest soon to steep grassy slope giving hope. Climbed to top, tried left... no go, then broke right and saw something very happy about. Felt like Columbus discovering Americavelik nasmeh. The chute. That chute from descriptions. Lost few hours started real tour practically 13:20. Then fought mostly time but end all good. Reached "Na Križu" summit then Kokrsko Kočna, returned in dark via Dolce, Grdi graben and Taško to car arrived properly tired but satisfied in starry sky embrace. Great tour and experience!

Beautiful autumn day.1
Initially pleasant ascent...2
Rocky barrier...3
World above the rocky barrier, somewhere up there I almost got stuck...4
It took quite some time to get back, crossed some forest and tackled this steep slope.5
Lojtrca!!6
Through the grass to the Mali vratca.7
Mala vratca.8
Ridge.9
Window on the ridge.10
Summit Na Križu.11
Summit of Kokrska Kočna. At 16h still at 2520m :), descent by marked path to Dolce not very pleasant...12
Snapshot during descent.13
Last rays.14
The bivouac is enveloped in mists.15
The weather will be...16
Last look back...17
One could exit differently too. Good night!18
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dprapr3. 11. 2013 17:30:31
Praiseworthy that you shared "peripeties" in searching "path" to Kočna ridge with us. Many would wisely keep silent and then it looks like no loops on such pathless routes.
Must admit that rocky barrier tempted me too but brother and I looked further first and soon found that steep grassy cut where you turn up.
Congrats on strenuous ascent!
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urbancek4. 11. 2013 09:33:04
Thanks Drago!
It was really tough, lots of energy went pretty much to wastezadregazavijanje z očmi. Best!
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kovakija4. 11. 2013 14:59:09
See it as gathering experiences and of course fitness. I myself needed two visits to step on Križ. Congrats on persistence. lpb
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urbancek4. 11. 2013 16:24:30
Thanks!nasmeh
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eskubik23. 06. 2014 12:13:35
Our Saturday experiences from the southern ridge of Kočna.
We started around 8 from Suhadolnik, on the path to about 1400 m and then straight up through the forest. Across the grassy and wet clearing to the jump and right into the grassy gully. When it became too wet and steep, we turned left into the forest and went alongside the gully more or less straight up. At the forest exit, sadness. About 100 m above us, just where the ridge starts nicely, dense fog, in which finding passages is practically impossible. For about an hour we dried our soaked feet and waited for the sun, which every 20 min peeks from behind the cloud zmeden, then we gave up. We dropped the idea of traversing under the wall to Malih vratc and ascent via the SW ridge, as fog starts there too immediately above the second plateau. Even if I had been there, I wouldn't search for the path in such cloud. We descended to the gully of Skedoven potoka and along it to the valley - if anyone wants to pick really top-quality wild thyme, there is unlimited amount above that big rocky barrier nasmeh
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dprapr31. 07. 2015 23:27:08
Today again on this ridge, with Jovan.
Morning weather not promising. It rained maximally from Tepanje onwards. Not to mention Ljubljana. Anyway it always rains there.velik nasmeh
Towards Jezersko no rain, but all foggy and wet. So change of plan. Better wet to the knees than to the neck.velik nasmeh So instead of NW we tackled the SW ridge of Kočna.
As predecessors above noted, not easy to find the right gully. Though first time no problem, today we entered the gully very high, opposite the roe deer. Maybe new forest roads to blame. Grasses soaked us all the way. Socks wrung only twice.mrk pogled
On the ridge sun appeared and accompanied us to the top Na Križ and Kokrska Kočna, where I had enough, Jovan not yet.nasmeh
Later mists raced here and there and fully occupied us under the bivouac on the hunter "path". Still successfully found the hole and passage to the lower level.
Lojtra is still standing, although it is no longer the safest.1
We were all concluding that it might not be any wetter there (Oltarji).2
On the ridge.3
The wild world of Kočna.4
He likes the little window.5
Crumbly Veliki kup and Jezerska Kočna.6
At Križ, behind Jezerska and Kokrska Kočna.7
Visit to Jezerska Kočna.8
In the fog below the bivouac.9
Passage to the lower floor.10
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Jovan Cukut2. 08. 2015 18:46:46
A little more about a bit different, wet ascent and foggy descent from Bivak pod Kočno to Suhadolnik, in pics and comments on link below.

https://picasaweb.google.com/113805105178377351223/KocnaJugozahodniGreben31072015

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zlatica2. 08. 2015 20:50:24
Jovan, this path wasn't easy either. You keep surprising us with paths that few people take. Us, who can only dream of such paths, you enthuse with your "ridge notes" and show that the impossible is possible. Safe steps ahead..velik nasmeh
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SilvestrO9. 08. 2015 11:16:08
This ridge has tempted me for a long time too..., the upper two guys have refreshed my desire to put it first.velik nasmeh
First time visiting from this side1
...I went a bit my own way and crossed the gully only here up in the headwall...2
from Malih vratc, view back3
JZ ridge of Kočna, view back4
interesting detail and5
... little man on the ridge, product of nature...6
and the only one I saw, product of man...7
Nature also makes this.8
At Križ, summit book still from the time of the Kremenčkov...9
mighty wall of Kočn...10
continuation, ridge ahead...11
the highest in this range appears12
from Kokrska Kočna view back to Križ13
...clouds race over..., I'm just going down...14
after the renovation first time here, from the bivouac....15
....I'm going down here,...looks easy to Suhadolnik, but not quite...16
past the jump17
view of the mountain, where I got stuck...18
right up here...19
...over there down20
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ljubitelj gora23. 08. 2015 20:28:59
I go to the ridge much earlier and continue to the top of Malih vratc, descend steep grasses and SW ridge of Kočne. From the top to Kokrska and Jezerska Kočna then descend.
Kolovz, 1,2,3,4....1
already earlier on the ridge,2
along the path3
Below the summit of Malih vratc, I pushed through the brushwood, there are also some very steep sections lower down4
up to Mal vratca5
descending steep grass6
JZ ridge of Kočna7
JZ8
Kočni9
window10
Grintovec11
Kokrska Kočna12
Jezerska Kočna13
still to S peak14
...15
passage16
down to the valley, that will be enough17
nice trail18
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redbull3. 11. 2015 18:49:18
On Sunday with Urban along the initial vertical path to mali vrat then SW ridge to top at križ. Continue to both Kočne. Then under Grintovec over Dolgi hrbet to Skuta. Descent other side over Sleme-pode back to Cojzova, to valley.
Beautiful sunny, a bit windy.

http://deyangrm.blogspot.si/2015/11/jz-greben-kocne-ter-vse-kar-je-med.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHco9g2DeMA

Good luck
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redbull10. 12. 2016 15:14:19
9.12.16
Beautiful days need to be used for SW ridge of Kočna. At Vrh na Križu put on crampons, as frozen snow awaits from here on. Good conditions, only on sunny parts snow has slightly softened. Descent from Jezerska Kočna along initial nicely icy path to Zdolška škrbina. This part great and all around it. Descend shady Kremžar path to Češka koča, from there to Ledine and very wintry path to Križ. Real winter conditions with lots of snow there. Return over Sleme past Cojzova to Suhadolnik.
Report:
http://deyangrm.blogspot.si/2016/12/jz-greben-kocne-krinkakriz-91216.html
on the ridge1
towards Kočne2
ice decoration at Jezerska Kočna3
4
Kremžarjeva shady side5
above Ledine6
towards Križ7
Križ8
9
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