Mrzla gora from Matkov kot
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| Guest13. 08. 2007 09:39:39 |
Very demanding?
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| Guest13. 08. 2007 10:08:09 |
Going up is ok, but down requires great (!) caution. Some more steel cable would really come in handy. Especially on the last, slightly more "climbing" part. Very crumbly! I recommend a helmet, about a month ago when my colleague and I were poking around there, rocks were falling from all sides. And start earlier on the trail, because when the sun hits the kot, it's real hell there. A bit wild, interesting and strenuous tour. And pretty too.
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| Guest15. 08. 2007 18:12:37 |
Hi! Let me tell you my experience too. We went to Mrzla gora from Kot, descended to Okrešelj. I think this variant is better than going back to Kot. It seemed optimal to me because from Kot up it's pretty steep and walls more open (don't know how to say it, in layman's terms you feel closer to the drop if you get me) so I think it's better to go up this side. While the path to Okrešelj is much better for descent because overall it doesn't look so steep.
But it seems you need to follow the marks closely, otherwise you easily miss the direction. Hope I helped and it was understandable. Good luck!
Regards
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| Guest22. 08. 2007 08:59:10 |
Both marked descents from Mrzla gora are quite demanding, in details technically the one to Okrešelj side seems a tad more difficult. Protected very sparingly, also airy, often need to 'grab your own way' ...
But true, it's (technically) shorter than to Matkov kot (there cables even down at Škaf).
Marks are really very faded.
Optimal? Ah yes. Circular. 
Good luck!
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| UROS15. 06. 2009 14:56:14 |
Next Tuesday 09.06.2009 I plan to go to Mrzla gora, anyone going along, anyone up for it?
Regards
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| jersy5. 06. 2009 17:11:48 |
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| UROS15. 06. 2009 17:59:44 |
I'll take winter gear too - crampons, ice axe.... prepared for everything!
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| geppo5. 06. 2009 19:17:44 |
UROŠ1 - if going from Matkov kot then you need all that!! Otherwise no!
Regards
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| geppo5. 06. 2009 19:33:36 |
One more thing - descend to Okrešelj side!!
Transport usually no problem to get back where they collect entrance fee (hitchhiking always worked in minutes). Road to Matkov kot closed with barrier pretty soon at start - so anyway count on quite some walking in valley. So, counting from where you park car (Matkov kot) at least another 1:30 to ascent (snowfield) to Škaf. From Škaf to summit cca 3 hours brisk walking. Nice snowfields await you, that will probably ease the lower part a bit! Path to Škaf late autumn when dry very nasty!
yeah good luck, report follows..
Regards
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| UROS16. 06. 2009 10:52:49 |
Thanks geppo!
Studied the thing a bit better and will really rather go from Okrešelj. But will take all gear anyway, you never know.
Uroš
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| geppo6. 06. 2009 11:29:33 |
Agree - better this variant from Mrzli dol. You'll see it's not so bad.
Regards
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| dino11. 06. 2009 09:24:28 |
Yeah, what's now? Did Mrzla gora thaw and fall down? :-))))))) Lp
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| geppo11. 06. 2009 09:26:30 |
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| Horjanc14. 06. 2009 16:09:20 |
Has anyone been to the top of Mrzla gora from Matkov kot yet??
Today my brother and I actually tried to reach the summit. To the shack it went without issues. The path was pleasant - to the snowfield below Latvica. There we nicely came down from the snow field to the wall and found the chain and some markers, but they soon got lost under the snow. At that spot we turned around, because we didn't know the path and the snow was unpleasantly soft for crampons. So I'd be interested if anyone has traversed this passage in snow yet or how far to the ridge.
lp Horjanc
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| velkavrh14. 06. 2009 17:13:13 |
A few years ago I went to Mrzla gora from Ravenska Kočna via Ledine, Savinsko sedlo. It was a unique ascent. Extremely demanding because there are virtually no fixed protections. Went back the same way. Recommend only to experienced climber-mountaineers.
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| geppo14. 06. 2009 19:51:14 |
Probably turned around quite a bit before Latvica. I think you were still on the left side - marked in red (photo is 1 day old)
lp
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| Horjanc15. 06. 2009 08:24:15 |
Maybe it's true that we were still quite below Latvica, but from this picture I can't figure it out.
lp
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| robi1415. 06. 2009 08:29:41 |
I also think that's quite a bit below Latvica... I think that's the snowfield right before the drop to the meadow below Latvica...
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| geppo15. 06. 2009 08:45:46 |
The problem is that the markers (such as they are) are painted with some amount of snow in mind - now they are:
-late autumn too high (snowfields already melt a lot)
-in spring you can't see them when still under snow (but the path is much easier if you ignore slip risk - i.e. gear)
Before Latvica (viewed from the Škaf) you cross from left to right. So you traverse that glacial gully. But I think from the Škaf to Latvica it's about 1.5 to 2 hours. Very demanding orientation-wise for first-timers. I was with my son in 2007 (descending from summit) and we complemented each other well - he searched for tracks and markers with good eyesight, I pointed based on experience (my third descent) where the path should go.
So if you were already on the right side of the gully you were quite high - otherwise halfway. But I think lower than you imagine.
Lp
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| Horjanc15. 06. 2009 12:20:21 |
We already crossed the snow from left to right. And there entered the wall. Then the wire was tensioned to the left and suddenly disappeared under snow. There it wasn't clear to us anymore how the path should continue, or we didn't find tracks that someone before us continued up the path on snow. I think we must have been below Latvica already, because the watch showed we were at 1950m altitude (+- 100m).
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| geppo15. 06. 2009 12:54:51 |
No point now speculating where you stopped and turned - decision was right! Try again in a month when these snow tongues thin out more. Snow in shady spots usually lasts till next winter - just no crampons needed (ice axe)
Someone always visits that end - so you'll find some tracks. From Latvica on it's easier orientation-wise - BUT THE PATH IS EXTREMELY LOOSE AND SCATTERED WITH SCREE!!
Did you maybe come across a pulled-out peg in the steep gully??
Lp
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