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| Guest8. 09. 2007 19:50:19 |
I was on Prisank via Hanz route, very interesting path. Reached the summit in 4 hours. The snowfield is passable without ice axe and crampons, but recommend via ferrata kit and helmet. Still quite a few pitons missing, so lots of climbing, but doable with some caution.
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| Guest7. 07. 2007 00:00:00 |
Prisank, up via Hanz's gully, then Kopiščarjeva. The snow patch on Hanz's is still big and in the morning the snow was quite frozen. At least an ice axe is obligatory, crampons highly recommended. Up Kopiščarjeva gully without a via ferrata kit can be adrenaline-packed, otherwise enjoyable. No snow on Kopiščarjeva, but high risk of rockfall.
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| Guest27. 07. 2007 22:39:00 |
Hi,
has anyone been in the last day or two to Prisank via Hanz? What are the current conditions?
Thanks in advance for the reply.
Vlado
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| Guest30. 07. 2007 19:35:16 |
Me too, I'm interested in the conditions via Hanz.
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| Guest30. 07. 2007 21:03:14 |
I'm sure the snow patch above the waterfall is quite big, and it's safe to cross only with proper gear.
If you're waiting for a reply, you won't go to Prisojnik for a long time. Gear in the backpack, and go....
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| Guest17. 08. 2007 22:11:15 |
As far as I remember, I was alone on Prisojnik via all possible secured paths and from my own experience I can say the longest approach is HANZLOVA starting from KOČA NA GOZDU, 5 hours walk. Don't play hero, snow patches DON'T CROSS without crampons, think with your upper head which doesn't apply to girls and wives. This part is one of the most deceptive, MOST SLIDES due to thoughtlessness or lack of gear, some due to heroism. The path is nice long but the effort at the summit is rewarded with wonderful view of JULICE. A bit shorter is KOPIŠČARJEVA but still requires a sober head and at least some fitness not to mention experience. Descent I recommend via south side, for the most persistent path under feet then across KRIŠKO stena through prednje okno to MLINARICA, there you can decide whether to VRŠIČ about 4 hours, even nicer if you head to RAZOR 2601m and descend to KRIŠKE PODE where you'll be well served. Sleep there too and next day rested continue to VRATA, easiest via SOVATNA, second a bit more demanding via BAVŠKI GAMSOVEC to LUKNJA, on this path you'll see majestic ibex and of course marmots. Arrived at the end of our two-day trip full of new experiences and nice moments. Or we don't feel like going home at all since it's vacation time, why not jump to TRIGLAV right from LUKNJA via PLEMENICE, wonderful but strenuous descent to DOLIČA, and the rest of the path I leave to you to decide whether shortest to the valley VIA LUKNJA TO VRATA or via KANJEVCA to SEDMERA lakes, whatever you choose you won't regret. TO ALL HIKERS I WISH SAFE STEPS AND SAFE RETURN HOME. CVETKO FROM GORENSKA.
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| cvetko18. 08. 2007 13:26:26 |
I'm interested if passage through prednje okno and descent to Mlinarica is possible, something was said about repeated rockfall and no passage. I'll be very grateful for reply.
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| cvetko18. 08. 2007 13:42:18 |
My mistake, I'm interested in the passage through Zadnje okno.
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| Guest19. 08. 2007 20:48:07 |
On Hanzova path you no longer need crampons or ice axe, because the snow patch is already small and can be avoided.
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| Guest23. 08. 2007 21:47:56 |
Ten years ago I was on Prisojnik via south path, now I'd like to go along the ridge past Prednje okno. Interested if this path is much more demanding than the south one.
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| Guest24. 08. 2007 09:54:42 |
Through the Zadnje okno the path is nicely equipped. Some sections are exposed, so a self-belay kit and helmet won't hurt.
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| Guest24. 08. 2007 10:02:46 |
The last fatal victim was apparently on the southern path. The ridge one is more exposed, but has good, not too vegetated rock. Secured at demanding spots, but not everywhere. Not for dizzy people, slippery on worn spots when wet. Caution on all paths, especially descent. Good luck!
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| Guest24. 08. 2007 12:23:09 |
I suggest ascent via the ridge and descent via the southern route. Both are demanding and dangerous each in their own way, as the predecessor says. On the ridge there are some climbing spots (secured and unsecured) but at least the feel of solid rock, while on the southern descent watch out not to slip on the sand.
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| Guest24. 08. 2007 18:49:25 |
The last victim was a Croat (ZG). Momentary carelessness, fitness unpreparedness, inexperience, other circumstances...
The southern path is not so demanding, but still needs caution.
Otherwise, the ridge path goes almost to the window on grassy terrain. Rocks start a bit below the window, wire ropes above the window. Then ridge crossing. The path is harder than the southern.
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| Guest8. 09. 2007 22:21:05 |
On the Hanz route to Prisank, no pitons are missing at all, some are even superfluous! That's just how this route is. Caution is needed everywhere.
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| Guest8. 09. 2007 22:36:50 |
I also think there are still too many pitons!
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| Guest9. 09. 2007 19:55:53 |
I was there last Sunday and didn't have problems with missing pitons either.
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| Guest12. 09. 2007 22:04:37 |
with brains...
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| Taurus13. 09. 2007 12:34:44 |
With wife on Prisanku 08.09.2007, upper half of path (Slovenian or Southern route) unpleasant due to snow ca. 10-20 cm. Very carefully due to high slip risk.
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| Guest22. 09. 2007 22:43:15 |
On Tuesday I want to go with two friends up the ridge then down southern. What do you advise? Too much snow or none? If someone has been up there these days, any info welcome - big thanks all
regards
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| david24. 09. 2007 20:51:31 |
I went on Sunday 23.9. via Hanzova. In the lower part there is some snow, there are quite a few waterfalls, NO snowfields, but above Hudičev steber and further there is quite some snow and caution is needed, very slippery and I recommend an ice axe. I went down Kopiščarjeva dol, very adrenaline-packed, much less snow than on Hanzova, but still be very careful. Southern fully dry so no panic for descent to Vršič. One word CRAZY AND ADRENALINE-FILLED
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