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Prisank

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Griha5. 08. 2008 09:30:33
I'm interested in conditions (snow, state of protections) on Hanz (and Jubilee). Anyone been recently? Especially upper part of Hanz route, as I'd join from Kopiščarjeva (link-up). From summit continue via Jubilee to Kriška plateau. Any condition info welcome!
Thanks and best regards!
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Virenque6. 08. 2008 23:54:46
Today I went to Prisojnik. Due to fog I didn't notice junction for southern path and did nice loop to Zadnje okno then north side via 5m gully to intersection southern path below summit.

Who knows which path I walked? Any description on hribi.net?
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triglavski7. 08. 2008 06:36:40
First path under Zvoniki, behind Zadnji Prisojnik joined Jubilejna pot to junction with southern path. Where did you descend?
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Virenque7. 08. 2008 10:10:36
I descended of course via the southern one, since it soon became clear to me that I went wrong somewhere on the way up. Well, at least I spiced up the tour a bit, which is otherwise quite short!nasmeh
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morris8. 08. 2008 14:14:39
On 29.7.2008 I climbed Prisank via Hanz's path. The path is undamaged, so it's normally passable. But ice axe and crampons are mandatory due to the snowfield above the upper waterfall. Here you have to climb vertically about two meters on very hard snow onto the snowfield itself. Without ice axe this rise is extremely dangerous or even impossible!!! Then you have to cross the snowfield, which is much faster and safer with crampons than just with ice axe. Above the snowfield the path to the summit is again normally passable. From the summit I continued via the jubilee ladder to the last window (there's still snow in the window but ice axe not needed) and onwards towards Razor. Pegs and cables are in perfect condition!mežikanje
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morris8. 08. 2008 14:19:12

29.7.2008 ascended Prisank via Hanz route. Path undamaged, normally passable. But ice axe and crampons mandatory due to snowfield above upper waterfall. Must climb vertically ~2m on very hard snow to snowfield. Without axe extremely dangerous or impossible!!! Then cross snowfield, much faster/safer with crampons than axe alone. Above snowfield normal to summit. From top via Jubilee through last window (snow in window but no axe needed) to Razor. Pitons and cables perfect! Boldly on!

At the top of Prisank1
Narrow viewpoint in the lower part of Hanzova pot2
On the jubilee path towards the last window3
Last window in Prisank4
Immediately after the window Sebo tackles the exposed section5
Morris don't babble! Climb down already!6
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wamanda11. 08. 2008 14:20:56
And does anyone know if there's still snow if I want to go to Prisojnik through the window? Do I need an ice axe and crampons or is it OK without?

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trinity11. 08. 2008 19:45:43
On the Kopiščarjeva path on 30.7.08 there was snow barely for a sample. You definitely don't need crampons or ice axe, the path is dry, protections are great. You mean the front window....
LP
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m_a_r_e20. 08. 2008 09:46:11
Hello!
On Saturday 23.8.2008 I plan with a friend to Prisank via Hanzova. I'm interested in the route conditions, especially snowfield crossing and the required winter gear.
Thanks in advance for replies.nasmehnasmehnasmehmežikanje
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kala20. 08. 2008 19:49:14
Hi!
On Prisank via Hanz on 19.08.2008,
for snowfield crossing ice axe and crampons are still needed, which probably won't change this year because there's still a lot of snow. What Morris wrote still holds.
No other problems on the route and I enjoyed it a lot.
Only the waterfall below will soak you nicely so you'll go baptized on the path.nasmeh
Regards from Kranjska Gora and happy trails!
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Rok9. 09. 2008 19:10:24
Today I went to Prisank via Kopiščarjeva path. To the window mostly in fog, the path was quite wet, slippery in places. Out of the fog, dry ahead. From the summit via Jubilee path through the last window. Then back to the starting point at Vršič.
Protections in good condition.
LP Rok
Ajdovska girl1
Kopiščarjeva pot2
Kopiščarjeva pot3
Kopiščarjeva pot4
Kopiščarjeva pot5
Prednje okno6
Prednje okno7
Prednje okno8
Prisank9
Škrlatica10
Zadnje okno11
Zadnje okno12
Jubilee path13
Jubilee path14
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ggombo19. 09. 2008 22:10:50
Rok, how much time did you take to the top, or how much from the top via Jubilejna to the starting point?? Is Jubilejna path passable without self-belay set?? I have Špik, Jalovec, Bavški Grintavec (via Kanja), I hike without set, I'm used to it... what do you recommend?? Thanks for the answer and best! Gašper
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Rok10. 09. 2008 13:47:51
To the top about 2h 30min. From the top back to Vršič good 3h. At Vršič sign says Prisank through window 3h 30min.
Jubilejna in my opinion comparable to path via Kanja. Hardest part is descent from Zadnje Okno. On that part descent without set a bit uncomfortable for me.
Descent from Zadnje okno1
Descent from Zadnje okno2
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storžič10. 09. 2008 13:59:29
I agree with Rok, descent through rear window no child's play without self-belay set.
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skrajnik10. 09. 2008 15:16:54
Hi!

Tomorrow I might go to Prisojnik via Hanzova.
Mainly interested in that "famous" snowfield - possible without crampons and ice axe?

I'll go only in that case..

Thanks!velik nasmeh
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jersy10. 09. 2008 15:34:21
I don't recommend it.... remember what happened on Saturday?... still quite some snow and I think ice axe and crampons are almost necessary.... I think it's much better to go up Kopicarjeva and down Juzni... totally flatvelik nasmeh

Good luck!
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Volk10. 09. 2008 18:54:17
The secured section under Zadnje Okno is indeed one of the hardest of its kind in our mountains. Skrajnik, really inappropriate question.
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michael6610. 09. 2008 21:04:55
Went in 1990 in Superga via Hanzova to Prisank and stayed alive. Didn't have hiking boots. No comments please.eek
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jersy10. 09. 2008 21:11:44
You're not serious at all!... try in slippers or barefoot.. if you're proud you were on Hanzova in Superga.. had lots of luck still alive!eekzmeden
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michael6610. 09. 2008 21:20:55
You mean I wasn't serious. Now I have boots, and haven't gone up Hanzova since. Ridge one much nicer.
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