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Prisank

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antik25. 06. 2009 09:43:10
Hanz's path starts at the hut at Gozd (about 5h walk). Helmet, ice axe and crampons are mandatory on this path in all seasons, as it crosses a steep snowfield. Self-belay kit is also very welcome or mandatory. It's namely the longest climbing path in Slovenia, which is at the same time among the technically most demanding.
Tadej explained it to me.
ok. now I know.
Only I'm a bit sorry that Hanz's path and photos are not described on Hribi.net
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viharnik25. 06. 2009 10:08:41
As Tadej explained, Hanz's path is quite airy and technically demanding in snowy conditions. It requires a complete mountaineer, with a heaping measure of judgment and precision, and knowledge of via ferrata walking.
Symbolic photo from 12.6.09 - Prisank with Razor1
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capin25. 06. 2009 11:20:03
For Hanz and Kopiščar it's still too early now, but it would probably go via the southern. I think Triglavski has the best overview (and view) on that end.
For starters, a bit of cooling off1
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matejn25. 06. 2009 14:29:43
Nice greeting!
On 13.6.09 I did the ascent to Prisank via the Southern path. The path crosses two gullies that were completely under snow. Without ice axe and crampons the ascent was not possible. I would warn of extreme caution when crossing these two snowfields (gullies), because huge snow cornices extend under them and it's only a matter of time before collapse occurs (maybe it already has).
Safe steps to all!!
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lovro29. 06. 2009 12:26:19
Hi!

From 11.7.-18.7.09 I'm going to Kranjska Gora. Since I'd like to climb some 2000-er I'm interested in what the conditions (dryness) are or will be on: Prisojnik (Slovenian route), Špik (Hotel Erika-via Kačji graben), Mala and Velika Mojstrovka (south route) and Jerebica (Možnica).

Lp
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triglavski29. 06. 2009 12:50:01
Currently there are still snowfields on certain sections, (could write more about Slovenian route on Prisojnik), for conditions 11.7 - 18.7 suggest you ask a fortune teller, he'll know more how to help.
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lovro30. 06. 2009 07:37:22
Regarding Prisojnik: on the list of mountains, the only not very difficult route described is Vršič-Prisojnik (Slovenian route). Regarding future snow: based on your experiences, maybe you can predict, aha now there is still so much and that amount will surely melt by 11.7. As for mountains, I am an even bigger beginner, otherwise I wouldn't have asked any question, so your cynicism is a bit unnecessary.
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knap42275. 07. 2009 15:08:01
Hi,

regarding the Slovenian route, there is still a snowfield on it (ice axe) but the ridge route past Prednje okno is completely dry. Regarding Mojstrovka, from what was seen, Mala is completely dry, towards Velika there is still one bigger snowfield on the route.

LP
towards Mojstrovke1
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antik19. 07. 2009 22:09:43
Next weekend I plan ascent on Prisank.
Kopiščar route interests me!
has anyone gone up it this weekend?
What are the conditions? Any snowfields?
Also, is Poštarski dom on Vršič open?
Thanks
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antik21. 07. 2009 16:48:30
Poštarski dom on Vršič open
just called and made weekend reservation
they say Kopiščar route ok and people climbing it!smile
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mad matheuss24. 07. 2009 17:30:08
Today, 24 July 09, did Kopiščar and Jubilee route. Kopiščar completely dry. Snowfield under Prednje okno, route bypasses it. On Jubilee snowfields, one smaller directly on path. To avoid it. Temperatures today such that snow nicely softened, crossed snowfield slowly and carefully without crampons and ice axe, though I had them big. In Zadnje okno harmless snowfield, bypass it.
Best regards!
You have to get up early for the mountains!1
Mojstrovke in the morning sun2
damaged cable on a non-dangerous, unexposed place3
Front window from below4
window from above5
today's views from the ridge6
exposed ledges on Jubilejna7
snow field in the Rear Window8
entry snow fields below Razor wall9
the queen from Škrbina10
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antik27. 07. 2009 16:58:45
23.07. Saturday
Prisank
through window,
thundered at night but day was gorgeous!
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amorphos28. 07. 2009 13:08:48
Prisank/Prisojnik 25.07.
From Poštarski dom via Kopiščar route to summit (last Prisank/Prisojnik).
Return via Grebenska route back to Poštarski dom.
Whole trail fully passable, no snow except before window but path bypasses that part.
Weather ideal although advised not to go due possible showers.
Prisank/Prisojnik1
Ajdovska deklica2
at the very beginning3
Rope up!4
up and down the lojtrica5
view downwards through the window6
our follower7
frightened Czech woman at the window8
Hribi.net9
Ridge path - return10
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grajbos28. 07. 2009 14:21:53
Seems to me that Czech girl in jeans and sneakers??
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Fazo28. 07. 2009 14:24:49
Nahhhh... she's just sportily and elegantly dressed, y'know! big otherwise no one would look at her on the trail tongue
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bridnk29. 07. 2009 14:56:33
I'm wondering if anyone has gone up Hanzova this year
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matejn30. 07. 2009 06:45:17
YES, yes!
Protections are in excellent condition, ice axe and crampons mandatory.
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AndrejK30. 07. 2009 07:46:28
Info for Antika. Detailed description of Hanzova route can be read in Planinski vestnik 2001, issue 10. Author of the extensive article is Andrej Žemva.
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stankaf30. 07. 2009 11:25:59
On Monday 3.8.2009 I'd like to climb from Vršič to Prisank, then Razor and to Kriške pode. Planned to do Prisank via Kopiščarjeva, wondering about conditions, if anyone's gone there recently.
Thanks for reply.
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Matt30. 07. 2009 12:07:20
For Prisank, I dunno. But I know for Razor because I was up there recently. Ice axe mandatory, you have to cross 8 snowfields, 3 of them are very dangerous and very steep.
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