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| BT8830. 07. 2009 12:47:38 |
But Hanzova to Prisank from Koča na Gozdu or thereabouts there's a via ferrata. Can someone tell more about this route? Thanks.
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| andrejp30. 07. 2009 14:55:29 |
Last week Janez and I did the same tour. I can only say that the protections on Kopiščarjeva and also through the last window are ok. Nowhere do you cross snow, there's a little bit right before the last window, which can be bypassed. In Mlinarica there are really 2-3 snowfields, which are not dangerous, tracks are made, snow is soft and the runout is good too. Higher up, when turning towards Razor, there's one slightly more exposed snowfield, and tracks are made there too. We crossed it just using poles. I don't say don't carry an ice axe with you, I carry it constantly this year, but it's not that scary.
Regards and enjoy.
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| strelec195430. 07. 2009 21:48:24 |
Hanzova to Prisank is one of the more serious routes. On Prisank surely the hardest and longest route. Opposite the hut through scree up to waterfall where route goes over water right by the fall with loops and pegs to snowfield, strongly recommend ice axe. On the other side of snowfield route calms down and you soon reach fork where you can head to Kopiščarjeva route in bad weather best option for exit from Hanzova if needed, because later to summit no possible exit to easier route. Route continues past devil's pillar, must emphasize that orientation in fog quite difficult for beginner maybe too tough nut and recommend companion who knows the route. In last part route becomes quite vertical and exposed, not for the vertiginous. Do this route almost every year, this year not yet because I prefer late autumn.
rgds.
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| marko552. 08. 2009 11:57:35 |
Does anyone know how the conditions are now on the Slovenian route? Ice axe was mandatory three weeks ago. What about now? Thanks
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| Bojan_A2. 08. 2009 14:27:46 |
Yesterday they walked the Slovenian route without ice axe.
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| triglavski2. 08. 2009 18:07:18 |
"Slovenian", as far as I know it has always been the "southern route", if someone in Ljubljana renamed it let it be "Slovenian". And something else bothers me, mountains are never conquered, you do an ascent hiking or climbing, I conquer only girls, mountains never.
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| marko552. 08. 2009 19:42:02 |
On the "list of mountains" page four routes to Prisojnik are described and the easiest should be the Slovenian route.
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| triglavski2. 08. 2009 19:54:20 |
Mihelič's Julian Alps guide mentions ascents to Prisank-Prisojnik: "From Vršič over southern side" then "From Vršič past Prednje okno", "Via Kopiščarjeva route through Prednje okno", "Via Hanzova route", "From Škrbne via Jubilejna route" and "From Trenta over Kranjska planina", nowhere "Slovenian route" is mentioned. Anyway, more important than the name is how many times one traverses or climbs it. lp
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| Primož762. 08. 2009 20:31:42 |
On Saturday I did the ascent via Kopiščarjeva, where I met Bojan, and the descent via the southern side (Slovenian). There is no snow at all on the southern route.
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| epafrodit3. 08. 2009 12:37:56 |
Virenque wrote once I went to Prisojnik. Due to the fog I didn't notice the junction to the southern route and made a nice loop to the back window and then from the north side via 5m gully to the junction with the southern route below the summit.
Triglavski replied: First the path under Zvoniki, behind Zadnji Prisojnik you joined the Jubilee route and via it to the junction with the southern route.
I'm interested how dangerous this section is compared to the whole Jubilee route. Is it the easiest part?
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| vanjase3. 08. 2009 13:00:24 |
Primož76, I'm one of those two you overtook and photographed, the one in the yellow t-shirt, and I'm glad I met you and now I know who you are! As for Kopiščarjeva path, just use your brains and it's all fine, and take enough time for enjoyment, otherwise everyone has their own fun in how and how fast they hike! And just to add, it was my first time on Prisojnik and first time on Kopiščarjeva path! Best regards
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| Primož763. 08. 2009 13:02:48 |
No super, nice that we "got to know each other". I was also there for the first time on Prisojnik.
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| m.mojstrovc3. 08. 2009 14:53:53 |
I once wanted to go from Vršič to Razor via southern slope of Prisojnik, missed the path and suddenly found myself on Jubilee path through the back window....wonderful mistake!!!
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| vanjase3. 08. 2009 15:55:01 |
Bojan A are you one of those two who didn't find the path and triggered a bunch of rocks on us??
01.08.
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| vanjase3. 08. 2009 16:25:48 |
Yes, I remember and not with a good memory how you two got lost due to excessive zeal and when you descended regardless to Jeklenice and rocks were flying, luck no one got hit and there were Czechs behind us just as reckless, it gave me the chills listening from the front window what rolled under them. And on top of that both got hit on helmets both on Prisojnik and Mojstrovka which you went to the next day via Hanzova path!! So without protection and helmet in high mountains no way!!! Not mentioning descent from Mojstrovka, disaster, in regular sneakers, short pants, almost our grandmas who barely walk, and on scree, and I wonder I saw hel. with mountain rescuers twice in two days!!! Accidents can happen to anyone but people think too little of their safety and rely too much on "if something happens they'll come for me" what if not?????
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| Primož763. 08. 2009 16:53:51 |
Well if this was aimed at me I have to reply of course. I didn't trigger any rocks on the slope myself.
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