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Razor from Krnica

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matejam5. 08. 2009 07:56:40
Hello!

Has anyone been to Razor from Krnica via Kriška stena recently? I'm wondering if there are major snow issues on the route, especially in the Kriška stena section, and if crampons might be needed.

Many thanks for any info and lots of mountain fun to everyone!
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pilot545. 08. 2009 13:26:12
No winter gear needed.
Kriška stena1
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lijaneja20. 07. 2015 19:46:32
To avoid the severe heat I retreated to the Julians yesterday. Planned a repeat from a few years ago to Razor from Krnica with direct approach to summit from Šplevta direction. Morning hike was a real pleasure, sun appeared only at top of Kriška stena. Protections in this 320m wall are impeccable, but not the markings, very very faded. Lots of sand on ledges, so don't recommend descent via wall.
Strange that Razor was so empty yesterday, noted only four hikers. Just below summit of classic path to avoid rockfall, new protections work great.
Šplevta (indijanec) 2382 from Kriška stena.1
Razor, left Vrh žlebičev 2486, right Turn pod Razorjem 2394, front Šplevta, from the top of Kriška stena.2
Kriški rob 2366 - descent from the summit towards Šplevta is very demanding.3
Left Gubno 2404, right Dolkova špica. Behind it, only the little peaks of Rogljica, Škrlatica and Spodnji rokav are visible.4
Zg. Kriško jezero and Pogačnikov dom. Behind: Pihavec, Šplevta 2224 and Zadnjiški Ozebnik.5
Turn pod Razorjem, Prisank and Indijanec.6
Towards Krnica.7
Stenar, before it Križ, before Triglav Bovški Gamsovec, front left - Šplevta again.8
Firbca.9
View from approx. 3 m lower northern summit towards Kranjska Gora.10
On the main summit only one guest.11
MMP, VMP and Škrlatica, before it Rakova špica, Rogljica and Dolkova špica.12
Vrh Žlebičev.13
In front Bovški Gamsovec and Vrh nad Kamnom.14
Jalovec and Mangart15
In the background Rateške Ponce, to the left Mojstrovki, highest Prisank16
In front of Pogačnik's hut. Bavški Grintavec, Srebrnjak and Trentski Pelc, in front Goličica.17
Kriška stena18
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Irina20. 07. 2015 23:31:45
Congratulations on the exceptional tour!!!
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Edina21. 07. 2015 21:55:03
nasmehnasmehnasmeh
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gral22. 07. 2015 13:56:28
Nice. Was it a one-day tour?
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Sorok22. 07. 2015 14:32:53
I join - great, super explanations at the picsnasmehnasmeh
Good luck!
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lijaneja22. 07. 2015 18:50:20
Thanks for the kindness.
The tour isn't particularly long, so with average fitness you manage in daylight hours. The descent in fierce afternoon heat is the most annoying.
I checked my notes that in July 2003 (when I was still young velik nasmeh), on a full-day tour I made a garland around Kriški podi -Stenar,Križ,Razor,Planja,Pihavec,Bovški Gamsovec. I think I could repeat it now only in really ideal conditions.
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dprapr22. 07. 2015 20:07:57
With average fitness in ideal weather yes, but in these hot days for such a one-day tour you need to be quite physically prepared, which you undoubtedly are, despite "youth".

Remember when someone "chewed you out" a while back that you must be young then if Mrzla gora time seems excessively set to you.nasmeh
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mailman22. 07. 2015 20:09:28
Master!!!
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lijaneja22. 07. 2015 20:10:47
nasmeh
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lijaneja21. 08. 2020 18:03:05
Yesterday I treated myself to this unusual approach to Razor again. Classic parking below the third hairpin, almost half an hour 'warm-up' to the Krnica hut, tea and short chat with hikers bound for Špik. Though I started late, I enjoyed pleasant cool shade to the top of Kriška stena. Fixed gear in the wall practically unchanged from five years ago, except one loose chain, all super. Sadly marks unchanged too, just more faded.velik nasmeh
Soon I turn off the path to Kriški podi steeply to the edge of Kriška stena. Forgot from last time that descent from it is very demanding, had to work hard. Of course couldn't skip Šplevta, up in good ten minutes. Excellent view from it, especially to Razor and my approach. Luckily extremely steep scree fairly short, quickly under the wall. Then oh dear. Wanted to improvise a bit, attacked wall too far left, but it resisted quickly. Carefully down (ca. 20m, quarter of an houreekeek) and try a bit right again. Same song, but good-looking hold collapsed - three-point system saved me. Adrenaline up, but old head saves - down right away. Third time lucky of course. Lost thick hour. Finally right entry where gone up twice before - to box half hour good II.nasmeh
Descent classic marked, break at Pogačnik, then good Šmarnco climb, annoying wall descent as sun merciless. From there to Mali kot no more issues.
No shower this time, Dani's kremšnita not missed.
My today's goal already in the sun1
Martuljški Ponci during the ascent to Kriška stena2
Above the scree3
Goličica 20784
Only rock, stone and scree5
On the edges of Razor: Vrh Žlebičev and Turn. In front Šplevta6
Some snow in permanent shade still remains7
Škrlatica and Dolkova špica from Križ8
Rokavi and Dovški križ.9
Kanjavec and Pihavec.10
Upper Kriško lake and Pogačnikov dom.11
Lipnica, Špik, Dovški Gamsovec, Rogljica, Dolkova špica, Škrlatica and Sp. Dolkova špica on the horizon, in front Gubno 2366 from Rob Kriške stene.12
Above Bovški Gamsovec, Glava in Zaplanja.13
Turn, easily accessible unnamed blob and 16m higher Indijanc.14
Stenar and Križ in front of it.15
Zelnarici above Prehodavci.16
This steep scree slope devours at least two bananas.17
For the frame18
I still think about it. Turn under Razor 2394.19
Summit of Razor (exactly in the middle) from the slightly lower fore-summit.20
Martuljški Ponci with Škrlatica and Dolkova špica.21
little peak22
Planja23
Pelci, in the back Žrd.24
Kriška stena, in front Šplevta.25
One after another: Rob Kriške stene, Križ, Stenar, Cmir and Rjavina.26
Welcome light mists.27
Kanjavec about 30 m lower28
Vrh Žlebičev.29
Route of the very demanding descent from the Rob of Kriška stena30
Podrtija31
Planja with the Utrjeni stolp32
There were no little bees33
Vetrnica is operating34
Up there - a little higher...35
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dprapr21. 08. 2020 20:11:36
You used the nice day well.
We have similar thoughts.mežikanje
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lijaneja21. 08. 2020 20:43:42
More or less circling the stonenasmeh
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mdenac23. 08. 2021 11:28:25
Yesterday with three friends we did ascent to Razor from Krnica via pathless past Indian as described in previous posts. Missed the spot to leave the marked path a bit: we left it too high probably and landed on uncomfortable ridge just below summit Kriški rob (Kriška stena edge), lost at least quarter hour searching passages before reaching comfy terrain below Šplevta. Skipped that summit, but more into photographing ibex families grazing there. With little grumbling quickly munched scree to top where nice cairn still at ledge entry. On ledge two gullies suitable for ascent, but (logically) picked easier one farther from ledge start. At its top turned right to ridge though could have gone left closer to summit. Short ridge traverse to top marred by bad friability. Few people on summit (not like nearby peaks), cooked polenta in peace nasmeh. Descended to Pogačnik hut pleasantly surprised by brand new fixed aids on path just below Razor top - apparently finished day before.
The tour started the previous afternoon with a magnificent view from Krnica.1
Chamois along the path to Kriška stena. photo: Jon Poljanec2
The view of the starry sky was spoiled by the full moon, which made it almost as bright as daytime. photo: Jon Poljanec3
Sunrise below Gubno.4
Young ibex. photo: Jon Poljanec5
Morning view of Razor, Turn and Prisank.6
At Bovška vrata.7
Somewhere on the ridge just below Kriški rob - probably the classic approach via scree below the ridge.8
Šplevta.9
10
Young ibex and the shattered base of Turn. photo: Jon Poljanec11
Scree that must be crossed to the summit. In the middle, the ledge is visible, along which we head left.12
Among larger rocks just below the top of the scree we found a boundary stone dated 1920. Rapallo border?13
Entry to the ledge.14
At the top of the gully.15
Ridge towards the summit.16
Colorado potato beetle just below the summit - obviously it went to the heights in search of potatoes.17
On the ridge just below the summit.18
View from the summit to the traversed ridge.19
Ibex below Kriška stena. photo: Jon Poljanec20
Strawberry tree. photo: Jon Poljanec21
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jbs23. 08. 2021 11:52:18
Congrats! Just a question regarding new fixed aids... Does that mean the "via ferrata" below summit now additionally secured?
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lijaneja23. 08. 2021 11:54:35
Great tenth picture with Turn 2394. Did you come across any glowing tapes that some are still there from my exploration many years ago?
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mdenac23. 08. 2021 12:19:30
Thanks for the nice words smile No, unfortunately we didn't find the tapes, but these ends are certainly some of the nicest for exploration smile
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jbs23. 08. 2021 13:29:11
Thanks, I checked FB, they really made pegs like on a conveyor belt now, which is right, since it's SPP.
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anzecokl22. 03. 2022 10:02:00
The last winter day served with sharp frost and wind that drove the rope team in the wall high above Krnica to the top and warm sun. Descent to Mojstrana from Razor ridge is very long "smile"
In the SW wall of Razor1
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ločanka22. 03. 2022 13:01:29
You probably meant the last winter day"smile"
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