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| Zebdi24. 08. 2013 11:01:47 |
Hehe, so no one relies too much on theory. Ropes will hold falls in ideal conditions, no panic.
http://www.sci.ccny.cuny.edu/~cleary/other/fall_test.html
These heroes tortured the rope with factor 2 falls, and it held. Also DAV wanted to check how long the rope holds before tearing. The thing is well described in Schubert's book, but as I recall, they got well over 100 UIAA falls. But both tested in ideal conditions with bombproof anchors, without any sharp edges and such. In real conditions the picture could be quite, quite different 
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| Bobaje24. 08. 2013 11:04:03 |
Dynamic elasticity of rope goes up to 40%.
Arrest force on dyn. rope 9.8mm factor 2 and 80kg at:
2m=6130N
4m=6177N
8m=6192N
20m=6134N!
40=6134N!!
but that's how the world is, you serve facts and they crown you an egoist, I think...
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| Bobaje24. 08. 2013 11:06:28 |
Zebdi, my posts refer exclusively to ropes, anchors, banging on rocks; that's already another story.
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| Zebdi24. 08. 2013 11:12:47 |
Bobaje, I understand that and definitely agree. Just wanted to emphasize that other factors can be decisive too, not just the rope. 
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| Bobaje24. 08. 2013 11:16:16 |
In my whole career really no case of accident due to snapped rope. Everything else but that
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| Keko24. 08. 2013 11:22:34 |
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| dprapr24. 08. 2013 12:00:27 |
Theory is one thing, practice another.
This rope (11mm) barely held approx. 5m fall of the second. Of course it rubbed somewhere on a sharp rock.
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