|
| Branee11. 02. 2013 13:41:27 |
what is 10-20 meters of rope? nothing..
|
|
|
|
| jedriličar11. 02. 2013 14:10:53 |
@1mitjas: thanks for the remark, of course I know it's half rope and of course I don't climb on it alone, when climbing I carry two (pair) or long single (80 m) 10 mm (mammut). This iceline serves me mostly when I need to belay someone from above on slightly steeper gully (40-50 degrees) or to abseil around some tree or similar in summer conditions. I know enough about ropes to never climb on single half rope. Lp
| (+5) |  | |
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin21. 08. 2013 14:40:53 |
Yeah really not for bungee! For some rappel it's totally OK. Where did you get that it's NOT for climbing?!
|
|
|
|
| gorolazka21. 08. 2013 14:48:22 |
On Kibuba page...they write not suitable for climbing, below recommend for climbing
Features:
■Rope NOT suitable for climbing!
■Light and compact rope
suitable for carrying in backpack.
■Rope protection Long life protection
prevents water and dust from getting into rope and extends lifespan.
■Length (m): 30
■Rope diameter (mm): 8.2
■Weight (g): 1,230
Recommend for:
■Climbing
|
|
|
|
| Keko21. 08. 2013 15:09:26 |
No guide rope is suitable for alpinism because no specified impact force and number of falls it withstands. Heavy falls problematic as not intended for it. For rappels and top rope climbing without long falls no problem.
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin21. 08. 2013 15:15:18 |
I think LG meant not classic alpinism but securing short jumps not 20m+ falls. Rappels shouldn't be problem either, stick to no falling in mountains. For alpinism always double or twin ropes  Number of falls varies by manufacturer. Hope helped.
|
|
|
|
| GričarA21. 08. 2013 15:30:14 |
What do you recommend for self-protection, what do I need at all, self-belay kit and climbing harness anything else,(I already have helmet)?
I need this for secured paths (cables etc.) not for free climbing....
|
|
|
|
| Keko21. 08. 2013 15:39:25 |
As long as only secured paths are in play and not some difficult via ferratas, what you listed would suffice.
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin21. 08. 2013 15:59:32 |
"Mountaineering" ropes aren't meant for climbing and alpinism anyway! More for glacier roping when crossing glaciers. That must be clear! Otherwise no sense in reinventing the wheel, even with 6mm accessory cord you can do a lot...
|
|
|
|
| jedriličar21. 08. 2013 16:04:16 |
Ropes of that type are perfectly suitable for climbing, however keep the following in mind:
- they are usually half ropes (half rope) so we mustn't climb on just one rope
- too short (usually 30 m)
which means if using 2 such ropes (2 x 30 m) you could climb lengths up to 30 m without problem, which is not long enough for alpine routes, so nobody goes climbing with such ropes. And at sport crags nobody climbs on half or twin ropes, but mostly on single rope.
So all those comments that these ropes aren't for climbing are inaccurate, but it's easier for the manufacturer or seller to write that the rope isn't for climbing than to face potential lawsuit because of some idiot who didn't read the instructions. But that's why such ropes can be used without problem for e.g. top roping (lifting client) or short abseil or hauling etc....
| (+5) | | |
|
|
|
|
| jedriličar21. 08. 2013 16:07:33 |
Thx, Juš .... 
But of course not for bungee, nor for those new swinging jumps
|
|
|
|
| lynx21. 08. 2013 22:20:32 |
primoza: in what way do the ropes differ significantly? Because of slightly greater thickness the second withstands 700N more force, the rest is not clear.
|
|
|
|
| jedriličar23. 08. 2013 09:12:00 |
@primoza: seems you're mixing apples and oranges, as we say, I don't know the Slovenian expression, so I'll try to explain things just so you don't get into an awkward situation regarding use of climbing ropes:
1. The rope you mention is a regular half rope and all I wrote above in previous post applies (checked on Edelweiss pages)
2. Testing of dynamic ropes is done per EN 892 standard (see link: http://activelife.dp.ua/wp-content/uploads/UIAA101-EN892DynamicRopes.pdf -simplified standard display), so there are no special tests for 'mountaineering' or 'guide' ropes, they are tested same as 'alpine' because that's what they are
3. Reason half and twin ropes are tested at 55 kg (single at 80 kg) is because you always climb with TWO ropes, so each holds half the impact force, but simplified two halves hold 110 kg (not exactly, but to simplify), while singles at 80 kg. So people like me (ca 95 kg, with gear 110 kg) always have to calculate above the upper test force limit, those within or below don't worry
4. I see you're mixing half rope and twin rope terms so briefly:
- twin always clipped in pair to same karabiner
- halves clipped alternately to karabiner so each follows its line to reduce friction
- halves can be used as twins (clipped in pair to same) but not vice versa, twin not as half
- and MOST IMPORTANT: when using halves, if clipping alternately each to its line, NEVER, absolutely NEVER clip both to same karabiner, because in fall different stretched lengths could cause one to rub against other (where both clipped) and longer burn through shorter, leading to fall instead of stop
That's it briefly, if anything else ask
Regards
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| neph23. 08. 2013 09:35:58 |
Jedriličar, as far as I know, half ropes (those marked 1/2) are not clipped into the same karabiner, although many do it. They are clipped alternately, you can clip one several times in a row, but never together.
But there are ropes certified as double and twin at same time - those can be used as you like. I agree with the rest written.
ps. Primoza, not sure exactly for what purpose you use just one half rope, in principle both are mandatory. One strand only for belaying another (only half used for three-person team, twin never).
|
|
|
|
| jedriličar23. 08. 2013 09:40:35 |
Thx Neph, maybe I was a bit unclear, so let me try once more: half ropes clip alternately, but they can also together, but then ALL sets must clip together, not just INDIVIDUAL ones. Maybe that confused you?
Anyway, purpose of half rope is clear, just wanted to say I've met lots of climbers who don't get difference between half and twin rope, so if they use half as twin (not forbidden) then must follow rule of clipping both into ALL sets
Hope now clearer what I wanted to clarify
|
|
|
|
| Zebdi23. 08. 2013 09:48:17 |
Actually, half ropes shouldn't be clipped together, because in this case (as I understand) the catching force is too high. That's theory, but how it affects practice I have never delved into. Probably it can be reduced with dynamic belaying (also using so-called shock absorbers). Personally, I want the smallest jerk on the belay that stops the fall (especially on ice)
|
|
|
You must log in to post a comment:
If you do not yet have a username, you must first
register.