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| turbo22. 09. 2019 12:12:34 |
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| biba23. 09. 2019 10:04:58 |
zvezdica_zaspanka,
finger injuries (ligaments, tendons, fractures) actually heal very slowly. Full rehab can take up to 4 or even 6 months (depending on injury). First measure is of course rest, there are many therapies that help faster rehab, which your physio will explain to you.
You can read more about it in Martina Čufar's thesis. Martina Čufar
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| Zebdi23. 09. 2019 15:09:46 |
If you want a specialist, Dr. Martin Zorko (physiatrist) is the right address 
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| zvezdica_zaspanka29. 04. 2020 21:34:19 |
Hi everyone,
thanks for replies, experiences and suggestions - unfortunately I didn't see the last two until today, when it's probably a bit late for additional measures and specialist visits.
Still, let me report how it went on and how it is now, if useful to someone someday.
Short: still not completely ok!
Long: improvement was (and is) very slow, even now I can't fully load fingers without pain or next-day pain (especially in the morning - first few minutes some fingers are stiff and hurt if I try to bend them, after a few moves they become ok and painless again, but during the day sensitive to greater loads). Problem mainly when fingers loaded sideways - I carry heavy shopping bags with fingers no problem, opening tightly closed pickle jar is a challenge I don't dare tackle with full power. Most sensitive are middle and ring finger of right hand (and a bit less ring finger of left), most other fingers on both hands now completely ok.
Luckily I do most daily things without thinking about fingers for some months, yay!
Of course no climbing in this time, but in other sports last few months carefully and slowly loaded fingers too, with lots of warm-up before and gentle stretching after (holding badminton racket at start of playing (when I finally could really hold racket) a bandage tape helped a lot, with which I taped problematic fingers 'in H').
In winter noticed that cold worked well especially, so didn't wear gloves. I conclude that exchange of cold and heat improved circulation, so now I soak hands daily in cold or alternating cold and hot water. After lots of online sources read, it seems smart to also strengthen finger extensor muscles.
Anyway, first return visit to climbing wall I plan only in summer, full year after injury, which seemed unimaginable then  Probably it would have been all easier and faster if I had gone to specialist right after injury, but unfortunately didn't know where and now it is what it is.
As few injuries and as much health as possible to you (and myself too)
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| zvezdica_zaspanka30. 04. 2020 09:50:32 |
@primoza, I didn't know! Now I guess everything is closed :/ Any recommendations where/to whom to go in Lj?
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| Zebdi30. 04. 2020 10:20:52 |
7 months and still not OK? What the hell did you do on the boulder?  I haven't managed to wreck a finger so bad that it wasn't OK in a month or two
Look, before you start any therapies, first try to get an exact diagnosis, because 7 months is quite a lot. As I already wrote, try to get to Dr. Zorko. In private physios there are a million different therapies, each one will recommend the one they do. I usually combined some ultrasound + Voltaren + Ice Power gel, and gradual loading of fingers while climbing - from the start clearly with bandage tape alias tejp at home. I don't know how strong your fingers are, but maybe it wouldn't hurt to move and strengthen them a bit with some rubber band.
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| zvezdica_zaspanka30. 04. 2020 10:38:57 |
Haha Zebdi, let's say I've had a natural talent for such things since forever
I think there wasn't anything special, just stubbornness married to weak tendons/fingers, bad beginner technique and wrong decisions
Yeah, I fixed the rubber band and try to use it regularly. As I say, we're definitely close to me saying it's OK, just ... not quite yet.
I agree that it would be smart to get a diagnosis, but I didn't think it's still sensible/possible now. Therapies I wouldn't do anyway unless the gentlemen there explain in detail what's wrong with me and how and why the therapy will help. I'm quite skeptical by nature and don't have that much money to just pay for stuff
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| Zebdi30. 04. 2020 11:13:20 |
Interesting talents
Look, if it's improving and almost OK already, that's a sign it's going the right way. Still, it'd be good if someone properly checks you - just in case. At least at Bolder Scene (in LJ) there hang around quite a few people who could advise on prevention/rehab (competitors, ex-competitors, coaches...), so when it's open you can check it out
Next time better skip some sharp crimps or pockets for starters and stick to rounded slopers
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| zvezdica_zaspanka30. 04. 2020 13:47:07 |
In my defense let me say I was climbing a route set by the lady teacher (who sadly didn't have much feel for what beginners can do), so I didn't pick the mini crimps myself which I probably shouldn't even look at But I undoubtedly stuck to them too long and gripped them too stubbornly, that I admit, heh.
From the elders (not at Bolder Scene) back then I only heard advice like 'it's normal, rest a bit'... In short no one took me too seriously.
Found Zorka, now just get an appointment 
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