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Veliki Oltar, Dovški križ, Šplevta

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JusAvgustin4. 10. 2009 16:43:33
Yesterday afternoon my friend and I headed to Bivak II., stayed overnight there, in the morning we climbed to Great Altar, descended from it, climbed to Dovški Cross, there admired Široka peč, descended from Dovški Cross, by the way jumped to Šplevta too, from Šplevta back to Poldov rovt over a looooong scree slope. Exceptional tour, beautiful views, sunlit peaks. Tour time: total without stops 5 hours 58 minutes. Pictures coming soon. recommend to everyone who wants to feast their eyes on the beauties of the Julians.nasmeh
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rerze1121. 06. 2012 08:51:05
Tuesday 19.6. time for Martuljek beauties. Goal is clear, conquer the highest peak of this group Veliki Oltar and also climb Dovški križ and Šplevta. Start in Vratih and after less than 3 hours reach Bivouac at Lakes. Path to here no problems, views stunningly beautiful. From here continue towards Oltar. Numerous cairns nicely show where I must go so not to stray into harder terrain. The "path" leads me through steep and crumbly terrain to saddle Grlo and from there up steep scree into Oltar wall. Cairns safely bring me through crumbly world to the summit of this magnificent mountain. Took 5 hours to summit. Views wonderful...the first lady of this group Velika Martuljška Ponca impresses me most. Descend same way and visit Dovški križ summit. Path to DK also crumbly, climbing easier than on Oltar. Views again wonderful, even though weather worsens a bit. On descent visit Šplevta summit and past Bivouac back to valley. Screes make descent much easier...thunder already heard in distance...
Nice tour requiring mastery of I/II grade climbing, orientationally demanding - look well for cairns and very magnificent regarding views. Didn't need ice axe or crampons. Recommend. nasmeh
Start of the path1
View from the path2
Towards the bivouac3
Bivouac at Jezerih4
View from in front of the bivouac5
Sfinga - close-up6
Veliki Oltar7
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Path through scree - brown colour9
View downwards10
View11
View back12
Očak accompanied me all the time13
Bonsai - beauties of Martulka14
Mali Oltar15
Veliki Oltar from the saddle16
View from the path17
Možic18
View downwards towards the Grlo saddle, DK behind19
View from the path right below the summit20
VMP - first lady Martulka :)21
Last meters below the summit22
Rokav and Škrlatica from the summit23
Triglav and Rokav24
Oltar summit 2621 m25
View from the summit26
Towards Dovški križ27
Škrlatica 2740 m28
VMP 2602 m29
Towards DK30
Amphitheatre from DK summit31
Špik 2472 m32
Oltar from DK33
Descent from DK34
Macro shot on Šplevta35
Scree for descent36
Storm is coming37
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pinkerton21. 06. 2012 09:52:59
Beautiful tour for true connoisseurs and mountain esthetes - bravo!
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Jovan Cukut21. 06. 2012 10:20:02
Would upload some more pics from both summits. Rokavi, Škrlatica, Ponca, Amphitheatre...
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lynx21. 06. 2012 10:35:46
Just uploading slowly, views probably coming soon.
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dprapr21. 06. 2012 10:38:02
Nice things always come in small doses!
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Flora121. 06. 2012 17:33:47
Super!!! I like it a lot. I'd do this in summer.
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Irina21. 06. 2012 18:20:30
@rerze11
All thumbs up, for the contribution and photos. The one in front of the "loo" is divine. Thanks.
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ljubitelj gora24. 06. 2012 14:15:06
Me too today on these peaks, I was very early, no more snow on the path except in the gully, crumbly terrain, no problems finding the path, at the bivouac it was all clear to me where the path to Great Altar goes and where to Dovški Cross, Šplevta is not demanding, no wind, on the peaks I said to myself WOW, how beautiful nasmehFor everything together I needed half the time written.
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Triglav2
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Cmir-Triglav4
the path goes there, then left5
my goal Veliki Oltar, above is grade II6
Rokav7
Veliki Oltar8
Škrlatica9
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Dovški križ11
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Velika Martuljška Ponca, if time allows, up there too13
clouds are already forming, going down14
already on the way to Dovški križ15
Triglav kuka16
Dovški križ17
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Široka peč19
Špik kuka20
Šplevta21
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ljubitelj gora25. 06. 2012 09:35:32
...so that by chance no one takes the path to Great Altar as easy, because it's far from that, I recommend the path to Dovški Cross, even the descent to the notch is not that demanding. To the top of VO I needed 3 hours of normal walking.
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viharnik25. 06. 2012 09:46:42
In three hours one can only get there by running along the mentioned route and with almost no gear.
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urbancek25. 06. 2012 09:48:37
For how someone takes a thing, everyone is primarily responsible themselves. Anyway, congrats on the ascents! Regards!
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ljubitelj gora25. 06. 2012 22:59:49
Perfect paradise and solitude above the clouds http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8m1CpBVIIVY&feature=youtu.be
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urbancek18. 09. 2012 18:20:21
Today in this beautiful weather I did this tour. Snow is just a trace and doesn't hinder ascents anywhere. The scree for descent is anyway awesooooome!!velik nasmeh Regards!

P.S: Bojan A, did we meet at the top of Great Altar, right?zmeden I didn't know right away where to place youvelik nasmeh.As you see I then slightly changed the plan and we didn't meet anymore, you probably already "sped" down to the valley...nasmeh
Morning view.1
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Ascent...3
View back.4
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Chamois...6
Chamois at the bivouac.7
From the bivouac the view wanders up there :)8
This will be my route for today :)9
:)10
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V. Oltar.12
Panorama.13
View from the slope downwards...14
Summit.15
DK wasn't planned at first :)16
At the summit of V. Oltar.17
Škrlatica and the rest :)18
Jalovec, Mangart...19
VMP.20
V. Rokav.21
View from the summit downwards...22
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All the way to Škrlatica, Triglav in the background...24
V. Dnina.25
Dobrač.26
VMP.27
Kukova špica hooks :)28
Group at the summit...29
:)30
Bojan descending (blue dot)...31
Rokavi.32
Descent...33
Something is happening at Široka peč...34
From the top of Dovški križ.35
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Summit of Dovški križ.37
...38
Descent from DK.39
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Šplevta.41
Her summit.42
Dovški križ from Šplevta.43
In the narrow selection for the best...44
...45
...:)46
Driving shows on the shoes hehe :)47
View back after crossing the stream.48
Conclusion of a nice hike.49
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Bojan_A18. 09. 2012 18:34:37
We met at the top. You'll get the pics!

Anyway nice day, fun tour. I was exclusively on the Altar, since I was already on Dovški Cross.

REPORT: http://bojanambrozic.wordpress.com/2012/09/18/oltar/
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Urbanček4
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ljubitelj gora18. 09. 2012 18:51:34
Congrats to both mežikanje
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urbancek18. 09. 2012 19:09:51
Well, fine, next time we meet we'll say something morenasmeh.
Thanks for the company and regards again!
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ljubitelj gora22. 09. 2012 20:33:54
Great Altar today, up through Brinje, down past Bivak II, no more snow, with group all together 6.
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alyas17. 08. 2013 20:28:03
Poldov Rovt - over Brinje - Šplevta saddle - Dovški Cross and Great Altar - bivak II - over screes to Vrata valley (conditions 17.8.2013)

At the sign for approx. 10 km road in Vrata valley find the cart track to Poldov Rovt and park. Past the fairy-tale hut go up through forest paths through the forest towards the bed of Rdeči potok, but for the further ascent it's recommended to choose the right path - over Brinje (at the start red dots marked on rocks and round face carving on the tree). The path, which at the start steeply ascends through sparse forest, is unmarked but well traceable, occasionally high and overgrown grasses cause a bit of orientation trouble, then screes under Kopicami, under Šplevta we keep them more to the left.
If you're already once (and early enough) at Šplevta saddle (approx. 3 hours fast walk from the valley), it's worth visiting both nearest summits, Dovški Cross - right and Great Altar over Grlo - straight ahead, but both mountains are far from comparable neither in difficulty nor in orientation, the upper part of Great Altar also not for those afraid of heights, and even the access to Grlo saddle under Altar requires some II-degree climbing.
Conditions are of course ideal in these nice sunny days for visiting such unmarked mountains, but on these paths there's a lot of annoying scree and rocks dangerous for slipping and this year also relatively few cairns.
At/above bivak II no more snow and tarns, but a flock of sheep is grazing. To the valley you'll (recommended) of course choose the path over extensive screes under bivak and over the already mentioned bed of Rdeči potok, which unfortunately isn't so pleasant for descent due to abundance of rocks and slippery slabs.
Poldov rovt - start of the path past the fairy-tale hut.1
Path junction - to the right (red dots on rocks and mask on tree) over Brinje2
Below Šplevta saddle - upwards we look for the best passages to the left3
The approach to Dovški križ from Šplevta saddle is not very demanding, to the forepeak we head through the gully between the two prominent rocks4
Dovški križ - view and access to the summit5
View of Veliki Oltar and its characteristic brown gully, we look for the best upward passages to the left of it6
Sedelce Grlo below V. Oltar, access to it is short but relatively demanding7
Summit logbooks, ... on both summits there are boxes with summit logbooks8
Across extensive scree under bivouac II to Vrat valley9
In the lower part - unpleasant path across the dry bed of Rdeči potok10
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dolenjka&primorc18. 08. 2013 08:15:53
Goood velik nasmeh ... and nice path description cool
Congratulations.
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JusAvgustin18. 08. 2013 12:38:57
I agree, nice description even though the path is already described on the website. Just one thing to add, except the slabs right under the summit of Great Altar (which has a bypass on the right - cairns), climbing nowhere exceeds first grade, and barely that. My humble opinion, if someone disagrees let them argue it.
Plateau just below the summit1
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