Visoki rokav - Veliki oltar
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| lijaneja2. 07. 2010 19:33:50 |
On Sunday I plan to visit these two respected peaks. I wonder if anyone has been up there recently. Please post on the forum.
lp Tone
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| prahec2. 07. 2010 21:29:19 |
I was on Saturday at Škrlatica, the path there is dry, whatever snow is left is completely soft, mushy, in small patches. Those screes that are still covered with snow are also soft, so possible use of crampons is completely unnecessary. I think similarly on Veliki oltar, at least judging from the top of Škrlatica. In Kotlu Rokavov there is still snow too, in my opinion equally soft.
Aleš
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| lijaneja3. 07. 2010 19:02:54 |
Thanks to both for chiming in. For the Rokavski ozebnik it's known that helmet, ice axe and crampons are the law.
I still remember well the event on 24. 6. 2006.
lp Tone
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| dprapr29. 08. 2020 14:38:21 |
60m of rope will be enough for the ridge from High Rokav onwards.
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| redbull29. 08. 2020 18:14:15 |
40m would already be enough, you wouldn't have much from more, except fog and consequently difficult route finding because of it
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| Nejc78729. 08. 2020 20:01:23 |
Nice tour, nice pics from the morning. Next time the weather will be better. Good luck!
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| redbull30. 08. 2020 13:31:31 |
There's nothing else but to just surrender to the scree
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| janezs735. 10. 2021 16:16:46 |
Friday and Saturday were dedicated to enjoying the autumn Martuljek.
In the middle of the day we started in Vrata under Črlovec (due to road closure) and headed towards Gulcam, late afternoon arrived at Škrnatarica. From there pleasure to Dovški križ and then partly in the dark descent to Bivak II. There were already 6 people, so with my buddy we slept on the bench and floor in the bivak.
Since no one could sleep, we headed to Grlo at 3:45 - first at snail's pace because we had only one headlamp, then also because every 5 minutes we admired the changing colors before sunrise. Really unique.  On the top of the Altar we were of course before sunrise, staring at it during breakfast.
Then via the south ridges continued towards the notch between Altar and V.Rokav. Cairns so frequent that you can't get lost here even if you wanted to.
Crossing further into the north walls of Rokav is obvious. Continuation trickier. First took the same gully as D+D+D (above posts). At its top spotted huge cairn lower in the neighboring gully so changed our mind. Descended back down (peg left), traversed to next gully (not sure about ideal line  ) reached known plateau (with old peg). From there along the ridge to the top of V.Rokav. Since Rokav has no competition in "hill crumbling" around visitors, descended to the bottom of Rokav glacier on rope. Already everything rattling around us.
Plan was continuation to Škrlatica but weather didn't cooperate. Due to fog instead of right to V cauldron and Škrlatica turned left into glacier to Jezera then "elevator" to Vrata.
Beauties here of special caliber. Height, colors, countless towers where everything shoots skywards... But scree surprises every time. When I think nothing surprises me anymore, it kills me again. 
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| dprapr5. 10. 2021 17:32:53 |
Interesting that everyone abseils on this ridge. Passages from the notch onwards on the north side without abseil. Back to the ridge via this variant behind your 11th pic.
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| janezs735. 10. 2021 18:22:10 |
Drago, does that mean you avoid that slab (with peg) already before? Or go over the plateau up and then slowly descend to that notch?
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| dprapr5. 10. 2021 19:31:50 |
No need to go on the ridge at all, go under the plateau to the easier passage (from that slab) and there, behind your abseil, to the ridge.
Oops, now the strict ridge followers will “attack” me, for whom going under the ridge is blasphemy.
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| dprapr5. 10. 2021 19:40:55 |
Juš, in old age we know all the easier variants.
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| redbull5. 10. 2021 21:50:13 |
Drago, in the counter direction it's still not so easy down there on that easier variant, right?
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| dprapr5. 10. 2021 22:39:30 |
Downwards it would be harder, due to the crumbly passage from the end of the “chimney” down and right. Although to me that passage to the ridge doesn't act like a chimney. More like a short gully and jump next to it.
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| redbull6. 10. 2021 06:32:13 |
That little man is really visible from afar, from him onwards at least when looking from the ridge top down there's no good "troddenness". Maybe only I saw it that way. Will really need to check from below closer. On the ridge there are really parts quite narrow. From VR along the ridge to the end almost to the notch I'd say maybe hardest there around. At the end probably have to abseil, now also 7mm rope on the left side (last time we left it, 30m was "just enough").
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| janezs731. 08. 2024 22:34:13 |
This time Martuljek in all its glory:
On Monday after rain first from Črlovec towards Gulce, through grasses, junipers and heather full of water (too much for my shoes  ), then through Škrnataričin gully to the top (why those ugly screes, when left of the head there are such nice "kahlice").
Then of course the ridge towards Dovški križ, as far as I had to chase the chamois over all passages, who would rather sit on every ledge and munch his grass. When I already thought he was lost, he waits for me again at the passage from Jugova grapa towards the lower meadows above Šplevta.
To the "double" I just can't get enough of the views of the magnificent north Triglav wall. In the mists it was even more photogenic.
On Tuesday morning already at four I gently wake three Dolenjska lads and enjoy the sunrise a bit below the summit of Oltar. The gully above Grlo is eroded right to the rocks - another 10 years and we'll need a Nepalese bridge over it .
Then the real Martuljek begins - traversing the south slopes of Oltar towards the saddle between it and V.Rokav - this time it seemed to me a shade harder than ever before and even harder than further towards the summit of Rokav. How subjective sensations are, right?
On the 3rd approach this time without problems I find the upper Dragotov (and additional Jušev) hint for the gully that bypasses the penultimate tower in the ridge. The gully under that notch is really the nicest part of the traverse, compact, pure delight.
On Rokav after good 4h from the "double" worth photographing and enjoying the morning views.
Follows descent to Rokavska škrbina and to the end in Kotel. The time was barely 8:30, so plenty of time for rappels with rope (I know specialists don't need it, but if the rope is in the backpack, let it serve its purpose). In between I greet Tone (I only realized that now ). Hats off. Like a chamois he flew up past me to V.Rokav.
In Kotel for a whole hour I melt snow to get extra two liters of water and treat myself to rehydration soup.
Towards Škrlatičina rama it went without complications, despite occasional fog and the fact that I was walking this for the first time.
The last 200m just wouldn't go anymore, I stopped myself. Perhaps there was no real desire anymore, perhaps I simply didn't want to leave the kingdom of the Rokavs. Anyway, after Škrlatica I abandoned the original plans to continue to Kriški podi, and instead descended to Vrata. Surely the too strong sun also contributed to that, which left a mark on my face 
Tour for gods or into their lap. As you take it.
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| dprapr2. 08. 2024 10:28:42 |
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