Visoki rokav - Veliki oltar
|
| lijaneja2. 08. 2024 15:53:00 |
On the 19 you caught my drying clothes on the rock.
| (+1) |  | |
|
|
|
|
| LISAC2. 08. 2024 17:26:30 |
janezs73, congratulations!
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| janezs734. 08. 2024 07:19:21 |
This was really for the soul.
Drago, really thanks for the tip for the last gully before the Rokav summit! Elegant!
Tone, next to your stop I was melting snow! 
| (+2) | | |
|
|
|
|
| lijaneja4. 08. 2024 21:11:09 |
Yes, interesting that the snow was still nice, white. For such trips I take a dedicated 1.5l Fruca bottle, because it has a wide neck so I can scrape snow into it more easily.
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| janezs735. 08. 2024 12:46:32 |
Well, actually it wasn't that white - I expected it to be cleaner under the surface. I first cleaned 5 cm of the surface (dirty from various sands), and it was also dirty deeper down here and there. Then I cut out blocks 10x5x5 cm with the ice axe so I could melt them with the stove.
Nothing to do about it, thirst is a nasty thing!
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| lijaneja5. 08. 2024 21:00:13 |
Understandable, you had a two-day trip and also greater need, no alpine hut here. I just needed to top up the bottle, two minutes' work, snow had already fully melted into liquid by the bivouac. Pity you didn't go to check the cirque outlet, the snow patch would have started trickling in a moment.
Snow was dirty in layers, as we got several shipments of desert sand.
|
|
|
|
| janezs7316. 08. 2026 13:03:51 |
On Thursday and Friday a day for a nice Martuljski venec above Krnica. Afternoon on route 1 into Dnina, behind me two young men (who the next day dashed into the wall of Rakova špica). In the morning to the end of the scree and for the first time from this side to Oltar - direction logical, of course in the middle an obvious signpost in the form of a hanging rope helps! From Oltar by already known passages to V.Rokav, then controlled descent to Rokavska škrbina (safe by rope, although I know it goes without - but such a long tour has its own rules for me) and further over the overhang to the scree in Kotlu. From here logically to Škrlatičina rama (and this time without summit) down to Zg.Dolek and back up to Rdeča škrbina, then around under D.Gamsovec and Gubni to the start of descent over Križka stena. This last act is personally the hardest for me, perhaps also due to heavy memories. But honestly I don't understand how such a path is categorized as a secured path or how people with less experience can safely descend this path. After all this is the only official descent north between Vrtaško Sleme and Prisojnik. In Krnica just before dark and then by bike to KG.
Martuljek divine, for the soul, the rest according to SLO standards. I'm not sure the rest is easier than the central part of this tour.
Sun beating down like crazy, the only (miniature) remnant of snowfield (from which there would be some water) is currently still in the upper kot of V.Dnina. In Kotlu no more snow anywhere, further to Križ also none, except in one super deep hole right before the intersection for B4 (but cannot descend to the snow without complicated maneuvers).
 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
| (+10) | | |
|
|
|
|
| vitan16. 08. 2026 15:47:39 |
Janez, first of all congratulations for such a tour.
This passage from Oltar to V. Rokav, I would also like to do it myself sometime, but first I have to study where it actually goes.
As for Kriška stena, I completely agree. I also did the descent on it for the first time about 3 years ago and it completely psyched me out. I wouldn't repeat it gladly.
Lp
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| janezs7316. 08. 2026 16:46:47 |
Vitan, thanks for the congratulations!
The crossing from O to VR was already my fourth, the first time I was discovering the first 2/3 on my own, the second time my colleague and I got stuck another 2x in the continuation but reached VR, the third time I was looking for different variants on my own (of course I had previously searched half the web, here on this portal I got a couple of extremely valuable tips), this time it went quite smoothly.
Of everything, the most important are intuition, which you build over the years, and observing the terrain configuration on site. Of course, not all obviously easy crossings are also those that, looking at the traverse as a whole, get you to VR the easiest or fastest.
In this section there are also quite a few useful cairns, in recent years also quite a few new bolts every 30m (I assume the guides drilled them), which also tell you that you are on the right path. The same bolts are also at the anchors for descents. The cairns are mostly on exposed ridges and are clearly visible, in between there are gullies and ravines over various debris where you have to find your way.
I hope though that someone else thinks that something should be done about Kriška stena. If they already don't want or can't secure the route properly, at least reclassify the route or explicitly write what awaits you there (in both directions).
| (+2) | | |
|
|
|
|
| vitan16. 08. 2026 19:18:10 |
Thanks for the answer and advice.
Someday... it will be my turn too. If you attempt the crossing for the fifth time, I will gladly join
|
|
|
|
| n3jc16. 08. 2026 19:21:14 |
Maybe it helps if you write this about Kriška stena in both directions in the topic dedicated to it. Maybe someone finds it or there is a greater chance that modern search engines ("artificial intelligence") with which tourists help themselves will find it.
|
|
|
|
| janezs7318. 08. 2026 14:49:59 |
N3jc - thanks for the recommendation. I really did post a comment under the trips Ruski križ - Križ. If anyone else sees where it's still worth putting such a comment, I'd be grateful. I hope this deters someone not experienced enough from the descent/ascent idea.
|
|
|
You must log in to post a comment:
If you do not yet have a username, you must first
register.