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jlapanja / Recent messages

jlapanja - Recent messages

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jlapanja18. 11. 2016 18:26:22
The mentioned peg might really be yours, we didn't bother to knock it out, for the other two I admit I already forgot-
Best J.
jlapanja18. 11. 2016 16:56:56
Since there was less time in summer to browse the forum, this time I'll describe another ascent, although it's already four months since the trip to TURN UNDER RAZOR.
With my colleague we've already covered practically almost all two-thousanders, some harder ones remained for us and among them was the mentioned TURN.
From stories of some mountaineers and some photos we finally got info where this spire is. It really has a wild appearance, interesting for two-thousander collectors but few climb it.
Considering we maintain fitness constantly we believed we can do it.With help of a more experienced climber-alpinist, we decided to pull it off.
When we got help from an experienced 60-year-old, on July 12, 2016 we set off from Vršič along the path to Razor to the saddle of Mlinarice.Before the branch to Razor we turned left on pathless scree towards TURN. That scree is known mainly to ski tourers where in good winter conditions you can ski to the road hut on Vršič road.
After less than 3 hours we reached the notch of TURN, bypassed it and looked to the Kranjska side (east side).That was also the starting point to prepare for the first pitch, about 30m high. Difficulty started with II then over chimney harder from III to IV to first belay.After short rest and prep for second pitch (again 30m) we continued climbing, which was significantly harder. Here the wall of TURN goes vertical, climbing difficulty doesn't let up and stays evenly at IV. In both pitches we managed to find only one old peg and one auxiliary sling at belay from predecessors, who couldn't have been many.
On happy descent (two rope rappels) our eyes lit up and our helper was also happy with the ascent, as he was also first time on TURN UNDER RAZOR.

LET ME SAY AT THE END THAT WE CLIMBED TURN THREE RETIREES AGED 69, 67 AND 60 YEARS, (TOTAL 196 YEARS) SO SUCCESS IS EVEN GREATER AND PROOF THAT EVEN AT THIS AGE YOU CAN OVERCOME A LOT, IF WILL, PHYSICAL FITNESS AND OF COURSE HEALTH WHICH IS PREREQUISITE AND MOUNTAINEERS WANT THAT MOST, AS WE NEVER GET ENOUGH OF LOOKING AT OUR MOST BEAUTIFUL PEAKS.
Although fog hindered us on ascent to TURN, I'll send some pics later, which won't be the best due to bad conditions in nature. Best regards Jure.
jlapanja17. 11. 2016 15:01:11
Yes, you kinda wonder if it's really possible that you've climbed all the peaks you see around you. When I sometimes have younger folks around I show and tell them something. Some are very interested and I've noticed conquering two-thousanders in Slovenia has increased a lot. Those look and listen very enthusiastically but to some it's not clear at all. I tell them it's the only thing they can't forbid us yet in our oasis of peace. Once you're hooked you can't go back! Regards.
jlapanja17. 11. 2016 09:37:12
I had long postponed the hike to Macesnovec, although not a two-thousander, this year I finally decided to visit it right when it's most beautiful with its larches. From Kot with my daughter we started on the marked path to Stanič hut. After less than an hour of walking about 50m from the stream (keep clean) we turned left to pathless terrain and enjoyed photographing for another 3 hours in nice weather. After almost one hour of enjoyment on top we reluctantly decided for descent to the valley.
jlapanja16. 11. 2016 20:56:17
On 12.10.2016 I headed to V. Pršivec from Krma. At 1300 m already some new snow awaited, gaining few cm with altitude. Weather wonderful but cold as sunny sides all frozen but no obstacle for good walk to mentioned mountain. Markings some still visible except where snow drifted. Bit harder path through Kravja valley and then to summit where cairns almost all snowed over.
         
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