franc.rozman@adventure.si - Recent messages

Hello.
Thanks for the exciting description. I don't know if anyone still reads this, as it's been a while since posting. This year I went past there 8.2022, to Mala Ponca. But the rock on M. Oltar looks extremely inviting. I'm interested if there are enough pegs in the route or what blacksmith gear to take? Which spot requires the most attention on ascent and descent?
I searched for descriptions but was unsuccessful.
Thanks for the reply.
best, Franc

Yesterday, 13.6.2018, I went to Planjava via Repov kot in the afternoon. No problems with avalanche terrain or snow going up. Rock was dry, plenty of cairns too. Viewed from Planjava summit, the first two avalanche fields can be nicely bypassed above or below. More annoying is crossing the snowfield lower, below Sukavnik, towards the west wall. Snow was wet /started raining/ but you can nicely assist with ice axe. One of the last fixed ropes is slightly damaged, rest is fine. Recommend good footwear. Hut at saddle open from 10.6.2018 on. Good luck

Hi,
I was also looking for info on the condition of the path Through Plemenice and there was no other way than to check it myself this Saturday, 2.7.2016.
From Luknja onwards all the way to Plemenice you don't encounter snow that you must step on. Of course it's still in some shady narrow spots, but it's melted to such an extent that you can avoid it in the gullies with easy retreating scrambling. The cables and pegs in this section are holding, only at two-three less critical spots the pegs are pulled out or the cable is torn. Higher up, before you reach the ridge and above Sfinga the path is in exemplary condition. But shortly after that starts a more or less continuous snowfield all the way to the junction with the path from Dolič. Orientation even in fog shouldn't be a problem, as the cairns are visible and above the snow cover, and you can also pick up the marks. Plus the tracks of predecessors in the snow are well visible. The entry into the wall below Triglav notch and the traverse are not problematic. I encountered snow about 50m before the exit to the notch. With ice axe it went quick and straight, time in that section was around 09, so snow was still quite firm. Probably most go in the gully by the wall, as less stones fly there, which they send from above. Above the notch, where the path turns left, you encounter snow again. But you can bypass it on the left side and reach old marks and even pegs, which quickly join the normal path. And now you don't encounter any snow anymore, all the way to the top (except behind the summit tower, in your case before the tower) and same on descent to Kredarica. Only on the saddle before ascent to Dom na Kredarici there's some for sample. There a quite wide track in the snow leads more or less all the way to Prag. There you really don't encounter snow anymore.
Hope I was detailed and vivid enough. Anyway, seven of us "cable and rock required" gathered randomly in Luknja. Maybe someone else will write something. I don't believe anyone was climbing those parts on Sunday 3.7.2016 as it cooled down and rained all day. So these are probably the last info on the condition of that path.
Of course recommend best footwear.
For sure Igor and Redbull can provide you with the most reliable info from that area.

Yesterday /28.8.2014/ from Nevejesko sedlo via Planina Krni dol to Rifugio Corsi at Mojzesova škrbina /new cables/ and to Viš. Descent /path no.: 1234 page 374, Julian Alps Mountaineering Guide 1998 by Mihelič/. Since we were three, we split on descent from Rifugio Corsi. One went back to start, second via path 625 and then left on 628 /at Kapne stene/ to Viška planina, third via path that also leads to Viška planina but runs almost under cargo cableway. All three paths well secured and nice to hike.
We had fog up to cca 2000m. So we had to use maps often. We hit snow on flat a little above Rifugio Corsi but it is gentle and unproblematic to cross. Maybe not best to walk its edge as it is undermined. It stretches high towards Škrbina Zadnje špranje. On summit path lots of scree so caution advised. At summit view from clear to foggy sea. Nice tour. Detail. On macadam road from Nevejesko sedlo to Planina Krni dol they concreted steep sections so it was closed and had to bypass through forest in places.