vinko - Recent messages

Giant rock tower that runs parallel to the main ridge of Košuta north of Užnik.
Access!
Through the Ljubelj border crossing in Borovlje we turn towards Sele, a little before the village the path branches off to Koschutahaus(1280m), no more toll collection, maybe only in season. We park in front of the hut and after a short chat with the hut keeper who was friendly and speaks Slovenian well... we headed to Cjajnik anticipating what awaits us in this famous ferrata that the Austrians newly built last year.
Less than an hour walk on scree, then between scree slopes. Start and continuation mostly through exposed areas. I mention that the ferrata is quite forced in some places because it avoids natural passages to increase adrenaline value.
Below the summit, cross Cjajnik rib where you can choose easier variant that turns right around the edge to the side summit, or directly vertically to the pillar which requires lots of arm strength and is very strenuous (rated C/D)III+ difficulty. Austrians have their scale A to E.
Must mention it's alongside (Via italiani-Mangart, and Via Amalije-Vevnica, maybe even harder). Climbing shoes useful in places because smooth rock and if wet shoe slips a bit.
Without harness and poor fitness don't go up. Tense, adrenaline etc. Descent same way. L.P Vinko&Nena

We started the trail from Kot valley. High humidity in the air, fog up to 1800 m, path very slippery, higher up sunshine. The path went via climbing route, over Pekel to the top, wonderful our mountains. Wonderful view. Škrlatica and Triglav were occasionally in the fog in the afternoon. We returned by the same path to the valley. Left on Sunday before lunch and returned for dinner. Best regards V&N.

Last year I almost stepped on one when I went up to Koš.Turn, I saw a few too, although they are quite rare in Slovenia.
Careful. Regards

You chose a smart option, because from Belopeška lakes it really drags to the top. As much info as I have, which is a week old, they haven't fixed anything yet. Tricky is more at the start, there where the wall breaks there's a pulled piton, but it can be climbed slowly.

You'll have to wait a bit until nice weather. But I advise you to drive to the saddle by car and descend via normale to bivouac Nogara (ca 1h) and up ferrata to saddle (1.30h) then to summit via Slovenian. Best.

Belopeška Lakes bivouac Nogara and via north ferrata to saddle, then along Slovenian path to Mangart summit. The wall is an adrenaline rush, at some places pegs holding the wire rope are pulled out, so quite some skill is needed to continue... harness and helmet mandatory. On Saturday there was quite some crowd.
Back over saddle and via Italian normale to Belopeška lakes. Total 8h walk.
But Vevnica in my opinion is more adrenaline-packed. Best. V&N.

I don't know where you'll start? Tamar or Belopeška jezera? I recommend Belopeška jezera up the ferrata to Visoka Ponca, down to the middle Ponca and to Vevnica... if you're well prepared to descend via Via della Vita (self-belay set mandatory) or to descend to Koritnica there someone has to wait for you with a car. You can also sleep in Bivak Traviso and the next day to Mangart. The path is long, but it can be done in one day.

Thanks for the encouragement!!

Pipan is an Italian mountaineer who is the author of these ladders, there are more, I didn't remember the names but under the ladder there is his plaque in the rock. On Montaz it's between 60 and 80 meters long, on Vevnica good 15 meters, salamanders appear most after rain. L.P

Yes, let me also write a bit about this beautiful mountain in western Julians.
We started from Pecol plateau, after an hour walk junction, right on normal path, then right past Disteis tower further on exposed ledge to bivouac Suringar (exceptional view on Clapadorie gorge) where ten minutes before bivouac path branches right (Findenegg gully). Path more climbing, without cables and pegs to top.
(Rok probably didn't know) and down Pipan ladder. Weather great, view wonderful... marmots and chamois huge amount.
Via Amalia still awaits us. Nice greeting all on this portal. Vinko²&Nena.

Of course one gets it, and they have good strudel.