KrEnD - Recent messages

This year I was on the ridge when I connected Rinke, Skuta and Dolgi hrbet (from the Jezersko side). From the Skuta side soon after the junction there is one slightly overhanging spot (well equipped), but it is not exposed (after about 10 vertical meters of climbing down we reach a notch). Then follows very nice climbing up and down and up and down ... all the way to the top. Descent from the top is initially very comfortable, then follows a well-equipped jump, which is very exposed, the abyss below is really deep. For me this part is mentally the "hardest". After the jump there is still some mostly unprotected climbing down to Mlinarsko sedlo.

The path from Nogara bivouac to the junction with the path leading from Mangart Saddle towards Mangart is an ascent across meadow and scree. There is no particularly demanding spot on the path, only a few cables below Nogara bivouac, but nothing special. If you ascend to the top of Mangart, then the "harder" parts on the Slovenian or Italian path will follow.

I don't know why you would want to avoid Via Italiana (ferrata). It is a sporty via ferrata equipped with cables from entry to exit (except in the middle on the grassy part I think there aren't any, but I really don't remember , in any case they are not needed there ). It allows enjoyable climbing with beautiful views, while you can be clipped to the cable throughout the rocky section. Towards the top the via ferrata is quite exposed, but not difficult in terms of technical difficulty (this is of course a subjective assessment). If you already have experience with via ferratas, then I recommend the ascent via this one. Of course assess your own abilities!

Descent via Plazje on dry ground I do not recommend (scree ...).

I also attach a photo of Mangart into which I have entered the approximate (!) route of the path. The position of the bivouac is marked with a blue X (this is accurate). With a red line I marked the usual path, with pink the approximate course of the via ferrata: the entry into the wall is marked correctly, but for the upper part I do not guarantee that I made a completely accurate drawing, certainly the exit is somewhat left of the lowest point of the ridge). I also drew the transverse path that is used if going to the via ferrata from Mangart Saddle (in this case it is not necessary to descend all the way to the bivouac).

(Mangart is photographed from the slopes of Ponce)

The ridge from Vevnica to Ponca I crossed for the first time three years ago, last time two years ago. Two years ago new cables were installed on the ridge at the most critical points. I was most pleased with the new cables on the grassy slope at the transition into the notch between Zadnja and Srednja Ponca. The protections on the descent from Vevnica into the first notch were still "old" even two years ago. Despite the "wobbliness" they enabled a safe passage.
(it seemed worth writing a comment to me, because the possibility of "descent" via Zadnja Ponca is also mentioned - in reality this is a very long ridge traverse and by no means just a descent )

O, super topic, or rather tour. Thank you very much for all the descriptions and also for the drawn ridge that leads from Kotovo sedlo under Vevnica. It is also reassuring to see that the anchors for descents on the tour are set up. But I would like to ask two things:

- how long a rope is needed on the tour? 60 m or can it be less?
- from which book/guide are the photos pasted?

My opinion is that a well-trained mountaineer does not need SVK on Škrlatica. Or differently - whoever would really need it for a confident feeling on the places with steel cable, it will be psychologically very strenuous for him to climb the rest of the unprotected part of the climbing section of the path. But this is only my opinion, I am not convincing anyone not to use SVK. As Mr. Trobec says, the use of SVK is a matter of experience and judgment of each individual.
(for reference: I have never used SVK on Škrlatica myself, nor on the path from Kredarica to Triglav, but I always use it for example during descent through Zadnje okno on the Jubilejna pot on Prisojnik or for example during ascent via della viti on Vevnica or over Pipanova lestev on Montaža).
But I think that for the first time it is better to have a harness and SVK with you, even if you don't use it. "Better safe than sorry " - Some time ago I went for example for the first time via Kopinškova on Ojstrica and based on photos on hribi.net I judged that I might need SVK. The path then turned out to be significantly easier than expected and SVK and harness remained in the backpack.

Very nice photos . The daughters are also very fit and real mountain goats (meant positively ). All congratulations! Repeaters should be warned that the ascent via Findenegga is a serious mountaineering feat and that previous experience is definitely needed. I think the hardest part is getting to Findeneg's gully, as some ledges above Clapadorio (the gorge deep down there where the final "air") are very narrow and the feeling is really extremely airy. I myself think that for the descent on the "normal route" SVK is needed, without it it can be mentally taxing, I mean especially the section of steel cables that lead to Pipan.

I was up there myself a week ago. I went from Jezersko past the hut on Ledine. The path to the top seemed very beautiful to me, a real mountaineering treat. I also visited Kranjska Rinka, then descended onto the marked path leading towards Skuta. Below Kranjska Rinka a right unmarked path pulled me off the marked path, starting across the scree, but I advise against it on the way down as it soon "runs out", then you need to find passages across slabs and go across some kind of "shelves" and then descend to the marked path. (When the path "ran out", I didn't want to continue transversely at the same height so I wouldn't get stuck somewhere. Does anyone know where the path leads?) Then I went on the marked path to Skuta (along the path of sticks, hehe) and then over Dolgi hrbet to Mlinarsko sedlo. Then followed, at least for me, the hardest part of the tour - descent from Mlinarsko sedlo to Češka koča. There is little protection on this path, on descent you constantly need to watch for possible slips. Concentration is needed all the way to the contact with the scree. Then past Češka koča into the valley.