Stumby - Recent messages

Does anyone have info on the conditions in Jugova gully? Has anyone skied it this year? Planning to ski Jugovo at the end of the coming week, curious about conditions. How far can one ski up? Regards, nejc

does anyone have current information, what's the condition like in Teranova route? usually it's one of the first done, but I haven't seen yet that anything has been climbed there this season...?

that's right, the wall was dry...only in the exit gully there was still snow, which doesn't pose a bigger problem, especially if you have an ice axe with you...

me too tomorrow... for the gully it's clear to me that it's in snow, and I need an ice axe for down, but since we're climbing, the wall interests me more, if it's more or less dry

but who has current data if the wall is already dry and how dry... Igličeva planned for Friday...

Does anyone know what the condition is in the wall of Mala Rinke from Okrešelj... is it dry?

does anyone have current info on conditions in Hudičev žleb??? I assume there are rocky steps with the poor amount of snow this year, just curious how long and what difficulties...best

What are the conditions for ascent from Vrata, over Sovatna to Stenar, is it safe to go there in winter time although now there is little snow, what about the path over Stenarska vratca (I know this is winter), if weather holds I think for weekend go up?

about a month ago I was there (Stenar over Stenarska vratca), and since no mentionable precipitation since then, assume situation similar, but following: in Stenarska vratca at start one cca 80° ice-rock jump (4-5m), couldn't bypass then (ledge on right side)...so recommend two ice axes, otherwise possible with one trekking, as we did, but don't recommend... but nice to climb and good spice...from that jump to top of notch snow frozen, goes fine...from notch to summit we blasted south side on pronounced steep gully, which was quite windblown and sinking deep (south side + inversion), so now assume quite frozen. Returned same way, past Bivak IV to Vrata...but on way back in notch we 'snowmobiled that ledge', so avoided rock jump (possible now up there too)...otherwise nice mountaineering winter tour, and quite long...(recommend sleep in Bivak IV), and next day first to Križ, then over Stenarska vratca to Stenar, as we did...good luck!

Nice, Iglu lowered prices, when I bought Extreme a month ago, thought I made a good deal with 20% off regular price ... now see could have got it 30 eur cheaper, but fuck it, no time to wait ... they have pig margins on shoes and clothes as I see, way higher than on ice axes and crampons ... @jedriličar: impregnation stuff supposedly water based, so oils and creams out... box says LaSportiva recommends Nikwax products...

I think you won't go wrong with Nepal Extreme either. I got mine recently and already tested them on a two-day winter tour and climbing (drytooling) and they perform excellently everywhere so far. Haven't had cold feet in them yet, though it's true I haven't used them at extra low temps.

Today I tried the three (Alpina Teton, LS Extreme and EVO)... Alpina somehow didn't fit me, and they are heavy as f***, both Evo GTX and Extreme felt super on the foot at first impression, only the sizes are smaller, so I had to order 46 (normally I have foot 45)... Evo GTX seemed somehow narrower, and less "broken in", so given that I walk a lot too, I'll most likely take Extreme, and save 50 € ... regarding Batura they are almost 100 € more expensive, that's way too much for a student budget ...
@joža: I don't know why anyone would show off with brands... I too had summer Planika gojzari, with which I did around 100 various tours on scree, off paths and via ferratas and they were great, but that's junk you can't compare to winter mountaineering boots... it's like comparing a regular personal car to a snowcat

does anyone have experiences with la sportiva nepal extreme boots, and nepal evo gtx, and what are the essential differences between them...i'm in the buying phase, haven't tried any on my foot yet, generally interested...also interested in comparison of these two with alpina teton, given they are much cheaper, question if they are comparable in quality (supposedly much heavier- how much?)...i plan to use the boots for all forms of winter alpinism and mountaineering (ice climbing, mixed, gullies, approaches)...Lp

I'm right away for it... this year probably no more, got some other plans, next year easily

really nice and enjoyable route, climbing all the way, still no fucked details... we climbed one week after you, with that we exited it via Zimmer-Jahn . definitely will repeat this route sometime, next time probably with continuation on the long German...

Don't know why everyone rushes into that crumbly gully... the variant right of it is nice and surprisingly solid chimney, maybe II-III, which Mihelič describes in Northern Approaches guide. True, no prusiks or pegs inside... but descent possible too as rock really compact for this world... since had rope just in case, rappelled comfortably down that crumbly gully where prusiks every 3m really