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Mont Blanc / Monte Bianco

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Am Shagar24. 08. 2015 09:44:48
Helmet off.cool
(+3)like
Leone24. 08. 2015 09:46:52
@Trobec, she wrote under the photo when on top: "on the highest peak of Western Europe, or the highest peak of the EU"

Congratulations...
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alpin24. 08. 2015 11:43:04
Congratulations Mukica.!!
Lots of things have to "come together" to reach the top, right?!nasmeh
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Trobec24. 08. 2015 13:19:01
@Leone, sometimes it's good to read more comments, not just stick to one right away and reply nasmeh
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mukica24. 08. 2015 14:04:10
Thanks everyone, really nice feeling to stand on the top and have luck that everything comes together...it did for us and wish the same to others planning the mountain nasmehnasmehnasmeh
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Leone25. 08. 2015 09:07:43
Mr. Trobec, I apologize!
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rodica10. 09. 2015 18:32:29
Anyone for Mont Blanc from 22.-30.9.2015? 3 days/ cost approx 750 Eur.
Two spots still free.
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rodica11. 09. 2015 18:46:05
Anyone for Mont Blanc in the period 22.-30.9.2015? Need two more participants for departure. 3 days, price just over 700 EUR. Professional guiding.
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rodica13. 09. 2015 12:20:48
My friend and I want to go to Mont Blanc this autumn. We are both well trained. A verified agency offers the service with 4 clients. It lasts 3 days with transport, in good weather during the period 22.-30.9.2015. One guide leads 2 persons. Would anyone join? Price per person for the complete service 750 Eur
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UROS111. 07. 2016 21:40:07
BRAVO and congratulations to ALL !!!velik nasmeh
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viharnik11. 07. 2016 22:52:57
You guys are good, congratulations! I haven't been up there yetvelik nasmeh
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mukica12. 07. 2016 08:26:25
Congratulations to all participants nasmehnasmehnasmeh I'm reliving our ascent from last year and experiences, in the hut and valley especially the path to the top in dream conditions (just a day before they opened the hut which was closed for two weeks due to avalanche,)....unforgettable tour nasmeh
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bagi12. 07. 2016 12:08:15
Some of my experiences from the mentioned ascent on Mont Blanc in the company of *Voluharjev* ...

I had already been quite a bit higher than the roof of the EU before, but always with gradual acclimatization. This time, for the first time, I climbed so high in such a short time. In one single day we ascended from Ljubljana's 300 m to the Gouter hut at 3835 m height.

So much height in one day does its thing. Despite solid fitness I rarely felt so drained as this time jezen. And not only me, the whole team barely dragged itself to the hut. Ours and many others who came after us. In the evening it was already a great feat to climb from the dining room to the bedrooms on the second floor velik nasmeh. Some had headaches, others nausea, and others had trouble breathing. Quietly, no one fully believed that we would manage the ascent to the mountain the next day.

But it went … slowly, with some Lekadols and lots of fluids. Step by step roped together. There practically all climbers are roped, most have local guides. We trusted Tomaž with the organization and execution and everything went in the best order nasmeh. Towards the summit fog caught us and hid the precipitous slopes of the ridges we walked on. Perhaps it was even better that way.

Lack of oxygen slowed reaction times, thinking was slow. Diffuse light cast deceptive shadows. Stops were increasingly frequent, the summit always more distant. At least in our heads. We had to cross a serac which apparently wasn't there not long ago. MB is full of changes. It is an area of eternal snow and ice that slides and constantly changes. Full of crevasses that hide with every snowfall. So never walk off the trodden paths.

And finally the summit. Foggy, with an unpleasant icy wind. We wear ski goggles, water in bladders freezes, gear fails. Here completely different conditions rule than at our heights. No excessive enthusiasm in our rope team over the achievement, we quickly regroup.

And once again … step by step descending. Slowly and carefully. When someone has trouble the rope team stops immediately. Rushing here punishes mercilessly. Over 6000 fatalities already counts Mont Blanc. Height, weather conditions, inexperience, carelessness. More would be found. A bit of luck is always needed, regardless of all you know and can do.

We succeeded, both rope teams nasmeh. Still rest in Gouter hut and descent in rain and thunder to the lower hut Tette Rousse where we overnight. It is a friendly hut, complete opposite of Gouter. Only here we slowly realize what we achieved. Happy about it and proud of ourselves velik nasmeh.

Mont Blanc is something special. Combination of height, glacier, weather conditions and walking on the edge far exceeds usual winter ascents in our areas ala Grintovec, which is often compared. Number of those for whom it was the last path inexorably confirms this.

Therefore …. don't take Mont Blanc too much for granted, but go up there if you feel capable enough.

Good luck to all who will head for it nasmeh

Ascent route via Gouter hut.1
The cog railway takes you a few hundred meters higher than the gondola.2
The ascent begins from the upper station of the cog railway.3
The terrain is rocky, the rocks are of volcanic origin, far from the beauty of our Alps.4
We cross the first snowfields, crampons are not yet needed due to soft snow.5
There is more and more snow.6
Up there are already areas of eternal snow and ice. Full of séracs.7
We climb up the unfriendly ridge, but on a nice path.8
With every step we gain height.9
The first day had wonderful weather.10
Here, a little below the teto Rozko, we put on crampons and replace poles with ice axes.11
Stepped path and soft snow.12
Tent site in front of teto Rozko13
To the right, towards the top of the ridge, the Gouter hut is visible, the goal of the first day14
We are panting up the slope15
The most delicate spot of today's ascent ... crossing the couloir. Rolling stones are commonplace here16
We slowly gain height, but quickly lose strength17
Old hut no longer in use. It stands on the edge of a cliff and there is no overnight accommodation in it18
With our last strength we drag ourselves along the ridge towards the Gouter hut19
Even on the level ground it no longer goes easily20
Gouter hut at 3835 m21
Wonderful Gouter hut. Unfortunately the staff and offerings are below par, prices top-notch22
Veeeeery tired team .... :)23
This is how mountaineers prepare for the mountain ascent at two in the morning24
Some of ours25
In the valley it is still pitch black26
It is cold, the wind bites. Ski goggles serve well despite the darkness27
Ascent in the glow of headlamps28
First hints of a new day on the horizon29
A little below us is our second team30
A new day is dawning31
Step-kicking across eternal snow and ice32
Mont Blanc in the morning glow33
The morning is magnificent34
Our rope team on a short break. These became more and more frequent35
The weather changed very quickly36
Fog has already caught us at the bivouac37
Step by step. Slowly, it can't go faster38
Serac with a fixed rope across it39
Considerable strength is required at these heights to climb an apparently easy passage40
At the summit41
Group at the top ... Marjan, Jana, Mateja and Emil42
On the return it cleared up43
View to the peaks around us44
We return towards the old hut45
Top left is the Goûter hut46
Descent along the ridge to the lower hut47
The weather is quite changeable this time48
Teta Rozka. Arrival in rain and thunder49
Tête Rousse hut .... teta Rozka50
Wake-up at four o'clock in the morning and dawn of a new day51
After a plentiful breakfast we leave the hut and begin descending to the valley52
First morning sun53
We are already in the dry part of the ridge54
View into the valley55
To the right is the cog railway track56
Cog railway57
Still a hop to the nearby two-thousander58
From white to green59
Here is the upper gondola station and intermediate cog railway station60
Only the descent into the valley left61
Chamonix62
Our equipment63
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dprapr12. 07. 2016 15:07:32
Winter Grintovec from the valley and back in cca 8 hours of daylight... But to Mont Blanc in suitable summer weather is easier in a day and a half.

True though, some have quite significant problems with altitude and that's the main problem. First day approach slowly and drink a lot.
Definitely nice tour on "high" level. Congrats!
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turbo12. 07. 2016 15:18:20
Nice nice nice please velik nasmeh

We are in Europe, the mountain is somewhere on the border between Italy and France and is officially called Monte Bianco or Mont Blanc.

Don't know how it's possible that already for the eighth year the title says "Mount" jezen, when on every map and every guidebook it's clearly written zmeden
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lino12. 07. 2016 16:06:55
Bagi, you really spoil us with excellent descriptions and photos of your paths and ascents:
- Mont Blanc in company of *Voluharjev*;
- Triglav in night attire;
- Belopeška lakes - Strug (path of life / Via della Vita - Vevnica - Strug) and many others. Among them was very interesting description of pilgrimage path to Spain or Portugal, which unfortunately I can't find anymore.
Wish you many more interesting and enjoyable paths and ascents! Best - Lino
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Tadej12. 07. 2016 16:19:27
Turbo, thanks for the warning. I changed the title.
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UROS118. 07. 2016 07:15:16
This weekend with colleague David we did a successful ascent on Mont Blanc and also a successful fast descent.
Right on Friday evening after work night drive to Chamonix. Saturday ascent to upper hut at 3800m. Sunday ascent to summit and then descent to valley, and drive back to Maribor. Weather was excellent and conditions too. If anyone plans to go there hurry up. Pics say it all.
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bagi21. 07. 2016 11:36:54
Some questions have arisen regarding the approach to Mont Blanc, so this might be interesting for someone else too ...

The easiest approach route to Mont Blanc is from Chamonix. The highest starting point in this direction is the Gouter hut at 3815 m. Reservation is mandatory, payment is made right upon online registration. Link … http://refugedugouter.ffcam.fr/index.php?_lang=GB&alias=reservation&_charset=UTF-8html ..

Half-board (sleeping, dinner and early breakfast) costs around 100 €. If they allow you, you can sleep on the hallway floor for 80 €. Usually in peak season the hut is sold out a few days after opening, you get in when someone cancels. If you cancel the registration a few days before the deadline they take some euros for costs, return the rest. Some sleep in the wet and gear-overcrowded basement. Don't know if they pay anything for it. Gear except backpack not allowed in rooms.

Gouter hut is great, staff and food awful. Menus minimal and tasteless, constantly check how much you'll take. Prices high ... 1.5 l water is 6 €, 0.5 l beer is 9 €, various snacks 5 € each. They know exactly it's the highest starting point for MB and exploit it diligently. Sanitary water not available most of the day, taps dry. Apparently they open it briefly at 9 am. Tent camping at this height no longer allowed, mountain police checks everything.

Higher under MB there's also a bivouac, but it's extremely hard to reach in one day without acclimatization.

Big problem is also the serac (Grand Couloir) on the path from lower Tete Rousse hut to Gouter hut, which you must cross. There in the warm part of the day serious rocks fly constantly. In summer the municipality can close this only access in this direction even for several weeks. There have already been several fatalities here.

Much more friendly and cheaper is the lower Tete Rousse hut. Link … http://refugeteterousse.ffcam.fr/reservation.html ...

Here PZS membership helps, next to it there's space for tents too. Reservations in this hut not necessary, but recommended. Pay on the spot and not upon reservation. The issue is that you need to overcome much more elevation to MB summit than from upper Gouter hut. Many people still opt for this variant. First breakfast already at 2 am, second at 4 am and then another at 7 am

If possible take 3 days for ascent and descent for acclimatization. Of course possible in two, but there might be some problem due to lower oxygen amounts in the air regardless of good fitness. Drink as much water as possible and some Lekadol for headache. Some also get nausea, which can be a problem on ridges.

Besides usual gear and experience for winter approaches to mountains, additionally rope team and ski goggles due to wind are highly recommended. Everything depends on the conditions you'll have. Very good to have A PZS membership, rescue insurance and Coris. With us via PZS complete package about 100 € for the whole year. Otherwise you pay everything yourself there.

MB requires fitness, knowledge of winter walking on ridges and some luck. Without it no go nasmeh

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