UČKA:
We can schematically divide Istria into three belts. The southern part of its triangle is the lowest, and its feature is the red soil (terra rossa), which is why the name Red Istria suits it well. Above it is a slightly higher belt which due to the gray marl deserves the name Gray Istria. The highest is the third belt, White Istria, which rises above Gray Istria by a rocky step about 300-400 m high. From this step a spacious karst plateau stretches on which the bare limestone whitens. It continues further without a sharp border into the Slovenian karst. In this mountainous part of Istria we distinguish two quite different parts: Ćićarija in the NW and Učka in the SE. Their common feature is that they extend like a long mountain chain on that side of the Istrian triangle that connects it to the mainland, making Istria's connection with the world difficult. Ćićarija begins near Trieste, gradually rises from NW to SE to reach its greatest height right above the Bay of Rijeka
(Planik 1273 m). After that it begins to turn from the Dinaric direction southwards, continuing along the eastern Istrian coast with an even higher and more powerful mountain Učka. Although Učka and Ćićarija form a morphological unity, there are other differences between them besides the turning of the orographic axis. Učka itself has an unusual specificity: only its western side is considered Istria, while the eastern belongs to Liburnia (Liburnian Riviera). Unlike the Ćićarija plateau, Učka is a mountain of simple shape, with two steep slopes and a sharply outlined ridge. The ridge is highest at the beginning (Vojak, 1396 m), from where it gradually descends south through the peaks Brgud (906 m), Šikovec (779 m) and Sisol (883 m) all the way to the Plomin Channel, where it sinks into the sea. Between Učka and Ćićarija is the depression Poklon (922 m) over which the old road from Rijeka to Istria passes and it is the best natural starting point for ascent to both parts of the Istrian mountains. The Istrian mountains are of limestone structure and very rich in karst phenomena. Particularly interesting and diverse are the numerous speleological objects (there are several hundred of them). In climatic terms Mediterranean influences predominate, which is understandable given the proximity of the sea, but in the high belt snow deposits on shady sides can remain until May, hindering vehicle access to the top of Učka. The plant world is very diverse and thoroughly studied. In the lower part of the eastern slope native chestnut forests are significant and, thanks to the abundance of moisture, lush Mediterranean vegetation (laurel!). In the middle belt oak predominates, and in the highest beech. In the mentioned flysch zone around the top of Učka at an altitude of about 900 m there is a belt of gentle flower meadows (primrose, narcissus, asphodel, Carniolan lily, orchid, gentian etc.). On the rocky grounds, the so-called krasas, along with Illyrian elements quite a few Alpine admixtures appear
Veprinac - Poklon 1,30h - Vojak 1,15h)
APPROACH: to Veprinac - from Opatija by bus line no. 34 (from Rijeka to Opatija line 32), - from Rijeka to Veprinac by bus, with transfer in Matulji, - from Rijeka by own transport through Matulji (12 km); the road to Veprinac branches off l. 200 m from the central square and church in the direction of Ljubljana, by own transport Rijeka bypass, from it road to Tunnel "Učka" and at 8. km exit r. (only exit) 2 km to Veprinac, - from Opatija by pedestrian path from Slatina bathing place (between hotels "Palace" and "Bellevue"), from where by stairs Veprinački put to Nova cesta, by it l. 200 m, further by stairs Put za Slavići, bridge over the road that goes toward the tunnel, and through hamlet Travičići to village Tumpići under Veprinac (1,30 h), - from Opatija by pedestrian path from market to post office, there l. Kumičićeva ul. to Nova cesta, by it l. 50 m, ascent r. by stairs to settlement Zora, then through oak and chestnut forest by winding stairs (950 steps!) to village Zatka on road Matulje - Veprinac, 50', - from Ika via Mandići 3 h, - from Ičići via Poljana 3 h, - from Medveja through Lovranska draga 4 h.
VEPRINAC (519 m) (originally Leprinac, after the plant leprina that grows there) is a picturesque settlement situated like a town on a conical peak, with a wide view of the Bay of Rijeka. It developed on the foundations of a prehistoric castelliere. In 1507 Veprinac had its own city statute written in Glagolitic. Of the old city fortifications only the unusual city gate with three openings and parts of the wall in the "komuna" building are preserved. Under the rampart is the city loggia and Gothic chapel of St. Anne from 1442 with porch, slightly baroqueized with wall paintings. It consists of the upper acropolis-type part, next to the old castle and parish church of St. Mark (extraordinary viewpoint!), and the lower along the road Rijeka - Učka (18 km from Rijeka). From Veprinac further uphill by road. At the first intersection turn right (l. road descends to Ika) to hamlet Tumpići, where the road takes on mountain character (ascent up to 14%). After 3.5 km r. a branch turns off to the Istrian village Račja Vas, and after further 1.5 km the road turns r. pedestrian shortcut. The road to here constantly offers a nice view of the sea. The mentioned pedestrian shortcut comes out on the road a little above the turnoff for the hotel, and passes by the abyss Jama and a small spring with a puddle. One km after that turnoff the road arrives at Poklon.
POKLON (922 m) is a pass that divides Učka from Ćićarija. The old road from Rijeka and Liburnia to Istria passes over it (today the pass is replaced by tunnel "Učka"). The highest point of the pass is about 1 km further toward Istria (951 m), where there is a private inn with almost century-old tradition (formerly known under the name Peruč). The name Poklon comes from the fact that Istrian pilgrims on the way to Trsat bowed at that place because they first saw the tower of the church of Our Lady of Trsat there. From the flat area at Poklon, from the parking lot before the road enters the forest, there is an unusually beautiful view of the Croatian Littoral, Rijeka mountain hinterland and especially Rijeka when at night it swims in the sea of lights. Now there are three accommodation facilities at Poklon. The central and traditional point in the mountain is the Poklon pass because main paths lead here and from here the most attractive ascents are undertaken not only to Učka but also to Ćićarija. The nearest public transport and therefore nearest pedestrian approach is from Veprinac, from where it is 7 km by road to Poklon (1,30 h by shortcuts).
PL. DOM NA POKLONU (922 m) was built right next to the road, about 100 m from Pension "Učka" toward Istria, on the r. side. Because it is located at the pass between Učka and Ćićarija and at the crossroads of mountain paths, it serves as starting point for excursions to both mountains. It has kitchen, dining room, 14 beds in two rooms, running water and electricity. It is open and supplied on weekends. The facility is managed by PD "Opatija", information given by Marica Tomaško, tel. (051) 712-785.
PANSION I RESTORAN "UČKA" is at Poklon itself, on the site of the former barracks. It has 10 double luxuriously furnished rooms and always open restaurant (tel. (051) 299646, 603340). It is in private lease.
The shortest and most pleasant pedestrian ascent from Poklon to the top of Učka is the one that starts behind Pension "Učka". From here sharply uphill through forest in numerous turns on marked pedestrian path (25 turns) which crosses the asphalt road to the top three times, then passes by spring Topol (30' from pension), and half an hour later comes out again on the road at the big l. turn. By road l. 800 m to the end and past the RTV tower out of the forest, and by pedestrian path along the ridge another about 100 m to the top. The road ascent to the RTV tower starts about 1 km from the mountain home in w. direction at inn Peruč. Immediately after it turns l. at a sharp angle toward the top a winding branch of 6 km. The road is reserved for official purposes but not blocked by a barrier.
Lovran - Liganj - Poklon 3,30 h
To Kaluže as to Vojak, then r. between groves and fenced valleys, below Knezgrad (630 m, extraordinary view from the top!) and w. foot of Gorica (712 m), then ascent into dense beech forest. After one steeper descent, to meadows in the Rečina valley, across the stream again uphill into forest, then past fenced spring to forest road, by which r. to Poklon another 20', and further to Vojak another 1,15 h. The ascent can be shortened by 30' if the city bus line to the first stop in hamlet Lignj is used
Poklon - Scout hut - Vojak 2,30 h
From Poklon l. from Pension "Učka" by road below fenced water reservoir on which marking leads toward Lovran. Bypassing Vojak
from the l. side, it takes 1,15 h to the Scout hut in Dol. From there sharp ascent r. by marking from Lovran to Vojak
Poklon - Plas - Vojak or Suhi vrh 1,45 h.
From Poklon by road w. 20' to its branch for Vojak, further another 300 m where l. marked path branches off in gentle ascent through forest, w. slope of hill Plas (1288 m). After 1 h it arrives in the hinterland of Vojak to the crossroads at the pass under Suhi vrh: l. sharp ascent to Vojak, straight further descent to Lovran, r. down descent to Mala Učka, and r. up ridge 25' to Suhi vrh (1333 m; nice view of sea and Učka).
Poklon - Mala Učka - Vojak 2,45
From Poklon by road w. 30' to crossroads in village Vela Učka, where l. road of 4 km branches off to village Mala Učka (980 m). Before that we can right, at the place where the road comes out of the forest, for a few minutes to the top Krog (1001 m), with extraordinary view of Istria and across it to the Gulf of Trieste. MALA UČKA (980 m) was the highest village in Istria. Its inhabitants, known as Učkari, engaged in livestock breeding and were known for good cheese. In the last war the Italians and Germans burned the village to the ground on 30. 4. 1944 (22 houses and 45 farm buildings). After the war the Učkari moved out due to difficult economic conditions and today the village is completely empty, only a few houses converted into weekend cottages. Mala Učka was larger than Vela Učka (here these adjectives denote age: Mala means New, Vela means Old). The village is situated along the mountain stream Studena which divides it into two parts.
Below the church at the entrance to the village, nice meadows and orchards (cherries early July). To the village from the other side markings from Lovran and Mošćenica approach.
Lovran - Vojak 4 h
APPROACH: to Lovran from Rijeka by bus line no. 32 or own transport From Lovran several ascents lead to the top: across Lovranska draga, Knezgrad, directly to Vojak and across Poklon. Here also starts the Rijeka mountain transversal, so we will describe its section to Vojak here. LOVRAN is an ancient small town (3000 inh.) with clearly formed town core, with medieval tower and row of houses in baroque style. First mentioned in 7th century as Lauriana. Today it is known as a summer resort with numerous hotels, commercial and catering facilities, nice beaches and promenade along the sea all the way to Opatija (lungomare). Tourist society takes care of foreign traffic. Approach by bus from Rijeka 19 km, from Opatija 6 km. From Rijeka bus line 32 runs. From Trg slobode in the center of Lovran past the cinema westward, Brajdice street to stairs and by them between gardens uphill to hamlet Brega (20'). The path leads further again by stairs another 10' through grove to road Lovran - Lovranska Draga, crosses its turns twice, leaves l. church of St. Rok and when in village Lignj it reaches the road for the third time, turns by it l. a few minutes to the bus stop. Here one can also go by bus from Lovran to Lovranska Draga, thus saving 45' ascent. Bus line 36 runs from Lovran 12 times a day (on Sundays 8 times) from 5,40 to 22,30 h. Last returns at 19, 20,50 and 22,55 (on Sundays at 18, 20,05 and 22,55). Here the path leaves the road, climbs among gardens and in 10' arrives through hamlet Dindići to Ivulići. From the village l. along houses sharply uphill 30' to small plateau Kaluže (about 500 m), where the path forks: l. Vojak, r. Poklon. The path to Vojak passes through old forest all the way to the edge of Lovranska draga, then above it in gentle ascent toward its top, from where it climbs sharply in w. direction between fences into forest to the lower belt of meadows. Above it, again ascent through forest, it reaches the upper belt of meadows (about 1000 m) which provide an unforgettable experience with their late spring flora and nice view. From meadows a little l. to spring Tisve, then follows the steepest part of the path, in turns through forest, at the end among rocks, to the pass Vrata or Prohod (1216 m), and across it, across forest road, into Veli dol. Left edge of Dol to forest and through it r. edge of Mali dol to Sedlo (1250 m) between Suhi vrh and Vojak where there is an important crossroads: l. 20' to Suhi vrh, across the pass to village M. Učka (half-left) and V. Učka (half-right), and r. sharply uphill along the ridge of Učka another 20' in turns to Vojak. The ascent is very strenuous because it overcomes an altitude difference of 1400 m.
Medveja - Mala Učka - Vojak 5 h
APPROACH: to Medveja from Rijeka by bus line no. 32 From Medveja, a small bathing place 2.5 km south of Lovran, by stairs l. of house no. 10 (villa Paulina) 10' through gardens to hamlet Kali, then 50' sharp ascent to village Visoče, and behind the village past valley to cistern. From there r. along fence through groves to nice meadows Javoršci (2 h from Medveja), then 5' to Pajin dolac, then 45' sharp ascent through rocky terrain to small waterfall on stream and another 15' through forest to spring Šenčitve vode. Above the spring it comes out onto spacious and sloped Vela Ravan rich in water (springs fenced for Mošćenički water supply). Further l. slope of Argun through nice pine forest to mountain ridge and across small pass to Mala Učka, where we join the marking from Lovran